Favorite Self-Build mods for the KX500

[KXcam22]

I started this thread so everyone could boast about their home made modifications/parts they have built for their K5 and maybe provide some details, pictures or drawings. Being an engineer, I love building things for my KX (even when it would probably make more sense to buy it). I have seen some pretty impressive mods described here.  Here is a partial list:

- skid plate
- shark fin
- reed spacer
- power now
- fork guards
- dog bones
- pipe guards

Paul, Rick is you could provide details on best way to send/attach pictures etc. Thanks. Cam.

[mikesmith]

Ive done all the above (except dog bones)but add radiator guards,frame guards,pipe mounts,frame guessets,peg wideners,carb vent canister,rear caliper guard,run the front brake line CR style,chain guide,sub frame protecter from the chain,and lengthend my clutch arm and rerouted the cable,cleaned up the porting,filled my bars with expanding foam,silencer plug for washing the bike and a lift stand.These are all the do-it-myself mods Ive done besides those listed above that I can think of for now.

[KXcam22]

Mike,
  Yea. Looks like I missed a bunch.  I'd be very interrested in some details on the brake line reroute. Thanks. Cam.

[gowen]

mike, can you tell a diffrence in the vibes with the expanding foam?

[mikesmith]

Gowen,yeah it helped, but my bike never vibrated that bad to begin with.I was thinking of silicone in a caulking gun might be good to try(and cheap),but since its heavier than the foam I would think just filling the ends of the bars would work instead of the whole thing like with the foam,but I never tried the silicone because Im happy with the foam.

[Paul]

I started this thread so everyone could boast about their home made modifications/parts they have built for their K5 and maybe provide some details, pictures or drawings. Being an engineer, I love building things for my KX (even when it would probably make more sense to buy it). I have seen some pretty impressive mods described here.  Here is a partial list:

- skid plate
- shark fin
- reed spacer
- power now
- fork guards
- dog bones
- pipe guards

Paul, Rick is you could provide details on best way to send/attach pictures etc. Thanks. Cam.

Click the "Add an Attachment" button in the Attachment Posting Control Panel.

[mikesmith]

KXcam22,I rerouted the front brake line almost 2 years ago and have had no problems with it and it feels more responsive than stock.I used a braided front brake line for a KDX,removed the stock front brake line mount from by the front axle and counter sunk (so the bolt heads dont have any chance of touching the fork leg) from the back side of the fork guard some mounting bolts for the old brake line mount.I cut the front loop off the plastic fork guard guide so it would allow the brake line mount to slide by as the fork goes through its travel.I used the stock brake line metal guide off the front caliper by flipping it over and safety wired the cable to it.I hope this makes since because its cheap and easy to do,I only spent money for the brake line and used a KDX because one of these days I plan on running a light and want the line to clear it.If your not running a light the brake line from the KDX is a little longer than youd need,but its not bad (the shorter the brake line the better the feel/response) so you need a line from a bike that runs the CR style already,like the new KX's.

[kawdude]

I took 1"x1/8" flat bar steel and welded it around my stock pegs for a wide peg.  Works great.

Dogbones use same 1/8" steel flat bar to lower the bike with the Rick's help.  Worked great!

Getting ready to mill a shorter kickstart lever.

Electric Start button.  Just the button.  I'm still waiting for someone to design the rest!!!

[toddwunsch]

I put expanding foam in my new Pro Taper bars and plugged the ends with Scotts bar ends.  That seemed to help a little.  Later on, I purchased Tag X2 bars and installed the FASST weighted bar ends on those.  No foam or weigted material in the bars.  That made a larger difference.  I feel that weighting the bars, particularly on the ends, is your best bet to reduce vibration.  

I also mfg'd my own Power Now.  Not too difficult.  I even lowered mine to just below the half point to give me a little better response on the 0 to 1/3 throttle range.  Does it work better.....  I'll probably never know unless I purchase a new carb and install a Power Now right in the middle...  But it definitely works better than stock.  I really appreciate the response on hill climbs when you're coming off of jumps, double clutching, etc..

[mikesmith]

Fill the ends with silicone from a caulking gun for a cheaper way.

[gowen]

I tried the expanding foam in my Pro Tapers and it worked! I honestly don't feel much of any vibes in the bars now which is great. Using Pro Tapers and the Fast Pro solid mounts did most of the job. The expanding foam seemed to help the rest. Thanks Mike

[KXcam22]

Here's a simple sharkfin I built for free.  A piece of 3/8 aluminum welded to the stock brake caliper holder.  A few more holes may have made it look nicer(but function is first).  When I removed it today for the photo, I found a huge gouge in it (from last weekend) and it was bent in to almost touch the disc. I guess it's doing it's job!. Cam.

[KXcam22]

This contraption may look stupid but is quite handy for those with too many bikes in a too small workshop (6 in mine).  It is a lowboy.  Made of scrap 2x8s, 3/4ply and 4 casters from a surplus store. Your bike stand fits inside (aluminum or milkcrate) and with a bike on it you can easily push it around to store your bike in a corner or against the wall to make room for other work.  I stack my bikes against the wall and just wheel out the one I'm working on. It adds about 1-1/4" extra height to the stand and is strong enough for me and my bike (450+) lbs.  Cam.
ps. sorry for the huge picture in the last post.  Whats a good size?

[KXcam22]

Here's a dollar-store fork oil level tool thats served me well for the last 10 years.  Built from a small lab funnel, clear tubing, metal tube (level measurements marked on it with a file) and grandpa's old ear syringe.  You set the level by sliding the inverted funnel up and down the metal tube and sucking out the excess oil with the bulb. Cam.
ps. Sorry for the blurry picture.

[KXcam22]

Here's a typical reed spacer.  My goal was to make it in under an hour.  Used 1/4" drill, drill press, saber saw (10tpi blade), file & 1/2" alum scrap. Traced a gasket and cut out the inside by drilling consecutive holes around the permieter (inside the lines).  Shaped outside with saber saw.  It's a bit ugly on the inside (I need to learn to drill inside the lines !) but it doesn't show and shouldn't affect flow. Cam.