Author Topic: CYLINDER CLEANUP  (Read 4097 times)

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Offline monster malibu

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CYLINDER CLEANUP
« on: August 19, 2007, 12:57:44 AM »
Hey guys, I'm in need of some help. When my bike calfed, the piston looks like it started melting and left a thin aluminum trail on the inside of the cylinder. How do I clean the cylinder up for reassembly? I was told I could use muric acid, does this sound right? I'm waiting for my Clymer bike manual to set the KIPS to the correct position, and I figured I'd work on getting the cylinder wall cleaned up while I wait.

« Last Edit: August 22, 2007, 03:41:27 AM by hughes »

Offline kaw rider

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Re: CYLINDER CLEANUP
« Reply #1 on: August 19, 2007, 03:39:03 AM »
that's what they say.

Offline hughes

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Re: CYLINDER CLEANUP
« Reply #2 on: August 22, 2007, 03:41:48 AM »
Muric acid (not sure how it is spelled,sorry) works great for removing alumn from cast iron sleeves but I have never tried it on a plated clyinder. I have used it many time to remove almun from sleeves in marine engines. Keptsoapy water mix in a bucket and would wash the clyinder out every few minutes. This acid will attack all almun parts so the soapy water mix comes in handy. I mix the acid 50/50 with water. I used small wire brushes and tooth brushes the tooth brushes don't last long with the acid.
Open Class 2-Stroke Kawasaki KX500
Yamaha 2005 YZ250
Richard Hughes
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Offline monster malibu

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Re: CYLINDER CLEANUP
« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2007, 04:20:12 AM »
I found the acid at the hardware store, it's called MURIATIC ACID not muric acid, my fault. I'm getting ready to clean the cylinder and will use the 50/50 idea to start, I've got brushes and a garden hose ready if needed. As soon as my CLYMER repair manual gets here I can adjust the KIPS, assemble the bike and  RIDE!!! Bow season is just around the corner, there won't be much time to ride then. Thanks for the help guys, Bob.

Offline Danger4u2

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Re: CYLINDER CLEANUP
« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2007, 04:39:51 AM »
Think safety, use eye protection when using muriatic acid.
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Offline monster malibu

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Re: CYLINDER CLEANUP
« Reply #5 on: August 22, 2007, 05:33:05 AM »
Well I cleaned my cylinder and the aluminum trails are gone, and so is some of the coating. There are actually wear marks in the cylinder were the aluminum trails were, so I need to find a place to have my cylinder recoated. What do you guys recommend? I was thinking about calling LA SLEEVE, or US CHROME. Should I send the new piston with the cylinder when it gets replated?

Offline hughes

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Re: CYLINDER CLEANUP
« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2007, 05:53:26 AM »
lukesracing.com they have pistons is stock last time They replated mine. They paid for return shipping.
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Offline kaw rider

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Re: CYLINDER CLEANUP
« Reply #7 on: August 22, 2007, 08:45:22 AM »
max power
us chrome

Offline monster malibu

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Re: CYLINDER CLEANUP
« Reply #8 on: August 22, 2007, 01:03:51 PM »
What type of coating should be applied to my cylinder?

Offline Hillclimb#42

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Re: CYLINDER CLEANUP
« Reply #9 on: August 22, 2007, 11:56:19 PM »
 Electro fuse or its also called Nicacell. Sry, not sure about spelling. Anyone rebuilding motors or re-sleeving will know exactly what you need. They hone the cylinder and then fill the cylinder back to oem spec with the electrofuse coating. You really only need to take the cylinder to them. Top end kit is pretty cheap and several local people will probably be able to help you out. The damage is common to cylinder and will be fine. You want that coating. It is very resistant to wear. The piston being a softer aluminum usually takes more damage than the cylinder. The thing that you may shop for is the turn-around. Some places can get it done weeks before others.
 When that comes back, coat bearings and cylinder in 2-stroke oil before assembly. Take the new piston all the way down to get the jug on it. Don't twist the jug to get it on the piston. It helps to have an extra helper hold jug while youy keep the rings tight. Once the rings are in the cylinder, you can use the kicker to get the piston into it farther and then its time to get it all back together. Its also good idea to torque all motor bolts and re-torque after a good warm-up and cool down cycle. I warm a fresh motor and let it cool a few times, before a break in ride. Then I take it easy for a tank of gas. Let it cool one more time and then give her hell from there on. Good Luck!

Offline hughes

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Re: CYLINDER CLEANUP
« Reply #10 on: August 23, 2007, 12:45:44 AM »
I always wash the cylinder with soapy water and wash cloth just to ensure no debri is left in the clyinder after the re-plating process. You can blow dry with shop air then coat the cylinder with 2-stroke oil to prevent rust.
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Offline Danger4u2

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Re: CYLINDER CLEANUP
« Reply #11 on: August 23, 2007, 01:46:00 AM »
I searched around on the net and Kawasaki calls their coating an Electrofusion coating.  I don't know if Nikasil (from what I was told pronounced Nick-a-sil I've been pronouncing it Ni-ka-sil) coating is the same.  Might be the same just a brand name thing.  I'll ask the guys at House of K when they open, got to get to work, later,
Danger



Electrofusion Cylinder

 

 Improves heat transfer for consistent power output.
 It?s porous so it holds lubrication well and it?s hard so it resists abrasion and seizure.
 Allows closer engine tolerances for more horsepower.


Lots of info here:

http://www.hallbergs.net/kx500/#30
KX 500 Rider

Offline hughes

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Re: CYLINDER CLEANUP
« Reply #12 on: August 23, 2007, 02:22:06 AM »
Eletrofusion is the process for the coating. Nickasil is the material they eletrofuse to the cylinder. That's my take on it.
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Offline Danger4u2

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Re: CYLINDER CLEANUP
« Reply #13 on: August 23, 2007, 04:34:05 AM »
I'm not indorsing this company, I found them searching around.  I called them and the guy says no problem doing a KX cylinder.  They do Harley stuff all the time.  Nikasil is a trade marked name, I guess that's why Kawasaki calls it Electrofusion Coating.  Their link I'm posting is a good read even if you don't use them.
http://www.928motorsports.com/services/uschrome.html
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