Maintenance & Technical > KX500 Original
Jetting!!! Again and again and again!
gowen:
--- Quote from: kawdude ---
Have you seen this link?
http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/carbtuning.html
--- End quote ---
Wow, that's some good stuff, what is funny, I used to basicly hoard that information from justkdx and dirtrider. I had, awhile back a '87 KDX200, then purchased a '95 kdx200, and fallowed the tuning information religiously. Good stuff and information, thanks!
Paul:
Pull the needle out an check which one is in there. You might be running the leaner needle, if so get a stock one. Either way try moving the needle higher in the circlip. The pilot is going to effect the idle, the needle the mid-range the main mid and top. Keep increasing the main until it starts to falter then drop it one. The 58 main, some needle work and a cleaning and I'll bet that thing will be awesome ;)
kawdude:
Cool! I think I'll follow your lead on the 170M. In reading your post it sounds like initially you thought it was rich but by adding the 170 you've made it richer so I'll assume that now you're thinking it was originally to lean??? That may be my issue as well. When riding and using the new main was the engine smooth midway and up? Paul's comment above regarding the 180m jet surprised the heck out me...seems huge. However, he's the expert and his comments are always worth noting.
Mine did not idle with the original 58p but when I installed the 55p I could get it to idle after screwing with the air screw. I'm not saying it idles well though!
kawdude:
--- Quote ---
Keep increasing the main until it starts to falter
--- End quote ---
Paul, can you describe term falter? I understand the definition but what will the engine do when it "falters"? Are there any other tell-tales signs of the engine faltering? I'm asking just to be clear. I do understand that a ~1" stream of mix shooting out the silencer would be bad and past "faltering"!!!
ruputa:
Hey Kawdude...I'll buy your KX from you for $100 bucks. hehehe
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