Here are some details for this kickstand. It was nice to have Rick's design to look at when I built mine. Hopefully someone will look at Rick's & mine and come up with another one. I have about 300 miles on it so far with no problems. The only weak point I have found (so far) is where I welded the pivot to the aluminum pipe. I used 3/8" aluminum for the pivot and it is OK but could be stronger. You can bend it if you try. I don't think I could lean my bike on it to lube the chain. If I was to build another, I think I would use the 1/2" aluminum flatbar that Rick used on his to simplify the fabrication. So far I haven't built built a safety catch since there is no movement and the sidepanel traps it enough so it can't fall down if the spring broke. My sidepanels curl in a bit so I have to fold it/unfold it by hand. The oversized foot is really nice. Happy building!. I will be happy to answer any questions. Cam.
Materials List:
mount plate - 4"x1/4" 316SS flatbar, 7" long
kickstand - 3/4"x 16" thickwall aluminum pipe (I used 3/4" aluminum rigid electrical conduit)
kickstand foot - 1-1/2"x2-1/2"x 1/4" aluminum plate
kickstand pivot - 2"x3"x1/2" aluminum plate ( I used 3/8" which is not quite tough enough)
piovot stop - 6mm allen bolt
pivot bolt - 1/2" x 1" titanium or other with nut on the back(I shaved the head to clear the spring)
spring - KTM or other
top spring mount- 1-1/2"x1/4" SS bolt
Base Plate:
It is best to start with a cardboard template (template.jpg). Cut the
rough carboard shape, cut out each mounting hole in turn and install the bolt so that they all line up nicely.
A good way to mark the holes is to tap the cardboard lightly
(over the hole) with the rounded end of a ball peen hammer so it marks a round crease
on the inside of the template. With the template bolted on the bike, mark the outline of the frame
on the back side of the template. Mark the final cut line, parallel to the frame outline, giving a further 1/4"clearance from the frame. Mark the pivot hole center and trim the outline of the template to it's final shape.
Transcribe the template onto the 4" flatbar and cut the rough outline. Drill the three mounting holes and test fit. Some hole filing may be required. When the plate mounts nicely, do the final outline shaping with a file (kpcutside.jpg). Cut the bend line and bend approx 15 degrees (kpcutprofie.jpg).
Footpeg mounts:
Cut 2ea 1-1/4"x1" pieces (pegbracket.jpg). Sandwich them together and drill a 3/8" footpeg pivot hole.
The final hole size (larger) is drilled after welding to align the holes. Bolting the the 2 plates together while shaping them helps to make them identical.
Kickstand:
The pivot inserts into the 3/4" pipe. The pivot hole is threaded and a 1/2" nut on the back locks the pivot bolt.
It is best to mock up the kickstand a few times before any welding. I must have done this 20 times or more. To get the foot/floor angle right, with the pivot inserted into the pipe and all bends done, stand the bike on it. Using the thickness of the kickstand foot, mark the floor angle all the way around the pipe and cut the pipe. I cut my pipe 2 or 3 times before I was happy with the resting angle of the bike. I used the triangle stand as a
guide for bike position. (ksfoot.jpg, ks_pivot_side.jpg pivot.jpg kickstand_end.jpg)
Welding:
Welding stainless steel is easier than mild steel. Buy special SS rod and use 20% less heat. The flux coating pops off by itself when it cools (Wear glasses). Weld the bend, filling in the largest gap with small ss scrap. Bolt the 2 finished footpeg mount plates to the footpeg pivot using a 3/8" bolt, position on the base plate and mark (use the stock mount to eyeball the angle). Tack weld the upper plate in position. Remove the footpeg and 2nd plate and final weld the 1st plate, after checking that the angle is correct. Reattach the footpeg and 2nd plate and tack weld the 2nd plate into place. Remove footpeg and final weld. You may have to do some grinding so the footpeg rotates smoothly. Either grinding or some weld under the footpeg stop will adjust the final peg angle (ksside.jpg).
Polishing:
A strip of scotchbrite pad in a drill or minigrinder works great. For a tool, cut the head and threads off a long (6") 1/4" bolt then hacksaw a 1" slot lengthwise in the shaft. Put long strips of scotchbrite in the slot, and wind them in the direction of grinder rotation and polish away. Best to do it outside as it is a bit messy.
Spring:
I used an old 1979 RM400 kickstand spring I had been saving (for this?). A new longer KTM spring would be better (longer) then you could also measure the proper extended length as used on a bike. Drill & tap the top mount hole at the 1/2 way mark in the kickstand travel arc. Cut the bolt off flush with the backside and tack weld in place on the front. The bottom spring mount is just a 1/8" hole in the pipe.
Hints:
1. use a drillpress for all holes
2. grind the final kickstand travel stops with the stand mounted on the bike (so you don't go too far like I did)
3. weld slowly and let it cool down lots so you don't warp the mount plate.
4. install the 6mm stop on the pivot AFTER making the mounting plate. It is much easier to drill the hole in the right spot rather than file the mount plate for hours (like me) to make it fit.
5. I was too lazy to find a metric bolt so I replaced the chain roller bolt with a 5/16" x 3-1/2" SS bolt trimmed to 3-3/16" and drilled out the frame hole slightly (mostly for alignment). A thin washer under the plate may be required for spacing.
