Decreasing power for newer 500 owners

[Friar-Tuck]

 I know this is not orthodox.  I (like I'm sure most other folks) have spent my time searching out how to increase performance, not taking it out.
   The best scenario is getting the bike having had a good bit of expierience.  Sometimes it just doesn't work out that way.   So for whatever reason an owner finds themselves piloting these things, what can a new owner do to de-tune the engine to a more controlled experiment without doing any permanant damage to either themselves or the engine.
     Re-gearing the sprockets for more top end.
(Which seems contradictory, however it does decrease acceleration.)
   
A throttle with a cam (for more than a 90 degree idle to W.O.T.)
 
  I thought about either an additional base gasket & or an additional head gasket.   Reducing compression.
Would the base gasket just move the timing or not be worth the effort.   
   
  Another Idea I had was to adjust the power valve to less than optimal engagement. It would still move (preventing carbon fouling)  but kick in a tad later with less than maximum results.

 A set of fiberglass reeds ( less tesion ) and setting the ignition timing to the center mark on the stator plate.
 And lastly, using a less than perfect  expansion chamber.
 I don't think any of this will actually do any damage to the engine, and reversing the process one step at a time may be alot less intimidating.
   
If anyone else has any suggestions or comment on the stuff I could think of please post up.
  Tuck\o/

[bigbellybob]

i would suggest starting out on a 250. all that stuff will move the power around but its still going to have a lot. or just give the bike some respect take it easy and dont grab a handful tell your ready. ride in a higher gear would also help tame the beast.

[Motorrad]

Smaller carb. 

Best thing I can reccomend.  And have done for friends.  Go find the slowest enduro throttle you can find...    I swear some require a 3/4 rotation for wfo.  Best and cheapest fix for a novice rider

[blueoval]

I think selling it and buying a more appropriate bike is the answer.  It is has always baffled me (maybe I am just easily baffled) that people with minimal experience on a dirt bike end up with a kx500.  I just can't figure this out. 

[Dutch-K5 Fan]

I like the idea of a smaller carb and slower throttle. Don't what to give up power to much.
And don't think that a shame to tame the beast. I whant it to make it smoother, and as far as I know.
Every kx500 factory rider has done this. So why not mortall man like us?
How many of us are using a flywheel weight??? They smooth out the hit.



Dutchie 

[Friar-Tuck]

 Thanks Guys,
   There have been several folks in the past that either by hook or by crook ended up with a K5.
 Another type of guy looking for that kind of OOmpf is someone over 275lbs. I think.
  Any way, thanks for taking the time to jump in, it may help out someone trying to take control of the  bike
who didn't realize what they were in for 
    Tuck\o/

[Polar-Bus]

I know this is not orthodox.  I (like I'm sure most other folks) have spent my time searching out how to increase performance, not taking it out.
   The best scenario is getting the bike having had a good bit of expierience.  Sometimes it just doesn't work out that way.   So for whatever reason an owner finds themselves piloting these things, what can a new owner do to de-tune the engine to a more controlled experiment without doing any permanant damage to either themselves or the engine.
     Re-gearing the sprockets for more top end.
(Which seems contradictory, however it does decrease acceleration.)
   
A throttle with a cam (for more than a 90 degree idle to W.O.T.)
  and increasing the amount of free play in the throttle.  (Making it an effort to actually get the thing W.F.O.)

  I thought about either an additional base gasket & or an additional head gasket.   Reducing compression.
Would the base gasket just move the timing or not be worth the effort.   
   
  Another Idea I had was to adjust the power valve to less than optimal engagement. It would still move (preventing carbon fouling)  but kick in a tad later with less than maximum results.

 A set of fiberglass reeds ( less tesion ) and setting the ignition timing to the center mark on the stator plate.
 And lastly, using a less than perfect  expansion chamber.
 I don't think any of this will actually do any damage to the engine, and reversing the process one step at a time may be alot less intimidating.
   
If anyone else has any suggestions or comment on the stuff I could think of please post up.
  Tuck\o/

Add an exhaust restrictor washer between the exhaust pipe and cylinder. I did this to my son's KX65 when he was first learning how to ride. Worked awesome.

[Chod]

Tuck-In some ways they alresdy have Tuck, Think about it?

[KXcam22]

The two easiest methods are to bend in the reed stops.  This reduces the fuel intake and power.  The most effective is blocking the exhaust.  A simple restrictor can be made to fit inside the silencer end.  The washer in the exhaust port works but it needs to be fairly thin and the diameter must be exact. Cam.

[Rotorised]

If you've got a dinged up pipe that would help. Maybe throw in a few more dents for good measure hahaha

I remember when i stacked my bike and bent in the pipe badly it lost ALOT of power.
Mind you that pipe was completely stuffed and had to be replaced after that.
So I think a few strategic dents may make for a smaller power loss.

But i think it also made it harder to start, which is never good for a beginner hahaha

[Friar-Tuck]

  More great Ideas.
  Keep them com'in Thanks guys.   
   Tuck\o/

[Friar-Tuck]

 Here Lies a few things the guys have contributed to Tuning out some Horsepower for a chap that finds themselves the proud owner of a Big Bore Two Stroke that may have been more than they bargained for. 

 I have found it unreasonably easy to get into real trouble real fast on these things.
 Please consider these Ideas to slowing the bike down until you feel confident enough to start putting the power back in. 
   The beauty of all these suggestions is that none of them are permanent.
   Remember the life you save may be your own!

The two easiest methods are to bend in the reed stops. 
  This reduces the fuel intake and power.
 
The most effective is blocking the exhaust.  A simple restrictor can be made
to fit inside the silencer end.

Add an exhaust restrictor/washer between the exhaust pipe and cylinder.
 I did this to my son's KX65 when he was first learning how to ride.
Worked awesome.   The washer in the exhaust port works but it needs to be fairly thin and
the diameter must be exact.


 smaller carb and slower throttle.


  Go find the slowest enduro throttle you can find...   
I swear some require a 3/4 rotation for wfo.  A throttle with a cam (for more than a 90 degree idle to W.O.T.)
   
Adding an additional head gasket.   Reducing compression.

   Adjust the power valve to less than optimal engagement. It would still move (preventing carbon fouling)  but kick in
 a tad later with less than maximum results.

  Setting the ignition timing to the center mark on the stator plate, reducing the timing is actually recommended to increase overrev.
   Advancing the timing has been rumored to increasing "Kick-Back" when starting.

 
 If you've got a dinged up pipe that would help. Maybe throw in a few more dents for good measure hahaha
  I remember when i stacked my bike and bent in the pipe badly it lost ALOT of power.
Mind you that pipe was completely stuffed and had to be replaced after that.
So I think a few strategic dents may make for a smaller power loss.
 Ask around for an old banged up pipe.   They can usually be had  free or the cost of shipping.

 But i think it also made it harder to start, which is never good for a
beginner hahaha.  So having one run over flat would be too much... 

   Give the bike some respect take it easy and dont grab a handful 'till your ready.

 Riding in a higher gear.
  Re-gearing the sprockets for more top end.
(Which seems contradictory, however it does decrease acceleration.)
 
Flywheel Weight

 Don't think that a shame to tame the beast. I want it to make it smoother, and as far as I know,
   Every kx500 factory rider has done this. So why not mortall man like us?
How many of us are using a flywheel weight??? They smooth out the hit.

 This may be a bit cobbled together but hopefully the search engine will pick it up .
  Thanks again Tuck\o/

[Motorrad]

"increase the free play in the throttle"

just noticed this on the list. 
That is a ticket for disaster.  Good way to get the carb slide to stick from a bound up loose cable!!!

[jfabmotorsports.com]

The best and most effective way to decrease the power is to rotate the throtle in a forword direction. This can be done at any time it is needed and without tools.  With a little practice you will never have too much power.

[dangerous dean]

you may laugh at the freeplay on the cable but i used to use this idea when ridings enduros on a yellow250 i always had more than average play because of moving around the bike so much i didnt want to grab the gas too quickly...i also duct taped the cable to the top of the carb and the cable to the adjuster up top,never had any probs...