Introductions and KX60 questions

[bryan_h]

Hello, new to the site and new to a 96' Kawasaki KX60. I've also got a 00 XR400. Past dirt bikes have included 91' & 89' RM250, 90' XT350, 86' KX125, 81' YZ250, 73?' Yamaha AT125 (had to go to two garages to get all the parts for that bike, it had a 175 jug on it, fixed it up and rode it to high school for two years) and a 71' Honda CT70.  So my blood does not bleed green, it's multi colored.  Found the site looking for information on the KX.

Back to the KX60, I bought it for my 9 yr old son. He had an 93 Z50 but was permanently borrowed by someone last fall.  He had pretty well out grown the 50 and I was figuring on selling it parlaying the cash and getting a good condition 60. That plan didn't work so well so I decided I'd buy a fixer upper on the cheap.  Found a good candidate and bought it.  It had the cylinder and clutch case removed but all major parts were there so I think I'll be able to get it running without too much effort.  The PO thought (not his bike) it was dissembled to replace the top end, and possibly the clutch.  It had new plates in the "parts box".  It has spark and shifts and spins through the gears, carb looks clean. The piston looks new as it's not discolored at all.  My plan was to get it together and make sure it runs before investing too much into it.  I bought a gasket kit, some misc bolts from ACE.  I've got enough to assemble the top end now, minus one head bolt, but wanted to check a few things first and was hoping for some input.

I was going to check compression prior to trying to start it. I have a compression tester but never used one before.  Do I need to seal the carb and exhaust opening?
What is the ring end gap?
I couldn't see any cross hatching on the cylinder, if I need to fix the cylinder what are my options?
I'm missing one head bolt (ordered but not in yet, I think they must be machining it based on the amount of time it's taken) is it safe to fire without it?
The water pump shaft, the one with a slot in the end that mates with the pump, is threaded but has no nut.  Looking at a parts fiche I don't see a nut but seems like it's made to have one. I didn't have any spare parts that would fit it so I think I'm OK.
Trans oil qty?
Do I need to connect the cooling system and exhaust to just see if it will fire up.  Hate to connect it only to have to remove it. Thinking about it I have to put the exhaust on don't I?
I'm planning on getting a manual once I can get it to fire, is the Kawi book the best bet or are there better aftermarket books?

As near as I can see I'll still need a kick starter (I ebay'd one but the wrong one came), rear wheel bearings, rear brake pedal bushing, and a few other misc nuts and bolts, but I should be less than $300 bucks total into it unless I need a piston and ring or the cylinder may need to be fixed depending on compression.

I'd post some photos but don't think I can as a noob.

Thanks for the input sorry for the long first post.
Bryan

[Friar-Tuck]

 Hey Brian,
 No worries on the long post. The more info the better. 
  You're right on about the manual, all the basic info you need is available in a Factory service manual or a clymer.  I understand it doesn't seem very cost effective when you're trying to decide if you will keep the bike or not, but you can always re-sell or include it with the price of the bike if you do decide to sell it.
  I have found the clymer would be just fine as the bike books look better than their auto books I've had in the past.
The clymer also sometimes has tips the FSM will not.
   It's not that you won't be able to get answers here, it just might take a bit as folks get tied up with other things.
 
    Hopefully some of the guys will see the post and help out.  The forum here has been very helpful to me.
The compression test of the cyl. (utilizing the spark plug and gauge)  is supposed to be done with an engine warmed up, throttle held wide open and cycle the kicker several times to get cylinder pressure
 
  After you get the compression test done, you may want to consider a pressure/ vacuum test for the condition of the crank seals and case.  I believe this is the test you are refering to:
 here   http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,6385.45.html
  The test pressure is only about six pounds pressure & 7 inches vacuum.  Otherwise you'll blow the seals  testing !

I wouldn't try the cylinder compression or start up without all the head studs so as not to blow out your head gasket
(or o-rings as the case may be)
  You can fire the engine w/out coolant or exhaust however it is easy to get carried away.. it may only take a few seconds to start damaging water pump seals & bearings etc.  (The coolant is the lube also.)
  Tuck\o/

[Japie]

Hi there Bryan!

Did you come right? I went through pretty much the same as what you are doing now. My son has a '88 KX 60. If you need any info, let me know, i've got the Clymer and factory manuals.

[bryan_h]

Bit of an update.  I finally got all the misc parts in.  After four weeks of waiting for a head bolt I found another dealer who got one in a few days.  I did pick up a manual which saved me as one of the extra nuts I had was for the pinion gear, which I though looked like it need something on there. It showed in a photo and then later I found it in the parts diagram where I had originally missed it.

Anyways put all the necessary parts on, no coolant leaks or oil leaking, a bit of gas came out the carb overflow but quickly quit. Kick a few times got a sputter but no fire.  I checked the plug and it looked dry, took the carb off and went through it again. The jets looked clean.  Tried a few more kicks and still nothing.  It was late and I was sucking gas/oil/cleaning fumes and didn't want to wake the neighbors, so I'll try again tomorrow.  Next I'll reclean the carb with some cleaner and air pressure.

While waiting for the parts I took the stem/head off and cleaned and regreased the bearings and changed the fork oil.  Glad I did as they were both nasty. And it seemed to make a noticeable difference in the forks.

Found another good source for misc nuts and bolts, McMaster/Carr.

I'm pretty close to my planned budget of $300.  I went over a bit as I replaced all the stupid phillips heads with 8mm flange heads on the cases and carb and an assortment of collars, rubber buffers that were pretty worn and a clutch cable.  I was going to wait until I knew it would run before replacing the small stuff but since I needed to place an order...

And I think as mentioned here before, Suzuki RM60 parts are cheaper than KX60 if going through the dealer.

Anyone have a good source for bearings I need a rear wheel and the upper shock mount.  Rear is a  pretty standard one but I don't think the shock is.

[Hillclimb#42]

Riders Discount had flat rate on wheel bearrings with free shipping.

[bryan_h]

 Success.  It started up on the third kick.  Not sure where the problem was.  The kid even got it started with two kicks.  I got everything else back on and ran it through the gears without a problem.  We'll try to get out to an open area this weekend.  Theres going to be some learning for my son to get the clutch and although I only touched the upper revs, I can see it will be a handful for him.

[bryan_h]

I'll try and post a photo

Some Photos:

[Coop]

Glad you got it figured out. Good looking bike too.

I just picked up a 94 KX60 for my nephew.