someone in a post a while back mentioned mcmaster-carr [Ive ordered a lot from them in the past I just forgot the fact that they carry just about any widget u can think of]
about using some vibration isolators that they have for replacing the busted pipe mounts.
I got em and the rock. There way better made then the orginal and about 1/3 the price. what i did is clean the old rubber off the bracket that attaches to the frame and drill a hole for the isolator stud in it.Then u just bolt it all up. I got the hardest rubber they had [durometer 70] and its really stiff. might be better to try 60.
And I forgot mcmaster has all the orings u want.
I went to lowes[hardwarestore] to buy that ridiculously fat oring that someone suggest use as a replacement for the countershaft oring. When I first saw i was like this cant be right. But I bought em anyway , which was before i remembered to check mcmaster-carr. After seeing that there was no way that oring would be ideal, I found the right ones.
Mcarr pn#: 9452 K75
they go by dash numbers which is a 021 [AS568A]
all the orings in the kx seem to be 1/16 diameter
The ones for the cylinder power valve related parts are:
9452 K71 [dash 017] - for the plugs on the exhaust valve
9452 k58 [dash 014] - for the plug that seals the rack that slides and moves the valves.
this plug also has the chevron seal in the inside that comes in the gasket kit. I dont know why the kit doesnt have the orings.
Dont have the part number for the oring on the water jacket elbow that sticks out, i never bothered to take it off. But shouldnt be too difficult to find the right one.
Also the E clips on the rack.
pn# 97431 A280 - black phosphate steel retaining ring for 3/16 diameter shaft. 100ea/pk for $2.83
Mcarr beats the crap out of OEM prices.
I would like to thank the dude for refreshing my memory on Mcmastercarr.
on a side note, I hate that tool for the flywheel weight on the KX. its the wimpy steel bar that has a 1/2 drive square cut out in it. Problem is is that it needs to be exactly twice as thick. With my breaker bar the d**n thing near wrung the hole out tring to remove it.
Im gonna try to find some scrap laying around and beef it up before i reinstall it.
And what about putting red locktite on the rotor shaft? I read that its good idea to dab some on before installing to make it easier for removal the next time but is kinda backwards thinking to me. I do notice some corrosion on most rotors Ive taken off in the past. I know antiseize is not good coz that can squish out over time. maybe some dinitrol av15.
