Clutch Change

[TheGDog]

Requesting ordering information on the Magura Hydro you mentioned!  Pleasey-please!

In the meantime... I've yet to use my ARC-welder... That 8mm extension sounds like a good easy project to try for a 1st-timer.  I'll just make sure to do a ton of practice welds with that similar thickness steel before attempting it.

I didn't really think much about my clutch pull until the crash.  This other (total Newbie) dude who rides a CRF250X was all saying "his clutch lever feels like there's something wrong!" or something like that when he was trying to get the bike into neutral so he could load it into the other guys truck when they fetched me from the desert floor.

I'm pretty sure my clutch is fine. I went to give the lever a squeeze the other day and it seemed to actuate fine, the way I remember. So I figure he just was trippin' since his lil' 250 probably has a girly-man clutch pull.

But checking the feel at the lever did make me notice that it does require an awfully strong pull.  Something definitely needs to be done there.

[Hillclimb#42]

Motosprot outlet has the magura clutch pull. Its the lever, perch, the line, and the actuator. You use the same arm down on the case. You'll think its not even working when you pull it in until you see it moving the arm. Heads up though, it comes with a plastic line that melts pretty easy on exhaust.  They also sell a replacement line that is braided steel for like 30 bucks that is very sweet. Also can get shorty lever.  1-877-674-3571

[barryadam]

Have any of you found a good way to remove the needle bearings for the actuator arm from the dead end pocket in the LHS case?  Back when I rebuilt my motor with all fresh bearings, I remember not being able to find a solution (including several dealers) and ended up taking the cases to a machine shop.

Anyone come up with any good methods for this?

[don46]

I was looking for a tool as well, Ultimately I ended up making my own. I used a bolt that was 1/2" cut the head off and  came in just from the end and machined it down to 12mm, on the threaded end I drilled a 3/16" hole almost all the way through the bolt, from the other end I drilled a 1/16" hole till it met up with the other, then I slit the bolt so I had 4 slits. then I took a 1/8" rod pointed one end and slipped it into the 3/16" holeand left a little extending out the bolt. I made a collar that would fit a old slide hammer and the bolt.   So you push the bolt through the bearing till the little lip has passed through the bearing, then when you tighten the slide hammer, collar, bolt it pushes the rod down through the bolt causing the split end to expand, then I heated up the area around the bearing and used the slide hammer to remove the bearing. Worked like a charm.

[Hillclimb#42]

The tool is called a "blind hole bearring puller" it is basically a rod and at the end it has a nut that you tighten which spreads the bottom, then a small version of a slide hammer on the upper half yanks it out. Locate a guy that has that tool and you find a guy that probably has every tool. Its pretty simple to get out the top bearring, but the bottom one definately needs that tool.

[don46]

The tool is called a "blind hole bearring puller" it is basically a rod and at the end it has a nut that you tighten which spreads the bottom, then a small version of a slide hammer on the upper half yanks it out. Locate a guy that has that tool and you find a guy that probably has every tool. Its pretty simple to get out the top bearring, but the bottom one definately needs that tool.

I have that tool, unfortunately it won't reach the bottom bearing, which is why I  made the tool.