Author Topic: Bottom end reassembly - HELP  (Read 2166 times)

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Offline Hardcharger

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Bottom end reassembly - HELP
« on: January 08, 2009, 01:43:54 AM »
Hello to all,

I'm reassembling the motor after replacing the crank bearings on a 93 kx500.I'm using the clymer manual and I'm having difficulty getting it to shift.I have the shift forks in the correct positions(according to the manual),and I didn't mess with any of the gears on either shaft.It goes together,but the shift drum won't move.I tried switching the 4th and 5th gear forks (it shifted,but would hang up badly between gears)
Does the shift drum need to be in a certain location when the forks are installed?
Sorry for the long post,but I don't want to have to re-split the cases again.
There is an older post on here stating that there is an error with the manual (shift forks mixed up)
Anyone ever seen this problem?
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance
mike
« Last Edit: January 08, 2009, 04:36:46 AM by Hardcharger »

Offline Friar-Tuck

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Re: Bottom end reassembly - HELP
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2009, 07:14:57 AM »
Mike,                                                                 Ref #'s are Clymer M447-2 (kx500 '83 -'02)
I had a similar problem with shift/hang-up with mine.
 Ended up being a shift fork was bent (spread open too far #63 pg 284 distance between tip of b and tip of a) and "ends" were worn pretty good  [#65 pg 284].
 The Shifter pawl was bent [#8 pg255]   and the shift shaft was also  [#7 pg 281].

 I had to replace all three. When I say bent it was not like a 45 or anything, it was just a few degrees.
Roll the shift fork shaft on a piece of glass or granite etc. with a lamp or flashlight behind it. look for light underneath or use a feeler gauge to probe along it (like a spatula).
 As you roll the shaft watch the ends and middle closely to lift off the surface.
 
 The  shift pawl was "opened up", as was the shift fork, and I couldn't figure out how to close-up the inside dimension of either one and still keep them straight
so I replaced them.

 The shift forks are stamped if I recall "L" & "R", [front,left and right is determined by the position of the rider on the bike. pg4 fig 4]
     The other thing I started doing was test fitting the cases,tranny crank and all before final (sealant) assembly.  It is a pain, however it payed off in the long run.
That's an XR story for another day  :oops: Had to buy new case gaskets...(plural.. :x) and watch out for thin washers sticking to the case halfs and then falling out of place (trans shafts).
   There's another thread about inaccuracy in the Clymer, no ones perfect I guess, It has been great for me, I didn't have the sheckles for the FSM. But will try to get one!

    Please Note:  It sounds like you know what you're doing, so don't take this all wrong. It's just what happened to me.
  Tuck\o/
   
"The Truth Has No Agenda"

Offline Hardcharger

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Re: Bottom end reassembly - HELP
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2009, 11:00:27 PM »
Thanks Tuck,
I will have to look closely at all components,it's just that it shifted fine before disassembly.
I went so far as to assemble the case halves,with the shift shaft and put in the frame.Put the countershaft sprocket and chain on and spin while trying to shift.Just doesn't seem right.
mike

Offline hughes

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Re: Bottom end reassembly - HELP
« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2009, 12:39:38 AM »
Item # 92144A has caused an issue with my bike after bottom end rebuild. If you flip this spring over by mistake item # 13161A adnd 13165 will not ratch back and forth. My bike would shift once maybe twice and stop shifting. How I found this was while I was shifting the engine I was watching the item # 13161A / 13165 stop working the end of the shift drum.
Open Class 2-Stroke Kawasaki KX500
Yamaha 2005 YZ250
Richard Hughes
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Offline Hardcharger

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Re: Bottom end reassembly - HELP
« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2009, 08:26:11 AM »
Thanks Mr. Hughes,
I did try the spring in both directions,to no avail.I checked out the shift forks and shafts,as well as the shift drum groove widths.Everything within tolerance.
The only thing I'm really unclear on is what position the shift drum needs to be in when the shift fork pins are installed in the grooves.I know this must be something simple that I am overlooking.
The clymer and the shop manual do not specify anything on this.
Any input is greatly appreciated.
mike