Author Topic: Handle Bar Height  (Read 2899 times)

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Sharc

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Handle Bar Height
« on: August 08, 2003, 02:44:03 AM »
I'm 5'10" and seems like the stock bars on my K5 are a little low. I'd like to experiment with lots of different bends, but not sure how I'd do that...Any input on handlebar success stories...?

Thanks

 :lol: Sharc :roll:

Offline Paul

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Handle Bar Height
« Reply #1 on: August 08, 2003, 09:38:50 AM »
Hey Sharc, I'm 5'11" and I use the Pro Taper KX Hi with the Fastway aluminum riser bushings instead of the stock rubber ones. Thats with the universal mounts for the Pro Tapers, not the ones that will replace the stockers.

Rick

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Handle Bar Height
« Reply #2 on: August 11, 2003, 08:40:25 AM »
Actually, there is more to handlebar geometry than how tall the bar is in the clamps at the zero position.  Something also worth considering is the rake, which is the measure of how far the bars bend back from perfectly parallel to center.

I am 6'5", so taller than most folks.  I ride the and extremely tall Pro Taper bar (don't remember which bend, maybe the Jimmy Button bend) on custom towers that raise the bars one inch over stock.  I like a bar that is more on the flat side, and ride with the bars turned upward past the zero point for several reasons:

1. Since I stand about 80% of the time, I steer with my body more than with my arms, as my arms are more often than not at a right angle to the bars, which would require a lot of force to turn the bars with my arms.  I ride so far over the front of the bike that my clutch lever is almost pointing to the ground.  Folks that ride my bike often hate the clutch and front brake placement.
2. I ride with a stabalizer, ALWAYS!.  With the Scotts dampener, I have a lot less risk that front end impacts will toss me on my head.  Without a dampener, I would never consider riding with the bars turn up much past zero, as this will increase headshake.
3. Because of my height, turning bars up helps ensure I do not bend excessively at the waist, which helps with fatigue on multiday races and rides.

As a final note, purchase Pro Tapers, as they will outlast any conventional set of bars.  We have tried almost every set of bars known to man, as sponsors paid the bill for our testing.  In the end, I really did not care how much the bars cost, nor who paid the bill, as I do not relish a DNF or poor finish caused by bent bars in a race I have driven 2000 miles round trip to attend.  I actually have two extra sets of Pro Tapers on the wall in the van that have never been used, as I am still using the bars I installed three years ago.

The way to determine the best bar for your riding style is to try several differnt bars with differnt adjustments.  If you sit more than stand, you will a bar with more rake than if you stand more than sit.  You also no doubt like the bar adjusted close to zero if you sit quite a lot, as rotating the bars upward would flatten the bars, and allow less control.  Take a look at the spec sheets at your local parts house, and compare the specs to your current bar.  Try and determine what you like and dislike about your current bar, as this will help you identify a better bar for your riding style.

Good luck in your quest.

Rick

Offline John

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Bar length
« Reply #3 on: August 12, 2003, 04:04:03 AM »
A good rule of thumb - which I practice anyway.

Use a hack saw and cut of the ends so that the whole handle bar end-2-end is the same length as your underarms when you hold your knuckles against each other (fists closed). This will give you a better riding position i.e. elbows out and lessen the fatigue in your upper arms. If you are unsure about this, try it out on a cheeper (original) handle bar before you cut the expensive gear to pieces.

/John

sdkx500

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Handle Bar Height
« Reply #4 on: August 12, 2003, 04:16:28 AM »
Hey Sharc... If i remember right your are in San Diego area right?  If you are in the neighborhood u can check out my kx high protaper setup with Dh1 racing mount.