KX60 HELP! In need of rebuild!

[chris-mets]

Greatt! I have the best luck with dirt bikes! I go into the garage to try andstart my ktm and it starts and I ride it then a half hour later I go to try to startit and it doesnt start. I took the brand new spark plug out and cleaned it...took off the air filter and tried...choke didnt work...cracking the throttle didnt work...I know it is the carb Im pretty sure. Why must this happen!

[chris-mets]

Update: I took the spark plug out cleaned it with wd40..then it fired right up...then I went riding with my friend and it died and it wouldnt go back on...when I got home I cleaned with wd40 and started right back up? just a new spark plug? and what is a spark plug gap? I know I shold start a new thread buuut while theres this much peple in here its fine.

Chris

[Marco810]

carb tuning, you need to learn or have a shop do it for you

[chris-mets]

I researched a lot and I came to a point where its either the spark plug gap isnt adjusted correctly or the plug cord isnt putting out enough electrodes...the cord on the spark plug is very loose and doesnt pop on so Im gonna look at it tomorrow. Im gonna buy a little 5 dollar spark plug gapper tool. Thanks.

Chris

[Marco810]

good luck with that

[Caddy 16v]

or you could just get a new spark plug for that thing, should be about the same price and then you know if it's the plug or not!

[snoopjonnyjon]

Well if the spark plug wire cap doesn't clip onto the plug, there's your problem.

[chris-mets]

well I got needle nose pliers in the little cap so it kinda clips on...I contacted the guy I bought it from and he was running 40:1 in it and Im using the 32:1 that im using for my kx too so he said that might be the problem. Waiting for the engine to arrive in the mail today!

[chris-mets]

Hey guys.

The kx engine arrived beautifully thanks to Tuck! It looks buffed and polished  thats how good it looks! I put it in the bike and I cant get it to start. Everything is connected and every part is on. When I try to second gear drop it, it doesnt start and the back wheel doesnt lock, it just gets harder to push. The next day when I went back in the garage I saw a huge spill on the floor. Probably from leaving the gas on. I dont know if its oil or gas. This thing just wont start. I know its definetely not the engine cause Tuck did a beautiful job with that but possibly the carb or spark. Thanks guys.

Chris

[Friar-Tuck]

  Oy!  I was hoping she would fire in three kicks...

 First off what was spilled on the floor?
   
Here's a quick list off the top of my head.

  Filled the transmission     Check

Got the carb secured on the intake boot after removing the paper towel.   check

And secured the other side of the carb to the airbox boot

The carb cable was already to go, so next would be the fuel line to the carb.

 The wires I believe can only be hooked up one way, They are bullet connectors.
Make sure they snap into place and your cdi is mounted securely.  There is a ground wire that needs to touch clean metal. 

  The next thing we'll do is check for spark.
Pull the plug and use that spark plug I shipped with the engine, if you havent already tossed it.

if you don't have it. get a long screwdriver that you can put in the spark plug cap and hold near the engine while you kick.   Be Careful!  If you are not holding the plasic or rubberend of the screwdriver you will get zapped.
 
If you do have the plug,Snap it in the plug boot and hold it so its touching the metal on the engine somewhere.
Again, holding either the wire or plug cap is fine. You try to hold the metal on the plug while you kick and you get zapped!

 You're gonna have to give the engine a good coupla' kicks and watch the plug for fire.
We are looking for a bright blue spark, you will actually hear a "Snap" on a good spark.

 Check that and I'll stick with you.  I can only get to the batroom and the kitchen so I won't be far!
    T\o/
 

[chris-mets]

I believe it was gas. I am 90 percent sure it was gas. transmission...check. carb secured but you forgot to send the little clamp that clamps the reed part to the carb. fuel line connected to carb...check...Im gonna check the cdi and all the wiring after im done with the shelving in my garage. those two stator wires are connected and clicked in. I dont know what it is. I know that your suppose to check for spark by putting the spark plug tip against another peice of metal but that never worked for me. I have never seen a spark so I dont know. And why do you think the backwheel isnt locking when I put it in gear? TThanks.

Chris

[Friar-Tuck]

The carb boot clamp was on the boot and the reed block was bolted on, Check and see if the clamp didn't get snagged on the plastic bag and got pulled off.  See last pic (below) before she went "In The Box"

 I was retyping while you posted check above for spark test. 

 
  How much slack do you have in the clutch lever?
 
T\o/

[chris-mets]

I will check again for the carb boot clamp tomorrow. I dont know why it wont start. Do you know why the back wheel doesnt lock? Before I sent you my engine, the clutch mechanism in the case that you bought moved back and forth and when I received it it doesnt move so it was very hard to put the cord on. The clutch is very tight.

Chris

[Friar-Tuck]

Sorry, we had a power failure for a coupl hrs. go figure...

 The washer was missing between  the clutch release button, and the thrust bearing. I Fixed (or replaced) it.
     When you  hooked up your clutch it was adjusted to take up the slack (or space) the washer should have.   
All you had to do was adjust your clutch freeplay.
 
When you remove your cable the clutch arm moves quite freely, I polished it, and the corner of arm that cams over the release button.

What you have right now is a clutch that is always applied or Slipping.
 
  It's a good thing the engine didn't start.
 
   You would have fried the clutch!

So Step by Step:

 Get a crescent wrench and open it to fit the clutch arm. Don't use Channel locks, pliers or vice grips, it digs into the clutch arm and leaves sharp edges.  I filed them down so you wouldn't get cut.

 Apply pressure and remove the cable. (towards the little Perch that holds the adjuster)

WE have to start over. 
  Loosen the nuts on the clutch cable at the little perch and let all the slack out.

Unwind or put back all the slack available in your clutch lever at the perch.

Now you should be able to hook up your clutch cable.

We are gonna adjust out most of the freeplay at the cable near the clutch arm or the bottom end of the cable.
That way you can quickly adjust the lever if you need to later up top.

Check your Clymer for the amount of clutch freeplay and dial it in.

Lock the cable in at the bottom there are usually two nuts 10 or 12 mm. 

  Tuck\o/
   

[chris-mets]

No problem.

I have a crescent wrench or as I know it as called an adjustable wrench :p

I dont really understand what I have to do. Do I have to buy a washer? cause the cable and everything is attached. are you saying that the case that you had to replace has to be taken off and worked on?

Chris