Author Topic: On the subject of engine work (Read 20623 times)

delphipro5 · « **on:** February 09, 2011, 03:45:02 PM »

I just today got my windowed wiseco piston in From JFAB. Long awaited, but worth it! Nice looking piece. And it got me thinking about the engine build I am about to undertake. Which I have not been focusing on as of late because I have been working on the other odds and ends of the build. (reference: Monument to the 2-stroke - to see build). So I am now thinking of all that is to be done and it is A LOT. I am not too sure how much of this I am really going to be able to do myself. I want my crank balanced by someone who REALLY KNOWS THESE THINGS, and I want to replace all bearings and seals in the whole thing if possible, my rod checked to make sure It is useable, all other components checked for service limit (kips valves ect.,ect.) and replaced if necessary, want the kips bolt mod put in. the windowed piston came with rings that are NOT to be used with chrome plated cylinders, what type of plating is on these cylinders? Will I have to hone or deglaze this cylinder? Or drill lubrication holes on the side of this piston?? Jeez even the install instructions that came with the piston are too much for me! I NEED SOME DIRECTION!
Also, I need to find a good engine guy around my area that I can truly trust to handle doing all this for me, unfortunately, I have not yet found one though I really haven?t been looking too hard lately either. But I was hopeing to be able to do the final assembly of it myself, what type of assembly lube should you use and how do you keep from wrecking the whole thing the first time you try and start it? I would just hate to spend all this $$ on an engine rebuild and blow it up the first time out that?s all.

And what about the ignition? Should I be looking for a new aftermarket one or should I use the one I got? How do I know it?s good? I think I should get a new coil at least I?m sure they weaken over time right?

To Do:
Engine: Complete engine rebuild
   Bottom end rebuild
   Crank balancing
   Weichman treatment(compression release)+ ?Basic: Mill, polish dome and recut squish band?
   Kips bolt mod.
   Barnett clutch kit
   Flywheel weight
   Reed spacer
   v-force2 reed kit
   CPW 39.5 PWK CARB.
   Wiesco piston-windowed
new coil

Lemme know what ya?ll think

Motorrad · « **Reply #1 on:** February 09, 2011, 04:09:32 PM »

Why doubble base gasket and thick head gasket?

Planning a zero deck motor? Who is going to cut your cylinder?

Make sure you debur and taper the edges of the port window.. Mine came from Jerry sharp....

These rings are fine in nikasil. Differant than chrome bore

kaw rider · « **Reply #2 on:** February 09, 2011, 04:27:05 PM »

I would check your ignition stator spec, 9 out of 10 are out of spec.

I would do a full rebuild on crankshaft.

Check your intake bridges for cracks

Check for worn crankcase main journal wear.

If you are going to stack base gasket you will lose exhaust port timing.

Rd · « **Reply #3 on:** February 10, 2011, 12:20:45 AM »

Quote

I would check your ignition stator spec, 9 out of 10 are out of spec.

Kawrider
Other than resistance check and a visual inspection, is there another test for the integrity of the stator?
My stator ohmed out in specs and came from a running motor.
Thanks Roger

DoldGuy · « **Reply #4 on:** February 10, 2011, 01:16:40 AM »

Quote from: Rd on February 10, 2011, 12:20:45 AM

Quote
I would check your ignition stator spec, 9 out of 10 are out of spec.

Kawrider
Other than resistance check and a visual inspection, is there another test for the integrity of the stator?
My stator ohmed out in specs and came from a running motor.
Thanks Roger

Roger,
If your Stator measures within Specs, yours is the One out of Ten.
DoldGuy

kaw rider · « **Reply #5 on:** February 10, 2011, 02:55:33 AM »

RD
What year is your bike and what spec did you use.

sandblaster · « **Reply #6 on:** February 10, 2011, 05:48:03 AM »

Hey Kawrider
What are the specs for a 00 K5?

dave916 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 10, 2011, 06:38:08 AM »

i think it should be standard or thin head gasket with two base gaskets

kaw rider · « **Reply #8 on:** February 10, 2011, 08:04:36 AM »

i think its around 170-230 ohms, doug knows the spec too. i can check tonight.

DoldGuy · « **Reply #9 on:** February 10, 2011, 09:34:14 AM »

Quote from: kaw rider on February 10, 2011, 08:04:36 AM

i think its around 170-230 ohms, doug knows the spec too. i can check tonight.

153-230 Ohms: Black/White to Black/Yellow
7.9-11.9 Ohms: White/Red to Black/Yellow

These specs are for the 1989 (with big flywheel) all the way up to the 2004. They have had a change in part #s, but the values are still the same on all. The Clymer book has these listings & confirmed the OEM Kawi manual does too.

RD, Very curious as to what your Stator measures as I have had measurements taken on ALOT of these & as Pauly stated 9 out of 10 were out of range. My 2001 stator visually looks almost new but it measures @ 330 Ohms

DoldGuy

alward25 · « **Reply #10 on:** February 10, 2011, 11:09:47 AM »

I have a 2001 stator that could be up for grabs that is in fantastic shape. Coil and CDI too. PM me if you are interested.

sandblaster · « **Reply #11 on:** February 10, 2011, 12:42:24 PM »

Thanks DoldGuy.
I have recorded that info for future use

Rd · « **Reply #12 on:** February 10, 2011, 01:42:24 PM »

Quote

RD, Very curious as to what your Stator measures as I have had measurements taken on ALOT of these & as Pauly stated 9 out of 10 were out of range. My 2001 stator visually looks almost new but it measures @ 330 Ohms

Stator came from a 1990 K5 just measured it a few minutes ago with a Fluke 77 DVM

Black White to Black Yellow 181 ohms

White Red to Black Yellow 9.5 ohms

Quote

RD
What year is your bike and what spec did you use.

1990. Used the same spec as Doldguy from the last page of the 1990/91 supplement to the K5 manual.

I finally got lucky . Usually everything I take apart is out of spec or broken

delphipro5 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 12, 2011, 10:54:00 AM »

Yup, I have not checked my stator yet but will very soon.
On the gasket thing, it's old info from something I read somewhere that goes like this ( ". I would then go to the optional thick head gasket. This will reduce the compression and again reduce the hit in the powerband. You could take it a step further and put in an extra base gasket, this will again reduce compression slightly and raise the port timing, it will again slow or smooth the transition of power and give you some top end over rev. Next, I would chuck the stock pipe and buy a FMF Gnarly pipe. Before installing the pipe there is a crush ring that goes up into the cylinder...buy four of them and install them with the pipe. This is one of the best mods you can make to the bike. You'll have stronger power but it will be smoother and more controllable than you would ever believe!" ) SO after thinking about it...... I think I will be useing the standard head gasket since I will be tuning the carb and head to run U4.4 I don't want to mess with lowering the compression any. But I do think I agree with the double base gasket. I WILL be useing the stock pipe, BUT does any one get what he is doing with the 4 crush ring thing?? should I do that? If any one wants to read the whole thing I still have it on file as- Detuning a KX500 for trails. let me know if you are interested in reading the rest of it.

kaw rider · « **Reply #14 on:** February 12, 2011, 11:04:12 AM »

if you are trail riding stay with pump gas or a pump gas mix with some high octane. U4.4 will empty your pocket fast.