exhaust valves

[no sub for cubes]

just stripped my exhaust valve and cleaned,was about to reassemble and refering to the manual it states the left and right valve are diff...NOT on mine! they look identical to me,so next problem is i have no dots on the little cogs to realine them with the operating shaft groves...now im stuffed 
when reassembling in my manual it says put both valves in and then lift them slightly and push the operating shaft in..my next question is when this shaft is pushed all the way in i cannot see either of the groves on it for allignment,so if i had dots on each valve would you then have to bring the shaft back and then locate the first valve and then bring it back a bit more and locate the second valve?just asking because if its poss the valves are wrong then maybe poss this is wrong also.also what does everybody use to lubricate the exhaust valves?

                                              thanx guys

[no sub for cubes]

ok just looked at a microfiche on the interent and both the exhaust valves are the same part no so they must be identical,i still have no dots on the little cogs must of warn away i guess

[cbxracer30]

What year bike are we talking about No Subs

[no sub for cubes]

the bikes an 88 cbx,and giving me a right headache to date  ,bought it as a basket case but the motor was supposed to of been fully rebuilt,ive put it together,frame powder coated new bearings etc,had it running for all of 40mins and then showing symptons of crank seals blown  ,not too gutted cos it had a bad oil leak from the sump plug and between the cases....pulled it apart found the gear mechanism(shaft) was damaged.new one of them...gear drum not look healthy ok new one of them...hair line crack in the sump plug hole and the retainer hole for the kick start spring was also cracked so i give me case to a guy to weld,takes him 2 weeks to do this lols and although he did a good job with the welding he made a crap job of retapping the sump plug.
 Now i wish id of just bought an inset kit and done it mysely but i gave it to another guy who then takes another week and tells me he doesnt have the insert to do the job  ...so now i have given it to a well known bike shop which i should of done in the first place  ,anyways today i decided i pull the exhaust valves apart and inspect them...opened up another can of worms lols.
when i pulled my barrel off discovered the piston and bore(bearing in mind this was supposed to be a completely rebuilt motor)are both damaged,now it could of happend since i got it running but close inspection shows sign of previous attempts with wet and dry to smooth out some of these marks,and my cylinders been sleeved ...


                      GOD THAT FEELS GOOD TO HAVE A RANT 

[cbxracer30]

Ok its going to take you alot of messing with it ,but slide the exhaust valves about 3/4 way in then slide the operating shaft in and bolt it fast. The side with the extra idler gear will adjust easily without lifting the valve to adjust when the idler gear is not in , then the other you will have to lift it to adjust.start this the one without the idler and adjust it so it opens up the whole way when the shaft is out then set the other one so it looks 180 of the other one and reinsert the idler and check the operation. CBX

[no sub for cubes]

this is my 88 exhaust valve setup me thinks its diff to what your describing cbx....the cogs are showing signs of wear a spline missing on each valve cog,i was gonna just throw them back in like that but as i now have no markings and have spent time and money doing the best  i can i might as well invest in new valves as well .

[cbxracer30]

Yes yours are differrent than I thought , here on this side of the pond I don't think you can order them any more. You know what maybe I better let some else help out since I run the newer style. Sorry I couldn't help CBX

[RoostDaddy]

cbx, this is like doughboy and eddie's old set up.  Maybe we can ask one of them how they're adjusted.  I believe it is simailr to the new style, just without the gear.

[no sub for cubes]

looks like same prob here cbx,i called around breakers and main kwaka dealers only to find out the 88 valves are discontinued  ...for now i could do with someone with the same valves as me to confirm another way of setting them without the dots on the cogs,long term it looks like im gonna have to try and find a later cylinder,does antbody know if an 89 onwards cylinder will  bolt straight on?

                                           cheers

                                                cubes

[tobys 2 strokes]

Looking at your pics the valves look like they are timed like a tecate. There aren't little dots but one tooth of the gear is shorter than the rest and you line that one up .you can see that on one of you valves for sure.I think that was the way my 86 K5 was also.

[no sub for cubes]

thanks for the reply toby,you might be right,what appears to be a short tooth is where the spline is broken on the gear,both are broken the one is worse than the other,but you might be right originally it might of just been a little shorter that the rest and has become more damaged over time,it is coincidence that they have both damaged in the same postion(same tooth). so your theory might be right,there are no other markings on the valves i can see.
If i put it together and it is wrong is there any possibility it would damage anything,or will it just not run good?someone suggested if they are assembled wrong it can cause back preassure  ..

[cbxracer30]

I think a newer style cylinder will work on your motor but you would have to drill the cases for the idler gear pin not 100% sure but just think it may work and I just got off the phone with my buddy who had an 88 and he said he was going to make that upgrade but never did. CBX

[no sub for cubes]

thanks for the info cbx,i spoke with a guy who said the same thing need to drill the case,called a guy and hed just sold the last pair he had gutted! ...shame cos i have the chance to buy another 88 cylinder for 100 pounds just need replating,i might buy it anyways,stick my valves back in for now and put it back to together with my old sleeved cylinder,and keep searching for new valves,when(if) i find some, get the new cylinder plated and do the job properly.

again great sight and thankyou everybody for useful info 

[dave916]

HI THERE,   i think you should be able to look in exhaust port to line up valves without any marks, when the control rod is in full both valves should be closed [or silghty over closed if ball bearing mod not done] when rod is pulled out the should open ports in cylinder / i am going to be working on a 88 engine next tuesday so i can post pictures of the timing marks etc if you can wait till then

[no sub for cubes]

hi dave916,thanx for the reply,we have concluded that the 88 powervalves dont have the dot on the cog as timing marks,but do have one spline on the gear shorter than the rest,originally i was under the impression this dot had been worn off or i had the wrong valves in my cylinder,any how thanks to these guys i now have identified this shorter spline although they are quite severely damaged,so im able to time it back up,i was toying with the idea of putting al later jug on it because 88 valves are now discontinued and sourcing them seems to be near impossible,but like cbx informed me you need to drill out the crankcase on mine to fit a later cylinder so for now i`ll just stick me old worn valves back in and keep looking so if i can drop on some new old stock unless.......that engine your working on next week you just happened to notice it had no exhaust valve in it  and posted them to me 

 cheers everybody for their input,i will breath life into this k5 again if its the last thing i do