suspension ? for my kx 500

[Rick]

I have set the rear spring with between 7/8 inch and 1 1/8 static sag depending upon rider preference.  The change in static will change your race sag, but your race sag at something close to 4 inches only tells you if you have the right spring for your weight.  So, assuming you have the right spring from your weight, change your static sag with the range mentioned and see what you like best.  

Also, playing with your fork height in the tripple clamps can also change your ride.  I run my forks about 1/4 above the tripple clamps.  Any more, and the front end is weighted too much when railing a corner at speed while standing, causing the front end to wash to the inside.

Good luck.

Rick

[teamgreen500]

A Note:

My bike's set up a bit "Firm Feelin'"; YET, it soaks up every thing and never rides "Harsh". Also, my bike rides rather "Hi" in the "stroke" of both the front and rear. It, also, turns so good that my friends (On KX250, 125 and KXF) are asking Pro-Circuit to make their bikes handle and "Turn" the same way!

Check that out: My "Big Fat Pig" of a "Ain't been changed since '89(!!!!!)" and "Ain't no Slim feelin Perimeter Framed Freestyler" "Gee, aint that for Old Guys?" "Same as it Ever Was KX500" feels light enough and "Tight" enough that guys with "New Style-Gen Y&Z" scooters are askin' Bones and the guys to set their "Sticker-Mobiles" up like my "Big Bike"!

The POINT: I realized, as I read Rick's comments A LOT of the Crap that gets said about the K5 is due to the Mushy feeling they often have. Also, as Rick has pointed out on SEVERAL OCASSIONS, firmer springs can make ALL THE DIFFERENCE.

SAG, both STATIC and Dynamic are Critical to the "Feel" of your bike AND IT's ABILITY to T-U-R-N and "Handle". I can not stress ENOUGH how much "Lighter" a KX500 feels with proper set-up!

Spring Rate...Too soft for most...especially "Intermediate" or faster. Too soft to handle correctly for ANYONE fast over 150#. PERIOD!

Dampening...I believe you can get a pretty good set-up stock; However, the AVERAGE guy should rebuild/revalve(If required) AT-LEAST ONCE a YEAR if they ride much. An Oil Change and R&R of seals/worn parts will usually do it.

Service Linkage and R&R worn linkage and Steering-Head parts AT-LEAST once a year (For Mr. Average...more often if you ride a lot!) I just found that I had a  MISSING NEEDLE BEARING on a bike prepared by one of the best mechanics out there, trust me, I'm not talking about myself and I'm not B.S.ing! One of the "Needles" was missing on my Pivot/Counter-shaft side. It just wasn't there. Cage was fine...-1- needle missing. That's why we check this stiff.

Adjust/Compare/Test.

If you think that you aren't any good with "Set-Up", try this. Go riding at a Track or Trail that you're REAL FAMILIAR with. Now, try this:

Put your Fork Compression Dampening at FULL HARD. Go ride the bumps carefully(!) and get a feel for how the front works at this setting . BE CAREFUL...IT's going to fell pretty harsh and "Stiff".

Now....set the Fork Compression at full SOFT and try it again. Pretty different? Be CAREFUL and DON'T go Skyin' it over any JUMPS! Your forks are gonna feel pretty "Mushy" and "Springy" (We haven't talked about "Rebound" and in some of the Older forks the "Rebound" is kinda Scary when you are doin' this).

Now, start takin' a guess at where you think you'd like it set at and start TESTING!

Do the Same thing for Rebound.

TAKE NOTES! Compare your comments. If you spend some time learning this stuff, you'll find yourself changing the settings for different Tracks and Trails.


Good Luck,

Manny

[ajt]

Rick, Manny thanx for the encouraging and informative responses. I should rebuild the linkage/swingarm with some waterproof for sure.I revalved it with race-tech (had acme), and switched to a spring that came with it marked 5.6, well with .75inch static it had about 4.5 inch race, I beleive that was a mistake, now matter where I ran the clickers from full rebound and compression to neither it sucked. It had a big spike in the compression slash kick on the rebound. From to much preload I beleive. Now I put the one that was on it back again. 1.375 static 4.25race rear, 1.5static 3race for the front. Hopefully I be able to ride friday and report good news.

[teamgreen500]

Now you know why I go with Pro-Circuit...they've got a LOT of Green in their history...they set-up a lot of stuff for Kawasaki...some of which they don't get credit for.

Manny

[Rick]

Manny made a GREAT point on clickers that is worth pointing out.  While setting the clickers, don't change more than one thing at a time, as you won't know which change was bad or good.  Also, try and think about what you don't like about the suspension.  Is is too harsh over the small stuff, big stuff, etc.  It also helps to have a buddy watch you from a right angle as you make passes over the same section of trail.  You'll be surprised at how the bike will "look" different with changes, and a friend's eyes can be a great source of information.

I serviced my shock and forks over xmas, and just got a chance to ride last weekend.  I had increased the oil to 10 weight in the shock and 5 weight in the front.  While the rebound clickers both front and rear was still OK, the compression was not.  I had to increase three clicks up front, and six clicks in back.  The point here that just because the suspension is done once does not mean you are done for good.  Servicing the components can mean another day of suspension tuning.  The good thing is that with time, you'll get good at "feeling" the difference.

One final note.  Last weekend, Ben and I set the clickers on four bikes for folks too afraid to make any changes.  With Ben riding the bike (125's and 250's don't fit my frame very well) and me watching him pound whoops, we made changes that improved suspension performance more than the owners could believe.  So, as Manny said, keep notes (especially your starting setting), and make some adjustments.  With your notes, you can always go back to your starting point again.  Don't be affraid to experiment.

Enjoy.

Rick