Riding on Ice

[Icerider]

I've seen several post, where riders would like to know more about taking a perfectly good summer vehicle and prepping it for use on a substance normally only used to chill the beer.

I don't compete and can't comment on what's legal in this area or any other. We are just a bunch of buddies who through pointy things in our tires and rub handlebars. Just wanted to share what I've learned but I'm sure there are lots of guys here with more knowlegde than me on this ( and most things).

In the early days we would just screw a sheet metal screw in each knob and go. Its better than nothing and will work on the little bikes but most just spit them out which is a real bummer for the guy behind (don't be him).

Our current tires utilize "new" rubber, with two or three street bike tires inside for a liner. Street bike tires have the side wall cut off and are bolted/screwed to our new knoby. The knoby will have its knobs tapered down on one side if you only turn one way but we prefer to go both ways( that didn't sound good). Large two and a half inch wood screws are screwed in from the side to prevent the outer knob from "wiggling" and keep it as far from the chain as posssible. Then add 800-1200 1 1/2" studs angled ahead to bit into the ice. Then try to mount a tire you can hardly lift ( yes, they are very heavy)  onto your rims. You will curse, throw things and buy at least two new tubes trying to get these mounted. Did I mention the skin you're going to lose as you slip and find out how good the new stud pattern bits? Most people buy spare rims after trying this just once, I'm slow and did it twice.

Throw in a little Slime (green stopleak for tires) to make sure that the tube doesn't have to come back out. Usually run a smaller tube cause there ain't much room in there. Baby powder (made from ground up babies) inside the tire cuts down on pinches and holes. Use lots of air pressure as you don't want any flex, drive them studs straight into the ice and keep studs away from chain, hell I'd run a solid rubber tire if I could get it mounted.

Other tips:

             Header wrap on your pipe keeps the ice/snow spray from cooling off ur pipe and messing up jetting

             Spray "shinnie" pipe with WD40 every outing to stop rust             

             Loosen lever perches, hard ice = new levers

             Lots of padding, ice hard, aim for snow bank

             Jetting, roughly, cooler needs more fuel. Manuals usually recommend turn AS out a 1/4 and up one on the clip, We've seen this right up to increasing one pilot size and 10 on the mains, you results may vary

            Use lots of good oil and be preparred to kick lots cause these thing don't always like to start in the cold.

            Wear goggles, if not, eyes water, can't see, tears freeze to head to helmet, buddies laugh

            Don't sneeze in a full face helmet and a snow machine makes a good pull starter, not to many hills to bum start on a lake

So how does this work, ______ AWESOME. Imagine turning your  half liter  dirt slinger into an R1 with racing slicks on a perfectly smooth road course. Did I mention that every snow bank can be a beverage cooler. Scraping the pegs is doable (with you still on the bike I might add) and 1st,2nd,3rd,4th and 5th gear wheelies happen every lap.

Ok, I will shutup now but must add the standard disclaimer. I'm not a professional, not an expert, dismounted without a helmet, your results may vary, and yes this to can cause four hour ________ just like those blue little pills.

Working on adding the pictures....

[KXcam22]

Icerider,
  Thats a great description.  But you missed what could be the funnest part.  Wait until a good thaw/freeze then head out on the frozen snowmobile trails.  They have a rock hard surface and miles of whoops that is a blast.  We used to take a heater and an old army tent to help get the bike going -warm them up a bit.  Brings back memories. Cam.

[Icerider]

Thx cam

That would be fun but tends to be hard on studs if there is any dirt whatsoever, but just might be worth a try.

[KXcam22]

Icerider,
  We only did it when there was lots of snow.  If you got off the snowmobile track into the snow the bike would sink instantly and you would go over the bars into the snow, which was infrequent but actually kind of fun.  This was a number of years ago. It might not work on the new trails since the new machines have so much Hp that they rip up everything they touch and leave a powdery trench behind - so the trail may not freeze like you need. Cam.

[Polar-Bus]

I've seen several post, where riders would like to know more about taking a perfectly good summer vehicle and prepping it for use on a substance normally only used to chill the beer.

I don't compete and can't comment on what's legal in this area or any other. We are just a bunch of buddies who through pointy things in our tires and rub handlebars. Just wanted to share what I've learned but I'm sure there are lots of guys here with more knowlegde than me on this ( and most things).

In the early days we would just screw a sheet metal screw in each knob and go. Its better than nothing and will work on the little bikes but most just spit them out which is a real bummer for the guy behind (don't be him).

Our current tires utilize "new" rubber, with two or three street bike tires inside for a liner. Street bike tires have the side wall cut off and are bolted/screwed to our new knoby. The knoby will have its knobs tapered down on one side if you only turn one way but we prefer to go both ways( that didn't sound good). Large two and a half inch wood screws are screwed in from the side to prevent the outer knob from "wiggling" and keep it as far from the chain as posssible. Then add 800-1200 1 1/2" studs angled ahead to bit into the ice. Then try to mount a tire you can hardly lift ( yes, they are very heavy)  onto your rims. You will curse, throw things and buy at least two new tubes trying to get these mounted. Did I mention the skin you're going to lose as you slip and find out how good the new stud pattern bits? Most people buy spare rims after trying this just once, I'm slow and did it twice.

Throw in a little Slime (green stopleak for tires) to make sure that the tube doesn't have to come back out. Usually run a smaller tube cause there ain't much room in there. Baby powder (made from ground up babies) inside the tire cuts down on pinches and holes. Use lots of air pressure as you don't want any flex, drive them studs straight into the ice and keep studs away from chain, hell I'd run a solid rubber tire if I could get it mounted.

Other tips:

             Header wrap on your pipe keeps the ice/snow spray from cooling off ur pipe and messing up jetting

             Spray "shinnie" pipe with WD40 every outing to stop rust             

             Loosen lever perches, hard ice = new levers

             Lots of padding, ice hard, aim for snow bank

             Jetting, roughly, cooler needs more fuel. Manuals usually recommend turn AS out a 1/4 and up one on the clip, We've seen this right up to increasing one pilot size and 10 on the mains, you results may vary

            Use lots of good oil and be preparred to kick lots cause these thing don't always like to start in the cold.

            Wear goggles, if not, eyes water, can't see, tears freeze to head to helmet, buddies laugh

            Don't sneeze in a full face helmet and a snow machine makes a good pull starter, not to many hills to bum start on a lake

So how does this work, ______ AWESOME. Imagine turning your  half liter  dirt slinger into an R1 with racing slicks on a perfectly smooth road course. Did I mention that every snow bank can be a beverage cooler. Scraping the pegs is doable (with you still on the bike I might add) and 1st,2nd,3rd,4th and 5th gear wheelies happen every lap.

Ok, I will shutup now but must add the standard disclaimer. I'm not a professional, not an expert, dismounted without a helmet, your results may vary, and yes this to can cause four hour ________ just like those blue little pills.

Working on adding the pictures....

I've spent the last 3 years prepping my KX500 for the ice, and heres some tips i've learned that you are missing.

1) Block of 1 radiator with cardboard. There is no thermostat, and in real cold temps temps (10 to 20F) the engine never gets up to correct temp.
2) make sure you have a steering damper if you do high speed ice running ! (or be ready for the imfamous "death swap")

3) Bring a propane torch. (ever try to kick over a kx500 at 10F ?) Heat up the engine with the torch, and kicking is WAY easier.

4) Run lots of suspension sag. It helps for rear weight transfer.

5) Wear a full face helmet with a dual lens snowmobile shield. No fogging, awesome wind protection.

6) I LOVE handlebar gauntlets to keep my hands warm, and I wear winter MX gloves.

I jet up one on the pilot, and 2 up on the main from stock, I also run 100% uncut CAM II, and Klotz R50 @ 42:1)

[Icerider]

Thanks for adding Polar-Bus. All very good points.
 
Yes I run card board, have felt the speed "warble" ( makes the lonely high speed runs more exciting) and whata mean 500s are easy to kick for northern riders its just the so-cal boys that complain right?

Also:

- keep chain nice and tight to keep it from contacting studs

- check wheel bearings and spokes regularly, the traction studs give is hard on bearings and spokes