Mud and water in my engine :(

[oic0]

Long story short, the bike fell over in some mud and water. Me knee popped out so I couldn't stand up to get it out of it right away. It stayed half submerged for a minute. It died right away but after that I tried to start it for a while. Wouldn't start and compression felt low. Tried again today and compression was back but wouldn't start. Anywho, I decided to drain the carb to see if it had water in it. There was mud in the bottom of the drain... NOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!

Took off the air filter, which looked clean, and there is an inch thick of mud inside the air boot.

Ive already pulled the cylinder off I just don't know what to do now Pipe also had at least a liter of water in it.

All ive done so far is pull it apart and pour premix in the bottom end to keep the bearings from rusting. The premix has a muddy tinge to it as it filled to the surface.... Whole thing sucks so bad it makes me sick. What do I do?


P.S. does nikasil rust? this cylinder keeps rusting in front of my eyes.

[500freak]

if i was you i would pull the bottem end out. find a parts washer and flush it all out. the cylinder will pit so i would spray the hole top end with wd-40. also parts wash that too.

[kaw rider]

pull the igntion cover and dry flywheel and stator. Drain gas out of carb and gas tank and install fresh gas. drain oil out of transmission and install new oil. Pull start bike with spark plug out. And then install acouple of drips on fuel down the spark plug hole. And try and start the motor and then fog the motor with oil. That what we do with jetski motor when they sink.

[oic0]

What about the dirt in the bearings? have to split the cases, take crank out and find a varsol table or swish it in diesel? Ive never split cases before except on the RD which is way easier...

[hughes]

The correct way to get your engine back up and running is to split the cases and clean each component in the bottom end. The crank main bearings should be flushed with cleaner along with the big end rod bearing. Clean and flush each crank case cover. Piston/rings/wrist pin/wrist pin bearing should be cleaned with contact cleaner. You may even need to remove the power valves from the cylinder and properly flush and clean the cylinder. As other as mention is make sure your carb is clean and don't over look the reed cage assembly it will need to be clean. Your bike is 2000 model right? Given the fact the engine is completely apart at this point if you can afford it maybe this would be a good time to install new main bearings, rod kit, top end, or even cylinder plating. If you?re going to reuse all the existing parts then proper cleaning is the only way to go. I don't know how many engines you have been into but I can tell you I've seen enough to ensure you that you don't want to start and run that engine unless it's been completely apart and cleaned. The dirt will shorten the life of everything in the bottom end and wear the plating on the cylinder and then you'll be taking it apart again for rebuild. Do it right the first time and I think it will save you some down time later.

[oic0]

Update:

Took me a little while huh

Tore down the top end. As I got in there I realized there is no dirt, its all pure clay. Makes sense in Louisiana. Good part is clay is pretty easy to clean out and has no grit to it. Its actually pretty soluble. Anyhow, cleaned it all by hand with WD-40, tooth picks, Q-tips, and paper towels. Took a LONG time but I had nothing better to do so I made the whole thing spotless. Bottom end didn't have near as much as I thought in it. I filled it with kerosene and worked the rod by hand. It all slung frothed out. Add more, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat. It really only took two or three times since clay doesn't fight too hard, the rest was just to be sure. I put it all back together and it started pretty easily. Chugged out smoke till the last bits of WD-40 and kerosene were clear then ran good. I had a hard hard time judging the compression since my legs are in much better shape than they were last I had it running so I'm going to compression test it first chance I get. It wasn't hard to start though and it was running pretty crisply so I have high hopes.   
I made a video of starting it but I looked too dorky and my underwear showed a few times, so pic it is!


Next up, fork seals, spokes, new front tire, lube linkage and swing arm bearings, ponder the functional yet stripped oil drain plug, and have old man weld me something to guard the sub frame from the chain.

[jonny500]

i had a kx 250 that i totaly submerged (i had to swim out) it was in for about 5 mins. i was miles from anywhere so had to sort it there and then. took the plug out and kicked it over to get water out of cylinder and bottom end. let it stand for while so the  fuel in the carb and tank settled. then took the drain plug out of the bottom of the carb and let all the water out until the fuel ran clean. anyway that got it going and after a bit of sputtering it rode home fine. did a bit of a service when i got it home oil, filter ect and was very pleased with my self. which is all good right, WRONG after a while the bike just went down hill. vibations loss of power ect as the the grit and grim did is work. the bike which had been the best i had owned was basically ruined after a while even after a rebuild in later months it was never the same. in hind site i would have striped to the last  bolt. dont mean to scare you i just dont want you to go through the same as me. think carefully my freind
good luck
john

[kwakman]

Its your call on pulling it down but a very small amount of dirt will wreck your main bearings, plating etc....wd40 is the best way to prevent rust, I usually coat everything metal after washing etc as it displaces the water and if it aint wet, it cant rust.The 500 cases are the first ones I have ever split, but if you have a modicum of mechanical apptitude and common sense, you'll be fine.If I can do it, you can.....

[Hillclimb#42]

kwakman, you are right that the wd40 displaces water. Its great for breaking down oxidation, and cleaning properties that is has. Unfortunately, it is corrosive. Its on the lable. Kinda surprised you are getting good results. Not trying to be a know-it-all. that was pointed out to me 30 years ago while cleaning guns.

[kwakman]

its a valid point.Compressed air is my favourite method of chasing the water away, but wd does the job if your away from your garage.

[oic0]

If there was a little hiding in there and my bearings go early, the bearings are probably 10+ years old anyway so I wouldn't be losing much off their lives. The only reason I didn't have the bottom end done was I couldn't find a local shop to do it at a reasonable price. I don't have the work space or tools to tackle that job myself.

I have yet to compression test it BUT it feels too easy to kick to me. Before it hit the mud I had just torn it down, all looked good and and it read 165psi when I put it back together. Now though it "feels" easier to kick to me even though the piston, rings, and bore didn't look any different than when I tore it down before. There were no streaks from dirt etc... it was an even glaze all around. I lightly took that off with a scotch bright pad. I can kick it in tennis shoes without fear for my shins. It runs great, has good snap. I'm hoping when I compression test it, it will just turn out to be the result of my new walking regiment I've been on to get in shape. I was in pretty lousy shape a year ago.

[oic0]

Finally got around to compression testing it (has only had one 30 min test ride on it since going together). I musta been high with joy before or something. It made MORE compression (maybe new gaskets were thinner?). Before ripping the bottom of my shoe off it made 170+psi with a dead cold cylinder. I'm surprised it doesn't ping. Thank god they sell real 93 octane down here.