Locktite rear suspension linkage?

[Uzi9mm]

How do shop mechanics loosen a loctited bolt in steel or aluminum?  Do some mechanics use a torch to heat the part?  Is it a common practice to locktite the bolt that attaches the rear shock to the rocker arm on the rear suspension?

[DoldGuy]

Uzi,
I am not a shop mechanic but have dealt with a fair amount of seized bolts. Alot of the bolts such as yours, have had the aluminum corrode itself to the bolt (it still could just be Loctite) from many pressure washings, creek crossings, etc. If you heat the threaded side & apply some penetrating oil (I like PB Blaster) and let cool. Repeat this step 3 or 4 times & you should be able to remove the bolt without pulling the threads out of the shock. I would also recommend removing the linkage from the bike before heating & apply a small amount of Anti Seize to the threads on all linkage bolts & torque accordingly. The linkage is the most neglected on just about all the bikes I see & only takes a small investment of time to care for.
Hope this helps!

[Uzi9mm]

I'm not tryin to take mine apart yet.  The reason I'm asking is that I had my suspension serviced, some bearings put in and a new rear tire.  When I got the bike back, it was covered in black powder and greasy hand prints.  The powder stuff looked like someone had been smokin a tire.  After I had the bike for a couple days, I noticed that some of the nuts had been slightly rounded like the mechanics used a crescent wrench.  After a ride, I was checking bolts and noticed that the point where the shock attaches to the rocker arm looks like its been melted.  I will post a picture.  But it looks like some metal is missing like it may have dripped off. And whats left is kind of a deep dimple thats blackened and wrinkled a little.  Maybe its a dent.  But it sure looks like it was melted. 

[KXcam22]

My policy has always been to loctite bolts that go into steel and use anti-sieze on bolts that thread into aluminum or brass.  The caveat is that I loctite ALL major bolts and that includes all the linkage bolts.  You should rarely (like never) have to use heat to deactivate locktite - that is mostly for rust or corrosion. What you are describing is strange. Hope this helps. Cam.

[95formula847]

on aircraft its antisieze on aluminum and loctite everywhere else

[Dutch-K5 Fan]

I use blue loctiete 243 for alu or steel.
Than it won't come loose and won't corrode.
Green loctite 270 is the one than needs heat to come loose.


Dutch

[95formula847]

red also needs to be heated to be removed. its the highstrength. itll snap bolts sometimes if you dont heat it up

[Dutch-K5 Fan]

red also needs to be heated to be removed. its the highstrength. itll snap bolts sometimes if you dont heat it up

As far as I know is RED Loctite 542, used for hydrolics.
Can be very tight some times. Use a electric paintstripper, they get very hot. But not to hot to distroy
metal, only be carefull with sealings.


Dutchie