STEERING STEM BEARING Replacement - Any Pointers?

[TheGDog]

As soon as I can get past the lump of bills coming up... I need to replace the Steering-Stem bearings on the K5.

I'm imagining it's pretty easy to figure out.  I just thought it might be smart to ask you guys if there are any helpful hints or gotchas that can help make doing the job easy and pain-free (...ish, HaHA!).

[KXcam22]

It's really easy to do.  You will need a 12" long punch to tap out the bearing races from inside the steering head.  I use a 3/8" steel shaft I found.   As a rule, never hit the new bearing parts with a hammer, always use the old bearing parts to protect the new bearing parts.  The bottom bearing on the steering stem will be destroyed to remove it - thats normal. Tap the new one on to the steering stem using the old one (minus the cage and bearings) upside down as a drift and a piece of pipe over the steering stem to hit that one.  Be nice with pics but I don't have any. Hope this helps. Cam.

[Friar-Tuck]

 Piccy's
http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/service_steering_head_bearings/index.html
   
  Freeze the races before you install them and put a worklight up on the neck to get it warm/hot . It seems silly but I need all the help I can get!
     I used all-thread rod, nuts, washers and the old bearing to pull in the new races.
The only other thing I can think of is to put the stem in the freezer for a few hrs before you go to drop on the new lower bearings. 
  I don't know how warm you can get the bearings before the grease will fall out as you drop them on the "frozen" stem.
  I  used High Temp Disc  Bearing grease, you could put the bearing in a ziplock and drop it in hot water for a few minutes right before you pulled out the "Stem-cicle"
 I did mine in the summer and put the bearings on top of the grill lid (not lit) to heat up in the sun.

  Oh, and be sure to have the seal on the bottom of the stem BEFORE you put it in the freezer... Or you could drop the bearing on and realize the seal/washer is sitting on the bench .
 and then panic as the bearing got stuck halfway off the stem.....
   and start all over       yep 
     
   Tuck\o/
   

[TheGDog]

Ok.... and um...  what size (Diameter) pipe to I need so that it fits over the old bearing race just right?

I'm only bothering to ask because I'm a first-time home-owner, and as such I don't have a built-up collection of scrap pieces from "over the years" if ya know what'm sayin.

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I like the freezer idea.  Thanks!  That's the kinda insider tips I figured you guys would be able to give me.

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As for grease... wouldn't I want to be using marine grease!?

[TheGDog]

Ooh...Ooh!!  Before I forget... since I have not yet purchase the new steering-stem bearings to replace the old ones... is there a particular aftermarket brand... and/or vendor... from whom I should be more inclined to purchase them from?


For example... a quick eBay search and this one vendor advertised MOOSE Steering stem bearing/seal kit.

I've generally thought the other MOOSE products I've used (tubes, field wrenches) were sturdy/well-made... so my thinking was I should prefer that kit.  I seem to recall the other main one I found being sold was made by ALL-BALLS.

P.S.  Thanks for the love you've been showing me!

P.S.S.  Ugh... as soon as my wife can finish with her dang online univ. classes I might actually be able to do some wrenching during the weeknights  :S

[KXcam22]

I got mine from my local industrial bearing wholesaler.  Better quality than the oem and 1/3 the price.  I read the bearing numbers off the old bearings and ordered them - came with seals a bit different than the oem but just as good.  If I recall correctly, the seal was built into the bearing.  My red bikes have a separate thin washer with a seal around the outside that goes under the bearing before you press it on. I can't speak for the moose although I am sure they are good and might be a good way to go.  There is also allballs racing.  I have used a few of their kits - chinese bearings so not the quailty of a good SKF or NTN - with good results.  Off topic: they make kits to retrofit non-tapered bearing steering heads to taperered -like my CBR900RR and my sons CRF100 - I can't believe anyone would build a motorcycle with ball bearings in a steering head. Marine grease is mucho-excellent since the main enemy of stearing head bearings is the pressure washer.  I have not had much luck with freezing the steering stem.  Here is my brute force method:

1. use a long punch to tap the old bearing off the steering stem. Take your time and don't worry about wrecking the cage. Try not to miss and gouge the aluminum stem.  You will destroy any seal that is there, that is a given.
2. remove the cage and rollers from the old bottom bearing.  You will use it upside down with the thin side pressing against the thin side of the new bearing.
3. Put the seal on the steering stem (if there is one) the slide the new bearing over the stem down as far as it will go.  Put some lube on the stem.
4. place the old cageless bearing upside down on top of the new bearing. Notice that the two thin sides touch but nicely clear the cage on the new bearing - so you don't damage it (your "drift").
5. get a approx 12" scrap pipe that is large enough to fit over the steering stem but small enough to seat nicely on the the thick side of the old bearing.
6. Tap the pipe with a hammer until the bearing seats.  You can ususally tell it is seated because the noise it makes hitting it with the hammer will change to sound more solid.
7. Top bearing is a slide fit so no issues.

Sorry no pics. Good luck. Cam.

[Friar-Tuck]

  Cam,
 I didn't think of the marine bearing grease, I'll remember that one.   I also remember a guy recommending this stuff ,however I never saw any.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=82915556&contentId=7022499

(Now that you mention it, it was the CR that I messed up and forgot the washer/seal on after I dropped the bearing on the stem and it got stuck halfway back off )

   Dawggy,
Take the old bearing with you to  home depot or the like and find the pipe section,  or look toward the back of the store for the pipe machine.
There are usually small scrap pieces where customers have employees cut and thread pipe.
   The best bet would be a pipe & supply house or plumbing house. The usually have lots of scrap in back.
            Heck, take the stem with you,  you might get lucky and  find someone to hook you up just for the sake of "Helping a Brother out".
 
  I second the SKF or Timken bearing, They all work off the same #'s.  And that goes for everything "Bearing" not just bikes.

 Tuck\o/

[KXcam22]

The Belray waterproof grease is the absolute best.  I use it on my boat prop too.  I did a test and after a day wakeboarding the belray was the only grease left on the ouside of the prop (I painted a few types on).  The others are long gone. Silly but a fun test.  I guess the main point I was trying to make was to use the old bearing as a drift.  I have ruined a few bearings by accidentally hitting the cage. Its hard to find pipe that fits the small end and is inside the cage. I have a thousand diff pipe sizes are work and none fit. Using the old bearing they almost all fit. Cam.

ps use disposalble latex gloves when you put it on as it doesn't wash off your hands without a fight.

[DoldGuy]

GDog,

Great posts above from KXCam & Tuck. I have had great success using Tucks method on all types of bearings. Heat the lower bearing and Freeze the Triple Tree. As far as the bearing races, again heat the steering head of the frame, freeze the races (I have use a long bolt and the old race to pull the race in simply but snugging the nut up) The Hot/Cold Method works Great on just about any bearing installation (Hubs, Cases, Etc.)

[GDubb]

Anyone use the Allballs kit on their K5? I need to replace mine as well but when I read the reviews at rockymountain alot of people said that the seals were too small and let water and dust in. Doesnt look like they offer any other brand on the website.

Cam... how do you find a bearing wholesaler? What would they be listed under?


-G

[kxpegger]

As soon as I can get past the lump of bills coming up... I need to replace the Steering-Stem bearings on the K5.

I'm imagining it's pretty easy to figure out.  I just thought it might be smart to ask you guys if there are any helpful hints or gotchas that can help make doing the job easy and pain-free (...ish, HaHA!).

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=531298

[GDubb]

As soon as I can get past the lump of bills coming up... I need to replace the Steering-Stem bearings on the K5.

I'm imagining it's pretty easy to figure out.  I just thought it might be smart to ask you guys if there are any helpful hints or gotchas that can help make doing the job easy and pain-free (...ish, HaHA!).

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=531298

What are the chances of ovaling the head tube with this method? Just asking because that was the first thing that popped in my head when I read it.


-G

[kxpegger]

As soon as I can get past the lump of bills coming up... I need to replace the Steering-Stem bearings on the K5.

I'm imagining it's pretty easy to figure out.  I just thought it might be smart to ask you guys if there are any helpful hints or gotchas that can help make doing the job easy and pain-free (...ish, HaHA!).

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=531298

What are the chances of ovaling the head tube with this method? Just asking because that was the first thing that popped in my head when I read it.


-G

I guess that could happen? At some point I think most people would realize that an excessive amount of force was being used and back off if the race didn't pop out. I think the originator of this method had exhausted all other options. He tried the weld method, Dremel to cut the race and tapping it out with a punch. I just offered it as a possible solution and it need not be deemed a standard.

[TheGDog]

Hrmm... thanks to the other poster for explaining what SKF was. I assume that NTN is also an abbrev. for another brand of bearing.

I assumed that these bearing would be roller bearings... is that not so!?

[Friar-Tuck]

  GDubb,
 I was under the impression AllBalls was made in China.
 I have however did use the AB's, in my kids CRF 150 before I knew the above,
 they worked fine and have just about any kit you could want.  We just trail ride so I don't know for sure how they hold up in a racing envirornment.

Tuck\o/