how to keep bike from flooding

[robert40215]

I have got the it to stop flooding and I got it to kick over once today.

[BigGreenMachine]

Cool, more we all know about your KX the easier it will be for us to give advice.

Well man it sounds like the first thing you need to do is clean that carb completely and fill the bike with fresh gas. Sounds like you fouled a plug and have a gummed up carb.

LOL It kicks back huh? Sounds too advanced on the timing.

[5dracing]

If it starts flooding again you may want to check to see if the floats have a pinhole in them.

Just a thought.

[hughes]

Just a new idea. You are most likely flooding the engine while you are trying to start it, getting the plug to wet. These things can be a little tricky to start. For my bike pilot jet size and idle mixture screw adjustments helped big time plus learning how to start the bike. There is another post about how to start the bike check it out. My bike sat for 3 months went riding this past sunday and bike started on the third kick. It's a learning curve for starting these bikes.

[Friar-Tuck]

I would surely heed Big Green Mach. advise and give the innards of the carb a proper cleaning, along with the fuel tank and fuel line.
I believe you had the carb off to replace the inlet valve, and cleaned out the bowl. There are diagrams of the carb at Sudco.com
 and if you have the patience to follow the links at Kawasaki.com
 Remove the choke plunger (14mm small brass nut at base of choke knob)
 Main Jet  (6mm)
 Pilot  Jet  (small standard blade screwdriver)
 Note the #'s stamped on the Main & Pilot and write them down.
(save's time later)
CAUTION !!   DO NOT try to remove the smooth brass tube that extends from the inside of the carb body to approx 1/3 of the way down into the bowl, or the overflow tube in the bowl.
 
On the out side of the carb there are two screws.
 The Knurled plastic one with the spring extending at an  angle down is the Idle speed adjustment.
 [if you have a small ruler measure the distance from the head of the screw to where it enters the carb body. This is not overly criticle, it's adjustable, and while you get her dialed in you will need to change its position]

The other small brass screw is just to the rear of the inlet side of the carb (choke side, where the carb boot attaches to the air box)
 This is the air screw. The end of this screw is easily damaged, be careful. remove it and the spring (inbound).
 Blast all the openings several times, most of the passages are small and easily gummed up. Refrain from running wire & such through them,
 compressed air and cleaner should do the trick.
 Keep the parts in a ziploc or tub to keep them together.
When you are ready to re-install every thing, care must be taken installing the air screw.
Slowly intall the air screw (with spring) until it gently seats (bottoms out) to much force and the end may be damaged.
 Back the screw OUT one and a half to two turns
[depending on model].

And since you've got the carb off...six more 8mm bolts will take out the reeds and check for splits,chips or the reeds not lying flat against the reed block. This all sounds like a major operation but its about two hours to remove and check all these things out.
  Some the other things affecting carbuertion are altitude and ambient air temp and humidity, modifications and oil/fuel ratio,clean air filter, fresh plug,etc.etc .
 There are several good links in the jetting sticky. It may seem to be all greek at first, hang in there and before you know it you friends will be asking you for advice. (ie.Gowen)
 Don't get discouraged, my best friend spent a month trying to get his '99 running, carburation, electronics,fuel ratio and on and on.
 When the bike did start it would run a moment or two and then just die.
Ten to fifteen minutes kickin and would fire up and die again.
( I almost got that thing for hundred bucks)
 His last resort was a complete ignition and wiring harness off ebay.
When he went to install them Lo and behold...
The woodruff key had sheared of and the flywheel was spinning on the crank. Sometimes it would be close enough to get the bike to fire and then would slip and the dern thing would die.
  This link will help understand what all the carb does and how it works.  http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/carbtuning.html
Have patience, good luck.
Tuck \o/