2001 price

[Big Daddy J]

Hello fellas, I'm new to the forum, I'm looking for a KX 500---- found one on the local online classifieds, it's a 2001, ad says it's in great shape, pictures don't give alot of detail but I can tell it has aftermarket pipe, loooks like factory silencer, rear tire worn pretty goood (50% tread?). They want $2000 for it. Want to know what your guys opinion on the price is. Also is there anything specific to the KX 500's to look for as far as problems that aren't typical of all two stroke race bikes. I've wrenched and ridden for 10+ years, just haven't had any exposure to the 500's.

[Goat]

Welcome to the site. $2K is a pretty decent deal for an 01 K5 I think. I would look for cracks and or welds on the engine cases, check compression, and take a close look at the spark plug for signs of running lean. Ask what octane fuel they ran, what premix ratio they used, and what kind of premix oil. Always a good indicator as to how well they took care of it is the condition of the air filter. Hope this helps.

[Polar-Bus]

Hello fellas, I'm new to the forum, I'm looking for a KX 500---- found one on the local online classifieds, it's a 2001, ad says it's in great shape, pictures don't give alot of detail but I can tell it has aftermarket pipe, loooks like factory silencer, rear tire worn pretty goood (50% tread?). They want $2000 for it. Want to know what your guys opinion on the price is. Also is there anything specific to the KX 500's to look for as far as problems that aren't typical of all two stroke race bikes. I've wrenched and ridden for 10+ years, just haven't had any exposure to the 500's.

KX500's from that era will typically bring anywhere from $1800 up to as much as $2400, so you're right about the average.  Like ANY 2 stroke bike, there are TONS of issues to watch out for or you WILL get burned. I always suggest try to bring an experienced 2 stroke buddy as a second set of eyes to spot potential issues the the excited buyer might not see...

[BDI]

Two things I like to look at on a bike is the bottom of the frame, swingarm and the stator. People usually look at you like your nuts when you tell them you want to take the stator cover off. It's like this though If it looks like new inside i'm going to buy the bike but If it's all rusty and crusty it needed a new gasket anyway so theres no harm in pulling the cover. There's $800.00 in parts under that little cover, it's worth taking a look at before you buy. also you can grab the flywheel and see if it has exsesive crank end play and any oil in there probably means it needs main seals.

[bob larry]

Thats what I paid for mine.  2001.   Lasted 2 months or 10 rides and needs a whole top end.  Rebuilding top and bottom now. Be around $1000
So $2000 can turn into $3000  REAL fast.

Test the compression for sure.  Should be above 150psi. 

[oic0]

A lot of it depends on where you are. I didn't pay much for mine because I live in 4x4 mud quad territory. Not many dirt bikes and the ones there are, are mostly for kids and teens. A really big tall one thats a bear to kick and looks dated? yeah the guy was elated I offered 1k for a 2000. If I lived somewhere people appreciate dirt bikes though it would likely have been different. I had to quickly delete my CL listing right bellow his that was "Want to buy 99+ KX500 or CR500, Offering 2,000 depending on condition".... which also got no bites because no one around here has any. 

[flyingfitz]

If I was to do it again I think this one on ebay looks pretty good for the kind of riding I am doing.  Get a educated guess on the condition of the engine.  Cross your fingers and go for it. 

I wanted to resto a bike and paid $1k for mine. It ran good and was in pretty good condition.  I thought the engine would last another season but it did not.   I will have much more than the asking price of $2k for the ebay bike when I am done with mine but I will know exactly what I have and it has given me the project that I was looking for. 

Spending $2k for a well equipped bike with a solid top end is a much better option than spending $1k for one that just starts and runs IMO.  ebay Item number: 310224838192

Fitz

[flyingfitz]

After looking at that ad again, I kind of have that sinking feeling.  I will have at least a grand more than that in mine and still not have a kickstand!  Then again, the ebay bike doesn't have a Stewart motor!

Fitz

[Danger4u2]

I did the "buy it now" a few years back on an 01 K5 in near new condition.  $3500 and a 17hr round trip drive.

http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,4784.45.html


If the motor is worn the forks, shock, swing arm/wheel bearings can't be far behind.
Get the best one you can find for the money you have.  It took me 3 or 4 years to find the 01 I ended up buying.
I don't think you can make a $1000 dollar K5 dependable and safe for less than $1500 to $2500.  No matter what you do you will still have worn looking parts on the $1000 dollar bike when you get done.
I'm talking about a bike that is only worth $1000 dollars not a guy that has a bike worth $2500 but he's in a bind for money and will let it go for $1000.

[Big Daddy J]

Thanks for all the input guys, nice to find a forum that has such great support. Checking under the stator cover is a great idea--- would really let you know how well the maintenance has been versus what it has been rode in. Ad claims he really needs the money.If I get it I plan to go ahead and pull the top end down after a couple of short rides just to satisfy my conscience, seems like a good investment versus what the worst outcome could be without doing it. Anyhow,I'm going to take a look at it this weekend if possible, keep posting all the great pointers. I'll keep you guys updated.

[Polar-Bus]

I would NEVER, EVER buy a bike off Ebay. There's just too many scumbags trying to use Ebay to hide issues. I paid $1900 for my '01 back 4 years ago. Thought it was in excellent condition, but trashed pivot bearings, destroyed inner subframe (chain rubbing), and rear spokes that were almost ready to fall out. So no matter what every used bike has some sort of gremlins. I'm anal about my bikes, I want them perfect, and I want them to start every time and run perfect on a sunday when i'm ready to ride !

[blueoval]

I paid $1,500 for a 2000 k5 last year.  The motor was solid with a good top end and good seals.  I put over $1,000 into it.  O ring chain, sprockets, tires, throttle cable, air filter, desert tank (the original one was leaking), petcock, handle bars, hand guards, grips, brake pads, brake lines, and a few other little things.  The bike is very reliable now and I feel pretty good about the $2,500 I have in it total.  I looked at a couple of $900 bikes and they were basket cases that were ready for the scrap yard.  I would spend around $2,000 or so and get a decent bike to start with.    I agree with Polar-Bus that a reliable bike is very important.  I want a perfect bike, but I am sure perfect just isn't possible, but I do my best to keep it well maintained so I can enjoy my Sunday rides.  just my opinion

[Big Daddy J]

I'm right with you blueoval, most peoples' like new is average to me, at best ( I call it a curse ). Anyone got an opinion on what I said about pulling the top end down after a few rides? I used to repair outboard motors/boats for side money, could tell alot by looking at the tops of the pistons,plugs and cylinder walls. (used a bendy light to look at the tops and the cylinders). Unfortunately it looks as though it would be hard to get a good straight on look into the cylider bore through the spark plug hole with a bendy light and looks as though there is no plate to pull off (outboard motors generally have an exhaustcover)on the hot side of the piston to see any scoring or lack of lubrication/lean condition. Can't figure any other way to see what's actually going on in there other than pull it apart. Would rather find a minor problem before it turns into a major problem or worse. Also, correct me if I'm wrong, with the chrome bore on the cylinder of these engines,theoretically the only parts that should wear are the piston and ring(s), I understand that in the real world things happen that may disclaim this, but in reality what can I expect to see with this set-up?

[Danger4u2]

 
KX500 FEATURES

Electrofusion Cylinder

Improves heat transfer for consistent power output
Porous so it holds lubrication well and it resists abrasion and seizure
Allows closer engine tolerances for more horsepower

http://www.maxrpms.net/shop/

[oic0]

The cylinders do wear, just slowly.
As for tearing it down when you get it, its not a bad idea, but it will cost you $50 in gaskets. I did it with mine because I thought for sure it had piston slap. It was just the power valve rattling around. If you do tear it down, definitely clean the powervalve and possibly rotate the pins. When the pins wear it lets the middle piece flop around noisly and it doesn't work as well, not that they get silent even when perfect, they were created with a lot of tolerance so they don't freeze up from carbon too soon.