Author Topic: stearing stem bearings  (Read 2365 times)

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Offline mysnykkx500

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stearing stem bearings
« on: September 05, 2008, 11:21:51 AM »
Will someone please tell me how to get the bottom stearing stem bearing off :x I have tried beating heating lubing prying and tomorrow i may try a small cutting wheel off a dremmel unles someone has a better Idea.. Please help
Tim

Offline fluffy

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Re: stearing stem bearings
« Reply #1 on: September 05, 2008, 01:29:42 PM »
i have used two flat chisels,each opposite the other,tappa tappa. also used a pipe wrench to move it enough to get chisels under it.takes a while,just one of them jobs that you have to keep at.

Offline KXcam22

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Re: stearing stem bearings
« Reply #2 on: September 05, 2008, 01:54:25 PM »
Fluffy has the right idea.  I just took two off last week and used same/similar method.  I used a flat screwdriver to pound into the gap to slowly widen it, then used some chisels to widen the gap until you can start hitting the bottom with a large punch.  A homemade tool that is helpful is to find a large washer that will fit over the steering stem and cut the side out to make a slot the width of the hole, so it resembles the letter C.  Then once the gap is wide enough you can slip that in to protect the bearing and use it to pound on.  It also offer a larger surface area that is easier to hit.  Forget about preserving the bottom seal it is very hard to do. Buy a new one. Cam.

ps when pressing the new bearing on it is helpful to use the old bearing's inner race (with the rollers removed) upsidedown as a protector for the new bearing, then use a piece of pipe over the stearing stem to hammer (that would be gently tap)  the whole thing on. Then the old race can be tapped back off (it will usually wedge itself on the bearing surface a bit).

Offline mysnykkx500

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Re: stearing stem bearings
« Reply #3 on: September 07, 2008, 12:20:44 PM »
Tried for over an hour started knicking the triple tree....  Got me a die grinder cut around halfway through the race inserted chisel and smacked with a hammer  :-) cracked race clean slid right off and it's still in good enough shape to use putting on the new bearing thank you all so much for your insight and help I really love this sight  8-)
Tim

Offline KXcam22

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Re: stearing stem bearings
« Reply #4 on: September 08, 2008, 05:36:53 AM »
I have done it that way too. Cam.

Offline barryadam

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Re: stearing stem bearings
« Reply #5 on: September 08, 2008, 07:25:50 AM »
After doing the same removal, I've had good luck installing a new bearing using heat & cold.
Clean up the post so there are NO nicks or dings, and hit it with a scotchbrite wheel.  Once it's wiped clean, put a THIN wee bit of neversieze on the post, and put in a plastic baggie in the freezer for a day.
Check your new bearing.  If it's got a plastic roller reatainer, you can't heat it up.  The bearing should have a metal roller cage, then you can heat it to about 250 degrees F in an oven for about 20 mins, then it just slides onto the post.  The neversieze keeps it from cocking and sticking as you slide it on.
I used the same proceedure to insatall a new stem post in the triple clamp as well.
Wipe it all up, and fill the bearing with your favorite high presure grease.  Easy, and good for another season (or two).

Now removing and replacing races in the frame tube, that's another story.  A new bearing should have it's matching, new race as well.
"I hate heli-coils. They are like hospice for motorcycle parts."- BDI

Offline KXcam22

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Re: stearing stem bearings
« Reply #6 on: September 08, 2008, 08:42:23 AM »
The races in the steelring stem come quite easily.  I use a 20" long 3/8" diam steel rod as a punch.  A piece of round bar stock will do nicely. Then is is fairly easy to tap the races out, keeping in mind to continuously alternate the part you tap around the perimeter of the bearing race.  I generally make each tap at the 4 points of the compass, alternating from side to side then top to bottom.   I rarely use heat/cold to put the bearing on the stem, I never seem to get it to work right.  For me the issue has always been how to hit the bearing on the small end without damaging the cage.  That is why I started using the old bearing (with rollers removed) upside down since then the 2 surfaces usually match.  That cleaning point is really important and helps the bearing go on much easier. Cam.