Author Topic: typical gearing for a desert/trail sled?  (Read 3331 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

ShanMan

  • Guest
typical gearing for a desert/trail sled?
« on: May 19, 2003, 08:16:24 AM »
OK, I just bought the Steahly 14 oz. flywheel weight, and the Moose reed spacer. Currently I am running stock gearing. I don't need 90+ mph capability. What kind of gearing changes (if any) would be a good match for producing the most tractable, [ick]four strokish[ick] power in order to make the bike even better at moderate speeds on tighter, more technical single track but still allow some KX500-famous open class blasting? TIA!  :P

Rick

  • Guest
typical gearing for a desert/trail sled?
« Reply #1 on: May 19, 2003, 09:01:13 AM »
I am preparing for a couple of upcoming woods races, including a two-day ISDE qualifier, so have been riding in the tight trees.  Yesterday, we ran up to the higher elevations, and hit snow.  We were running on 12 inch wide trails, on side hills with as much as 500 foot drop with at least a 70 degree down hill angle. :shock:   I was running second and third gear, and run stock gearing for this type of woods riding.

The day before (Saturday), we spent 6 hours in desert blasting big sand washes, and high speed whooped out trail.  Since I am lazy, and know I have a few woods races coming up, I just left on the stock gearing (14/47), and did just fine.

In a nut shell, in my oppinion, stock gearing should work for both the desert and in the woods.  I tried a 14/49 once, and just could not keep the front end on the ground in trees.  The front end kept coming up and throwing me off balance.

My vote: stock

Rick

ShanMan

  • Guest
typical gearing for a desert/trail sled?
« Reply #2 on: May 19, 2003, 09:18:59 AM »
awesome, Thank you for the reply Rick. That just means more time riding and less time wrenching..which is nice!  :D

Offline Paul

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,205
  • Top Dawg
    • KX Riders
typical gearing for a desert/trail sled?
« Reply #3 on: May 19, 2003, 09:49:29 AM »
I use two sets of gears:

14/47 for 99% of my riding
15/45 for 1% of my racing

I use those 15/45 gears twice a year and the speed is absolutely incredible on this machine. All I can say at that speed "Hope ya gotta dampner" :lol:

sdkx500

  • Guest
typical gearing for a desert/trail sled?
« Reply #4 on: May 26, 2003, 09:01:52 AM »
:oops:  :oops:

So after all the gearing talk I went and looked at mine which I havent changed since i bought it last year.  It appears I am running 14/53.  Hmmm no wonder I had such wheelie problems.  I changed the pipe, spacer, but avoided the obvious gearing.  I know on the old forum Rick gave his opinon and research on which chains and gears to purchase.  Would you repost that Rick?


Thanks

Rick

  • Guest
typical gearing for a desert/trail sled?
« Reply #5 on: May 27, 2003, 02:28:01 AM »
Gosh, it's been a long time since the old forum was alive (or was that the old, old forum, 2 times removed).  At any rate, I can't find the post of which you speak.  I have saved several of my old posts, like the long one that addresses how to properly change a tire, and the one I wrote on rebuilding the rear shock, but can't find one on gearing.

However, 14/53  :shock:  :shock: !  WOW.  I have trouble keeping the front wheel down with 14/47, and tried 14/49 once and could not even ride.  Front wheel kept jumping up.  Over Memorial Day weekend, I raced a REALLY tight 2 day event (did I mention it was REALLY tight), and ran my 14/47 woods gearing.  I had to drop the forks 1/2 inch because it was REALLY tight, just to be able to get around, between, over, under logs and trees.  Even with the tightness of this event, I still didn't use the cultch enough to cause any fading, and never once had to turn the knob on the quick adjust lever system I use.  

One problem area where a higher rear sprocket may have caused some problems was on a narrow loose side hill, with a 90+ degree turn at the top, between two trees with exposed roots.  My first venture on the side hill, I tried in first gear, and lost the rear tire off the edge.  All subsequent trips up the side hill were in second gear to avoid wheel spin on the edge, and at the top as I jumped over the roots.  The point here is that I believe you can actually go too much on the rear sprocket and hurt your riding.

My 13 year old rode his KX125, and was running 2nd overall expert for almost the entire event, until he hit a tree and broke his brake tube just past the master cylinder on the handle bars, so one of the fastest riders at the event.  He had to finish the last 15 miles with only a rear brake, so lost 4 positions.  After the event, he wanted to ride the course a few more times (not sure why, as all I wanted was a nap and a sandwich after two days of racing), so I let him take my 500 since we did not have an extra front brake hose in the van.  He rode for another 2 1/2 hours, and was amazed at how well the 500 worked in the tight stuff.  He didn't like the extra weight (but then again, he only weighs 150 pounds), but liked the fact that he was faster than everyone up every hill.  He also liked being able to just gas it in any gear and get to a wheelie.  Seems the 14/47 was just fine for Ben as well.

Test several gearing options for your type of riding, using the front sprocket as the gauge (they are cheap, and amount to roughly 3 teeth on the rear sprocket for every one on the front.  For instance, swap to a 15 tooth in the front, and it will be close to a swap to a 49 in the rear.  You can then ask yourself it it was too much, not enough, or just right.  If was a little too much, swap to a 15/50.  If not enough, try a 14/48 or 14/47.  By swapping the front sprocket first as a test, you will have spent only $15, and should be pretty close when you purchase your first rear sprocket.  But remember, when you get down to the final testing, one tooth on the rear can be the difference between really close, and just right.  Once you find the combination that fits your riding style and terrain, stay with it.

Good luck.

Rick

sdkx500

  • Guest
typical gearing for a desert/trail sled?
« Reply #6 on: May 27, 2003, 04:47:17 AM »
Rick...  Sounds like fun.  Your kid must be a good rider.  Sometimes I wish I would have started riding earlier.  The desert racing sounds fun.  I have been thinking about entering an event next year but I am not sure what type of event to enter.  Something with a beginner class.

The old post i was reffering to was about your testing over time with differnt types of chains ie.. o ring, xring, and alum/steel sprockets.  I would like your opinon due to the sheer number of miles you put on your bike.

Thanks

Offline HAWK1111

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 6
Re: typical gearing for a desert/trail sled?
« Reply #7 on: January 18, 2011, 02:19:13 AM »
On the mtn. trails here in TN., I run 15-50 gearing on my '04 500. Perfect... I don't like running a 14 cause it makes for more chain friction= small power loss. The chain has to make a sharper arc on the smalller 14. My 15-50 w/14oz. flywheel wt., and V-Force 3, w/fmf gnarly pipe is stellar! I have loads of grunt and an un-achievable top end. Yeah, I said un-achievable top end, and this mean machine has no lag. My jetting is spot on. If I was desert riding, I would try 15-46 to start. But 4 trails with some nice clear straight aways 15-50 is killer bra.

Offline Purpletj

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 146
Re: typical gearing for a desert/trail sled?
« Reply #8 on: January 18, 2011, 02:05:26 PM »
Talk about diggin up old post. lol
"When you sit with a nice girl for two hours, it seems like two minutes. When you sit on a hot stove for two minutes, it seems like two hours. That's relativity." -- Albert Einstein