Levers/handgaurds - the age old question

[c-152]

I am rough on levers as I frequently ride in areas (legally and with permission) that are real tight or have no trail at all.  I have a set of acerbis all plastic wrap around handgaurds and they do not work at all.  They are to flexible to really protect the levers.  My question is, has anyone used the more expensive gaurds with the steel ribs or do they just bend up as well.  I always keep a spare set of levers in my truck but it doesnt help when you are in the middle of the woods (I know I need to keep it in my tool kit on my bike). 
Thanks for any help I just do not like plunking down money on parts that aren't worth it before I check them out.
I know the simple solution would be to stop running into trees but what fun would that be

[hughes]

I run real tight stuff and I got the hand guards with the metal wrap around and they work great. I have never busted a lever due to hitting a tree, I have had to replace the plastic sheilds due to some impacts but the metal wrap around has never let me down worth the money buy them.

[c-152]

Thanks Hughes, sounds like thats what I need

[5dracing]

Look at the Bark busters or any of the spinoffs of them. I have the maier copies on the 5000 and my son had them on his 85. He was good for breaking a leaver every ride. They attach to the upsweep of the bar and then in the end of the handlebar. I filled my bars with a desnse silicone before i put them on and it helped take some of the vibs away.

[ebers17]

I just installed the MSR Hawkins Hand Guards, the fit and room for levers is really nice, and all my control placement stayed how I like it without having to move something because of cables and such.
My 2 cents

[Friar-Tuck]

Here's a few sites to check out with handguards.
I had gotten the mooseracing for the boys and they never broke another lever.
They were about $40.00 if I remember correctly. The deciding factor was not all
the broken levers. My oldest hit a tree and smashed his fingers behind the lever.
Had I had any forsight that would have been avoided. 
 The lever broke and he had to limp back home with hurtin' fingers and no clutch.
 I have the cycra's on my bikes and will go with either a tripleclamp mount or the woodsblaster all the way across the bars jobber for my next purchase.
 I did seem to have a problem with the fit and lever placement on the cycra racer pac. I cut my bars to 28" and thats where the fitment prob came in.
 I think once you try the  handguards w/aluminum frame you'll wonder how you ever got on w'out 'em. I remember having brush snag my front brake and really tickin' me off 
 My .02
Tuck\o/
http://store.cycraracing.com/trclmopr.html

http://www.mooseracing.com/catalog.jsp?level1=1359&level2=1377&level3=1379&level4=1411&category_id=1411

http://www.woodsblaster.com/

[c-152]

Thanks again for the info - those sites are great

[ebers17]

I've used the Cycra pro bends before too, and I had problems with cables and stuff as well with them. 
Before I had the Cycra's I had a pair of the moose ones with no bend in them, and I would constantly have one come loose and spin around (you'll know what I'm talking about if you've hit the ground hard or something and they twist out of place) or something always going wrong. 
On my 250 last year I used the Fastway F.I.T hand guards, that comes with the top bar mount that you bolt them too, they worked great because there's no way for them to really to come loose and spin, BUT the only issue I had with them is after one good wack, it actually twisted the metal, and after alot of tugging and clamping in the vice to try to get it back to normal, it was always a little tweaked and I had to run my front brake lever in a position I didn't really like because of it. 
And like I said, I'm trying out the MSR hawkins hand guards right now, and fitment was the best I've used so far and the roomiest ones too!  I'll know in the long run how they hold up.