Welding Setup...?

[Sharc]

What type of welding rig do you need to weld gussets and footpeg extensions to MX frames...? I did some old school arc welding back in high school. Dont know a TIG from a MIG now...
Whats a decent low cost setup? And do I need 220V power...?
Also, my son is interested in sand rails and such. Does that require a much heavier duty setup for frame repairs...?

Thanks

Sharc

[fast500#12]

i suggest at least 220v it is easier to dial in and is more consistant than the cheap 120v jobs. 120v work ok but i highly recomend that you practice with it alot befor you use it on your frame if you get one of them. as far as what  set up for what  application, tig welders have easily changed out wire spools so you can switch from aluminum to steel or what have you. all you need to do is adjust it to the setting that work best for you for the type of matterial you are welding.they are also cheaper than migs. migs are the best in my opinion but they are  also the most expesive. with welders it is important to remember, you really do get what you pay for. if you get on ebay you could you could probably find a pretty good one of a fair price. they are on there from time to time.

[Woody223]

Not being trying to be an ass but you have TIG "Tungsten Inert Gas, aka. Gas tungsten Arc Welding", and Mig "Metal Inert Gas, aka. Gas Metal Arc Welding" backward.  Mig welders have changeble spools for different metals. Tig is in my opinion like Oxy,Acetylene welding with a foot pedal.

Most people will not want to pay for an expensive 220volt MIG or TIG machine for occasional use. On top of price there is the size issue most good MIG and TIG machines are big and bulky so unless you have a good size shop think about a smaller more affordable machine.  There are a few good 110volt, MIG welders out there, my personal favorite is the Lincoln Electric SP135A. The ease of transport and the ability to use it d**n near anywhere is a great factor in favor of a 110volt machine.

If you can afford the price have the space and want a steep learning curve then a full size 220volt TIG machine is the way to go.

Woody223

[Sharc]

Great info guys. I'll start looking around and price things out.

Thanks

Sharc

[Rick]

I used a stick welder for years on jeeps, sand rails, trailers, motorcycles, etc. with good results.  However, after using several wire feeds over the years (including a 110volt model which I hated), I purchased a wire feed last year.  WOW!  I regret not spending the money a long time ago.  I opted for the lowest price 220 unit available, and purchased a Miller.  I use both flux core wire and shielding gas, but find the flux core wire works fine for most applications.  You just need to clean off the splatter.  I also weld aluminum without the extra controls, and after practice, can work with aluinum as thin as 18".  

Spend the extra money on the lowest priced 220volt wire feed, as you won't like the 100volt unit.

Rick

[mikesmith]

I have both a 220 and 110,and for the welding you want to do Id suggest a Hobart Handler 120(not the cheaper one).Its a decent price,no wiring 220 in the garage,reliable,and welds GREAT!Ive had one for 10 years no problems,and you can weld aluminum (but TIG is the best for that).A TIG is best,but Id suggest having a MIG first,learning on it and if you want to move up buy a TIG as your second welder.And if you dont get the Hobart Handler Id suggest a Miller for any thing else,just be honest for what your going to use it for and how often,my 2 cents.

[kawdude]

I also weld aluminum without the extra controls, and after practice, can work with aluinum as thin as 18".  Rick

Rick what setup are you using on mig for aluminum?

I have a older 220 Miller Mig that works well on most.  I also second the remarks on the 110 Mig welders.  I bought one first and used it but burned it up.  No matter what you buy pay attention to the duty cycle.  The 110 version had something like a 20% duty cycle which means you use it 2 minutes out of 10 and let it cool for 8 minutes.  I didn't know that and the unit basically went up in smoke.

[fast500#12]

  oops i always get those backwards, have for years. any way you still get what i mean i hope. thanks for the correction woody.

[Rick]

Actually, all I did was purchase a roll of solid aluminum .35 wire (and argon) and run the wire through the wand.  I found that when welding alumium you have to run your wire speed up pretty high as compared to steel.  For 1/8", I use wire speed of 75 and power of 1.  Sounds odd, but it works to get that balance between putting material on top of the work surface, and getting it to penetrate without deforming the work material.  For 5/16 or 3/8 aluminum, I use 95 wire speed and power setting of 3-3.5.  I have also found that I need to allow the aluminum wire to protrude a little more from the end of the gun, but with the shielding gas at 35, this has not been a problem.

Ah yea, I read my first post, and notice I put 18".  Hmmm.  That should be 1/8".  Drrrr.

Rick

[mikesmith]

Not that Im pushing the Hobart,but I havent had a problem in 10 years of use and use it way more than my 220,my Father in Law used one in his body shop.What kind of 110's were you guys using that burned up so fast?

[Rick]

I think the one I used was a Lincoln.  I guess it worked fine for light duty, but if you want to build anything of substance, the 110 is just too light for the job.  While I have a stick welder, I really like the wire feed, as you don't have to keep changing sticks.  I use the large rolls of wire with the adapter so I don't have to deal with changing rolls very often.  This unit I have also has a safety just in case you exceed the duty cycle.  However, I have worked several large projects that required welding for 13-14 hours a day and most of a 10 pound roll of wire, and just the time between pulling the trigger was sufficient to keep from hitting the duty cycle limit.

Of course, when you get past 5/16 material, the unit I have is too small, so its time to switch to either a bigger wire feed or a stick welder, especially if you are welding anything that will have stress factors.

As a final note,  I am not a welder by trade, and have never had any formal training.  I just started welding in my teens, and enjoy it so much I have retained the skills.  Since I have always been one of the top welders and fabricators at the various companies where I have worked, I have peridically closed my office for a week or two to assist with large projects.  My interaction with other employees takes on a completely different personality when the see the guy who signs all the checks in work cloths with a welder in his hand.

Good luck in the selection process.

Rick

[kawdude]

Can the aluminum wire be pushed through the cable or do you need to have a spoolgun.

[mikesmith]

Both a spool gun (can be hard to control,gets heavy) or you use a differnt liner in the cable,but you have to keep a straight/smooth line in the cable to keep the wire from sticking/kinking.Cobra makes a small light gun that pulls instead of pushing the cable and I've seen the guy tie the cable in a loose knot with no kinking.But its made for prouduction use like in building boats ect.,for how much it cost I'd just get a TIG.And like Rick says he's welding 13 or so hours a day,he need's a big welder.Be honest on what your doing with it,small welder for small jobs,big welder for big jobs!What do you do for a living Rick?Not trying to be nosey,but like me you seem to be a do-it-your-selfer!

[KXcam22]

I'm using an older 220V A/C lincoln (got it free).  Works quite well with the correct rod (7028 & 6013).  I run it out of my dryer outlet.  The 220v wire feed is definately the way to go (I should do that).  For hobby welders like myself, I found the new auto-tinting electronic welding helmets increased my quality quite a bit.  They are getting cheaper too at around $200 CAD. Cam.

[Rick]

Been out a few days, so posting a little late.

For aluminum, I just ran my .35 wire through the same liner as my steel wire.  This means I can switch back and forth by just swapping the wire and changing the polarity (takes about 5 minutes).  I also pay little attention to the cable staightness, and never had a sticking problem.  It is important to note that this is not the recommended setup, but it seems to work just dandy.  Now, if I were going to aluminum weld a lot, I would no doubt prefer a different strategy, but for periodic aluminum work, all is good...

Rick