Tschisi,
Your going to have to change your main over that broad a range of temps, or run rich when it warms up and close when it's cold. It doesn't take long to swap out mains by removing the 17mm plug in the bottom of the carb bowl.
Use a 6mm socket to remove and replace the main.
Re-install the 17mm plug and ride.
I agree with BlueOval, on the size of the pilot.
The pilot and air screw actually have an effect on the whole range of your carb from Idle to W.O.T.
(Read through this link for a refresher on jetting
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/carbs101.pdf )
If you can't remove the pilot, can you remove the carb and take it to a machine shop and ask them if they can remove it for you.
If that is not possible there are some other things you may consider.
Lowering your needle to the top clip position.
A 7 heat range plug (BR7ES--G-EIX etc. Cheap one for test ride) Take a short ride and check the plug.
Start going leaner on your main.
You have to be careful obviously, how hard you ride and the type of riding you do is going to come into play. Take some tools out with you and try a 165 main. Take the bike out for a short ride and make sure you get up to operating temp, without going W.O.T.
Pull the plug and see what it looks like. If it still looks rich, get the bike up to operating temperature and do a plug chop to verify the bikes not melting!
You may be able to clean up your jetting by getting a leaner needle.
An N82N is the next leaner needle (from Stock) and a N82P in two leaner (than the stock(N82M)
I know this is a pain in the rear, but you should be able to get pretty good performance working around the pilot.
The biggest thing to remember is to only change one thing at a time and take it easy until your sure the bike is not melting the piston.
After a while you will know what you need to do to get the bike running right, it just takes a little time and patience.
Every bike and rider are different, so there really is no magic numbers or jetting combination's.
You CAN DO IT!
Tuck\o/
