Break In Secrets.

[TaKeN]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


I just found this page, after some googling and i'm wondering if anyones tried it,

It seems like a similar Break in as " Doordies " Method.


If anyone here has tried it,

Did you get better compression ?

Less Wear ?

More Power ?

[martinfan30]

Does every one here use Doordies break-in proceedure? Is this really sufficient for a perfect break-in on my new engine?

700 bucks worth makes me just wonder.

[martinfan30]

No takers?

[mdw471]

Pat, the guy from Mototune, has had Honda RR motors tore down under factory protest because his privateer motors dyno better!

Dude knows his stuff, but he also explains that the reason his break-in works is because of modern manufacturing procedures as well as materials.

Maybe a better question.....Does anyone know if the barrel coating on a KX5 is similar to the materials used on modern 4S and whether or not a 'sloppy' two stroke is assembled tight enough to seat the rings the mototune way?

Mark

[Billua]

I broke my HD in that way, I would not break a 2S in that way though...

[kaw rider]

if you have fresh plating then you might what to take the proper step on breaking in. Had a max power plate job that didn't seat rings.

[kaw rider]

Doug here you go

The idea of the Lawnboy or chainsaw oils is that they are ashless, that means phosphate free. Phosphates are what causes the cylinder to glaze under no load conditions. High octane race fuel has a ton of phosphate. so best to avoid it during break in. 87 oct. no lead, while not phosphate free has much less.

from max power site.

For 4-Stroke engines we recommend high quality petroleum based motorcycle oil. Many of the non-synthetic OEM engine oils work well and allow the rings to seat quickly. Do not use full synthetic or semi-synthetic oils for break in they are too slippery and keep the rings from seating on the bore. For 2-Stroke engines we recommend Yamalube R mixed at 32:1, we have no confidence in wild 50:1 or 80:1 claims by oil manufacturers. Oil is cheap and piston and cranks are not.

Did your plating look like this. This engine was put together to check everything. The top end was installed with the piston rings on the piston inside of a lightly oiled bore. I rotated the crankshaft a few times and started to notice this pattern. Just from hand movement of the crankshaft the plating started to score.

[kaw rider]

Or was it this bad.

[DoldGuy]

K-R,
It looks very much like the first photo pictured as it has the same pattern above the transfers & the exhaust boost ports although that doesn't look like a K5 cylinder. I measured the ring thicknes at .046 & the ring width @ .136 at many locations (even were the marks correspond) and appears to have NO wear. I don't have a dial bore gauge to measure the diameter of the cylinder to confirm it does or doesn't have high spots in the plating, but after checking the ring width & the amount of light visible with the ring installed in the cylinder I would think it is the plating &     not the rings. I will order another set of rings & check with also having the bore checked for high spots / out of roundness. This motor has maybe 4 hours on it & judging by the amount of compression it has when starting (I will NOT try to start without my MX boots even with the Compression Relase) never would have thought the rings were not seated. This plate job was from Max Power & I paid a very high cost on this one & will call them to get their response & will post. As previously posted this motor has great bottom & mid (I don't know how) with very modest topend, hoping this will be a huge difference when corrected.
DoldGuy

[Goat]

My method is basically identical to mototune's method. Only difference is I start the bike warm it to normal temps, shut it down, check all head and cylinder bolts/studs and check the spark plug. Once my check is done I start and warm the engine again then ride it like I would normally ride it. Never blown or seized an engine in the 16 years I've been wrenching on bikes/sleds. I also always run 32:1 mix, and don't run synthetic for at least 40 hours of run time, Premium pump gas with no additives until 40+ hours of run time then I will add Outlaw octane boost. I change my oil frequently. Usually every 2 rides depending on conditions.

People have always b!tched at me for doing break in this way because it wasn't by the book. I hate "taking it easy" and when I would rebuild my engines everything looked cleaner and the pistons would last longer when I broke it in my way. I'm glad to see someone else actually did some research to show it works.

[royceymon@hotmail.co.uk]

Hi Guys
           i agree with the taking not too easy on the run in , ive always been brought up to believe if its gonna pop it will do it very early on ,on my 4ts it a cheap almost "cutting oil " otherwise running fully snynth from new/rebuild it will glaze the bore also running real slow will encourage a lazy motor .
on the 2t front i wouldnt run 32:1 , too rich for me 40:1 seems to work for me at the end of the day not only is the oil for lube but for cooling properties anything less than 40:1 and your asking for trouble. at the other end of the scale too much oil to extremes will run week(less fuel through the jet) the most important for me is good warm up from cold then at the end of the day 2t or 4t there racing bikes and within reason should be run accordingly.
i always make sure the ports on 2ts well chamfered/rounded seems to stop the scuffs to a certain degree ,alot of the pistons are mass produced id check for any rough skirts and overall quality before i pop the pot back on , i had my boys kx85 where the kips sliding bit hit the piston!!! worth a check me thinks..in 30 years only had one blow up and that was on a suzuki x7 when the crank snapped in half!!

[jonny500]

royceymon, i have always been told to take it easy but usually cant control my self and give a fist full within the first 30mins or so to see how the motor is. i have never had a problem. so suppose i am in the middle some where on this 1. i am about to rebulid my k5 motor and the cost will be around the ?1000 mark for the motor alone. thats new piston, conrod, nicosil, mains and all bearings in the gearbox. i have uptill now been telling my self that when the time comes to run this in im gona have to control my self. what this guy says makes sense to me. but i know that when running an engine in the enemy is heat, when the piston is new it is bigger, there for more likley to nip up in the bore. my usual practice is the find a large area and get the bike in to top gear and run around in a massive circle at about half throttle trying to keep a reasonable load on the motor. the thoery being that i have lowish revs with a high speed so more air going through the rads keeping it cool. whats your thoughts on my method
by the way royceymon, your signature photo, is that donington

[royceymon@hotmail.co.uk]

Hi Jonny
            the photos an old one from cusses gorse , local track at salisbury( bout 4 years ago) tryied to chnge it to this resent one but couldnt work out how to!
yeah i think the larger the bore the hotter they get ,i would try to split it up into 15 min + runs alowing time to cool , on my old 2t i would wait until the pipe was warm before riding although not letting it idle as oiling plugs was a pain in the bum, running up and down the gears at various revs would be good top and slow could glaze the bore , i dont think giving it quick burst (when warm ) would hurt generaly i found you could feel if the motor was tight and didnt like to rev and just gave it a bit more time. making sure the ports edges are super smooth is always good on a big old 500 pot , i always prelube it all with 2t when building to make sure that first bang is lubed and not dry!

[royceymon@hotmail.co.uk]

still having trouble with the photo!!

[Goat]

I put close to $2000 into my engine last winter. Ran the crap out of it for 4 hours the first time out and still have the same compression now as I did when I put it together. I figure I have 100 hours if not more on it so far. Not a single problem.