Author Topic: Plethora of Questions  (Read 9785 times)

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teamgreen500

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« Reply #15 on: February 06, 2004, 10:53:33 AM »
They just fill it and bleed it out via the cap. If there's a real problem, I've seen them loosen a hose.

Manny

Rick

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« Reply #16 on: February 10, 2004, 01:52:05 AM »
I have never taken the bleed screw out.  I glue in place with Loctite and leave it alone.  Never had any problem with any bike after a rebuild.  Bleed through the cap and leave the screw in place.

Rick

NastyNick

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« Reply #17 on: February 15, 2004, 09:38:31 AM »
Finally started on the top.  What a mess!  Whats the best/easiest way to clean the cylinder/exhaust ports?

Also, how much power will I gain by having a working power-valve?  The powervalve on it is frozen.  I am having a hell  of a time getting the valves out of the powers.  Looks like it's frozen down by the exhaust port.  As a matter of fact the linkage under the governer cover was disconnected or had fallen a part!!

Cylinder/head and piston look good tho.  I did get a wiseco piston/rings/bearing/clips/pin kit so I am going to use those instead of the old ones.

another question:  do I need to use any gasket goop with my new gaskets?  Looks like the old ones had some on it, but my books says nothing about it.

Heck, I might just take this all down to the dealer and have them do it.

kawdude

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« Reply #18 on: February 15, 2004, 09:53:12 AM »
oven cleaner works good but you must wash it off when done because it will react with the aluminum.  You need the power valve, it will provide the power mid range and up.

Offline Paul

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« Reply #19 on: February 15, 2004, 01:37:20 PM »
d**n Nick, you REALLY REALLY want that fixed. If necessary a new jug is only about $300 or so and all the associated stuff would run you another $150 or so.

Take your time and try the oven cleaner. I've used WD-40 to free up frozen power valves and that doesn't affect the aluminum.

NastyNick

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« Reply #20 on: February 15, 2004, 04:35:16 PM »
Oven cleaner worked!  I soaked with some mild (said it on the can ;) ) it for about 15 to 20 minutes, washed it with warm soapy water  That loosened it up a bit, so I repeated the process.  twice more.  Finally got the valves up far enough to get the governer rod out.  Had to repeat the process a couple more times to get the valves all the way out.  Then the middle one came out too.  It's one big chunk of carbon, but it starting to clean up a bit.  I think it will be ok.

Paul:  Where can you get a new cylinder for $300 at??  My dealer wants close to $600 for one then probably another 400 for all the other stuff!  I think they charge full-boat retails on OEM parts.

Question on pistons:  I picked up a new wiseco kit on eBay.  Looks good, except there is a small (1/16" x 1/8") bur (for lack of a better word) near the rear of the piston.  Will it be OK?  It was packed real good, so I am not sure how that happened.  If you don't think it's OK, my original piston looks good too (no breaks/crack/etc) except there is some really small pitting on the top.

Just think, I thought the beast was powerfully before!  After all this, and a working KIPS, it should rip my arms out of the sockets when I give it the onion. :)

Offline gowen

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« Reply #21 on: February 15, 2004, 06:42:27 PM »
:oops: I feel like an idiot asking this, but what are you guys talking about the oil bleeder hole and a drilled hole in the frame? Are you talking about the oil drain bolt at the bottom of the motor? or the little bolt in the side to check the oil height? I'm quite confused..

Anyway, I too am in another rebuild and I also have a serious leaky counter sproket leak. I guess it's time for another seal.  :x

mikesmith

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« Reply #22 on: February 15, 2004, 08:25:19 PM »
Your not an idot,only someone who thinks they know everything and wont ask is an idiot.The bleeder is the small bolt in the head to bleed the air out as you add coolant,its nothing to do with oil and the hole was drilled in the bolt to safety wire it from vibrating out.

Offline Paul

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« Reply #23 on: February 16, 2004, 12:27:43 AM »
Quote from: gowen

Anyway, I too am in another rebuild and I also have a serious leaky counter sproket leak. I guess it's time for another seal.  :x


Quit feeding that thing seals and read this thread:

http://www.pitbull-racing.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=434&start=0

Offline GreenMachine

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« Reply #24 on: February 16, 2004, 04:37:06 PM »
Well, I just did some research for a cylinder, here is what I found. None for $300. I did however find one for $399 at midwestaction cycle.

As for any one else, what do you all think about the wiseco piston kits. Some say yes some no. But all of the people I talk to own small bore 2 strokes.

Jody
Even the mightiest of oaks was once just a crazy nut that stood its ground.

Offline Paul

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« Reply #25 on: February 16, 2004, 05:02:31 PM »
Ehhh, close enough. I remembered they were in three range :lol:

Rick

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« Reply #26 on: February 17, 2004, 03:23:38 AM »
A 500 can run quite well with lots of pistion issues.  Two years ago, my oldest seized a piston in a brand spankin new KX500 on practice day at a National in California.  Upon checking, it had a score all the way up one side about 1/16 deep and 1/8 wide.  John had an extra cylinder in the Kawasaki semi, so we swapped off to a new cylinder.  I later used the old cyliner with the score, and was shocked to find that there was almost no noticable power loss.  For the average rider, they would never notice anything.  In fact, the bike is still running the same "damaged" cylinder two years later.  I also ran my 1999 KX500 cylinder too long, and found the plating on the exhaust side worn badly.  Here again, little noticable power loss.  

With all that said, as long as the slight damage on the piston does not effect the ring's ability to compress smoothly, I would use the new piston.  If we were talking about a KX125, I would have a completely different oppinion.

Good luck

Rick

kawdude

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« Reply #27 on: February 17, 2004, 03:58:51 AM »
Seals:
On my KX I could not get the counter shaft seal to stop leaking even after replacing the oring  I then replaced the outer seal, still no go.  I finally got the thing stopping by replacing the sleeve that pushes against the oring and sprocket.

Cylinder:
399 is as cheap as I've seen them.  Treasure coast honda usually is the cheapest but they come in at 420.

In response to Ricks note.  My KX probably has run 6-8 years without any maintanence!  Except the lack of performance is very noticeable on mine.  I question whether the previous owner ever changed the oil.  Piston has a lean scoring and the cylinder has lost much of the plating especially on the exhaust valve side.

NastyNick

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« Reply #28 on: February 17, 2004, 04:19:42 AM »
Thanks for the info Rick.  A mechmonkey friend of mine also said to use the new one.  I showed it to him and he said not a problem.  My cylinder is showing some wear, but not too bad.  All nice an clean now.  I think I will keep as is and save the bucks.

Now, if I could just get my main exhaust valve, left/right valves clean of all the carbon.  They have been been taking turns soaking in solvent and oven-cleaner for the last few days.  I even took a few turns with a dremel on it last night to break it up a bit.  Making some progress, but it's slow.

Sharc

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« Reply #29 on: February 17, 2004, 06:11:21 AM »
Sounds like quite a project. Too bad you dont have a spare K5 to ride in the mean time...
I just did the top end on my 2002. Looks like I had a partial seizure, and I didnt even notice...!! I emery-clothed the cylinder and buttoned it up and it's good to go for this weekend. Huge compression increase....I got a feeling the power wont feel a whole lot different, cuz like Rick said, big-block 2-strokes can handle a lot.

Good luck with your Jug...!!

Sharc