Attacking...

[teamgreen500]

The most common reason for the average trail rider to get hurt/fall down is...their butt. Yup, Rearendus Maximus. We all spend way too much time sitting down.  

I know some of us are too cool for school; however, there are a lot of folks that just like to cruise the trails and that's who I'm trying to talk to. And, how many of you fast guys have worn "Bottoms" on your riding pants? Gee, is that from standing up? Your "knees" should be the first part of your pants to wear-out .

  Ever get tossed on your rear because you hit a bump or rock and the bike, basically, just throws you off (Or so it seems...)?

  Try this: Go over some bumps sitting down and then go over them again, standing up. Notice that your kidneys like the standing method!

Try and think of the posture you see the pro's using in motocross. Slightly hunched over, arms/elbows-up, knees bent and ABSORB the bumps. Any picture of Bubba or R.C. (Inside of any Dirt-Bike mag...) and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Believe it or not, you can usually get a lot farther over the front of the bike than you'd believe. Look at R.C. as he enters a "Whoop" section. And he rides farther "Back" than most! Larocco is a pretty average guy when looking at the "front to back/getting forward" issue. For off-road, look at photos of Ty Davis, Brian Brown or Johnny Campbell. Sometimes, out in the Desert, these guys get WAAAYYY up on the front of the bike.

There's a "Head-On" picture that pops up in the "Member Photo" box, every now and then, that shows this posture perfectly! It's a rider coming at you in a rather menacing looking attack stance...perfect! If someone knows how to get it and add it, please, post it here:



Look hard and you'll see that he could hit a nasty bump or ledge and just slam right over/through it! He's attacking the terrain. He's not letting the bike throw him around. HE's riding IT: It is NOT riding HIM!

Sitting down is for relaxing in the smooth sections or for getting your "Center of Gravity" lower...as in a turn...and you get right back up as you exit.

Other than that...you need to learn to "Stand for Something"!

Manny

[Paul]

Viola! Thats Rick's boy Matt and it is text book attack position.

[Paul]

Note the position in my avatar I'm on the attack myself

[teamgreen500]

Paul,

Can you add your Avitar picture right below Rick's kid's. The "1/4" angle helps to further explain the point.

Thanks,

Manny

[Paul]

Done

[mikesmith]

Another thing you can do to help keep the attack position with "elbows up" is to over grip the throttle,otherwise to run WFO with out over gripping your elbow drops.You want your elbow to stay up,over grip so your elbow doesnt drop as you open it up.I also like to ride with my hands turned inward on the grips as it makes my elbows go up.When you ride most of the time you should be on the balls of your feet,it gives you more control,suspension and allows you to react faster.I never was sure why some boots have a replaceable area on the boot sole by your heel/arch?That shouldnt be the area for the most wear.

[John]

The riding position is really the key to the whole riding experience, elbows out, stand up, squeeze the tank with your knees and all!

Maybe this is kind of low level basics but it is still useful information.

The angles of your arms changes when you stand up as opposed to sitting down. When standing up on the bike yore arms are in a steeper angle relative to the ground.

Tip 1; adjust the brake and clutch lever so your fingers (when resting on the levers) are in a straight line with your arms when standing up (possible even pointing slightly down) - rather than in a straight line when sitting down. The levers will be pointing more towards the ground. It might feel a bit strange until you get used to the feeling but it is worth it. This will also lessen the fatigue in your arms when you?re riding standing up, which is not a bad thing.

Tip 2; unless you already have loosened the levers on the handle bar, you should. Ideally, it should be possible to turn the levers on the handle bar with hand force. If they are somewhat loose, in most cases it will stop them from braking when you hit the dirt. They will just twist around the handle bars.
 
/John

[rhinogrrrl]

Now THIS is what I was talking about when I asked to add a "riding techniques section"!    Isn't this fun?!!

Some info is totally new to some...and other things we all know but we all can get lazy...so definitely add your knowledge!  

[Paul]

Yeah, its fun but I look like a flag on that beast

[Rick]

Yup, if you can't see your front number plate from your peripheral vision, you're not standing far enough forward.  On the levers, if your running stock levers, wrap a few turns of teflon tape around the bar before you install the perch.  Make sure the teflon tape extends just outside the edges of the perch, and then put loctite on the threads of the perch bolts.  Tighten the bolts so the lever will turn with a little pressure, but stay in place as you pound the whoops.  This will help the lever spin in a crash.  

Also, in the correct standing position, your levers should be much lower on the bar, and actually be awkward to use in the seated position.  My levers are mounted at about 70 degrees from parallel to the ground, and my sons give me a hard time about the position.  However, I have found that by moving the levers lower, it forced me to have the correct attack position, so I have just grown acustomed to the low levers.  

Manny is 100% correct.  Improve your riding position, and you'll have an easier time staying on the bike.  I wear out the insides of my knees so quickly on new pants, that I have a local leather shop sew a light leather piece right over the top of the kevlar knee piece on the inside of each leg.  I still wear through the leather, but at least it takes a couple of months.

Rick

[Torch654]

My 2C, as one of those lazy trail riders   Your arms will not get tired as badly if you remember to think about holding the bike with your knees and don't have a death-grip on the bars all the time.

[FIVE-HUNGE]

I take it most of you guys are from the western half of the country. Over here in the northeast if you use the standing technique, your head will be sheared off about 75% of the time. Lots of nasties at head height over here...I do agree with standing when possible, but at the same time going from sitting to standing  constantly in woods situations wears you out pretty quick. I've learned to "sit down ride" as good as stand up because I have to out here. I've learned alot about saving energy and sit down riding techniques by watching gncc pro's. I used to be very against sitting down until I saw some of the fast pro's do it with results.

[hughes]

Some really good info and I agree. I also agree with five-hunge about learning to ride seating with the use of body english. Here in Georgia tree limbs will take your head off. I may be wrong but most of your out west boys run in 4th - 5th gear at w.o.t. here in Georgia I am lucky to get out of second gear. Keep the tips coming. The GNCC boys know how to run in the woods.

[rocky]

I have tried riding standing up and it seems like the bike just wants to run out from under me. I see some guys just ripping it up standing i just can't seem to get the hang of it or I'm doing something wrong.

[KXcam22]

Rocky,
  Try experimenting with weighting the pegs to turn-it work pretty good.  The KX turns quite nicely by standing and weighting the inside peg. I generally stand for the entire ride and just drop onto the seat at the apex of extremely tight corners. Big corners I stand and rail.  Also, turning the bar clamps around so the bars are offset forward helps get your weight a bit more forward. Cam.