Suspension Upgrade

[jolly green thumper]

Would like to upgrade the suspension during the winter months on the front and rear end of my 2003 KX500. Has anyone used the valve kits and springs made by Race Tech, and do these items make a large improvement in the performance. Rear stock suspension is OK, but not happy at all with the front end despite numerous adjustments, and replacing the oil.  No comparison to my YZ450(sorry to all die hard KX riders).Also can anyone recomend a good enduro computer and where to purchase one.

Mike

[FPMXer]

For top notch Kayaba suspension work, I recommend sending it out to ENZO Racing. Ross used to work for Kayaba and is an expert. Ross did the suspension on my 06' KX450F and it's awesome. The faster the bike goes no matter what you ride over it gets smoother and jumping the bike it's like landing on a cloud. I paid $425 for a revalve and that included new bushings and seals also. Check out their web site....www.enzoracing.com But if your a DIY person then go for it.

[Polar-Bus]

Would like to upgrade the suspension during the winter months on the front and rear end of my 2003 KX500. Has anyone used the valve kits and springs made by Race Tech, and do these items make a large improvement in the performance. Rear stock suspension is OK, but not happy at all with the front end despite numerous adjustments, and replacing the oil.  No comparison to my YZ450(sorry to all die hard KX riders).Also can anyone recomend a good enduro computer and where to purchase one.

Mike

I highly recommend these guys:

http://www.factoryconnection.com/index2.htm

I've been dealing with them for 15 years, and they do amazing work to your suspension as far as improvements.

[FuriouSly]

Race Tech Gold Valves are great.  I just had the the forks and rear shock rebuilt on my 00KX5 a few months back.  If you are thinking of doing it yourself, you need to have a few tools to do so.  A friend of mine who is a Race Tech service guy and myself did the work and took about 4 hours to do so.  There was alot of talking but there was a bit of extra work that needed to be done to the suspension since it had never been apart or rebuilt from stock.

Forks:  New gold valves, stiffer springs, seals/dust covers, and oil.  You need a fork seal driver, special large hex driver socket, special cartridge removing tool, files/grinder for the factory set nuts, and misc other tools.  The shaft rods were a little corroded and rusted from some condensation so they had to be hand sanded with 600 grit in a cross hatch like the main sliding shafts of the forks.

Shock:  New gold valve but stock spring, seals were fine,  files/grinder for the set factory net, new oil, and Nitrogen for the charge.

Of course this is a quick overview of the things needed and done, but that was two of us working on them at an average pace.  If you haven't done a suspension before and do not have the tools to do it, I would suggest dropping/sending them off to a shop and have them done.  Let's say my friend and I would have a lobor cost of 8 hours at $30 and hour= $240 labor, plus his dealer cost of $350 for parts, and we are talking $550-$600 total.

Most shops charge around $600-$800 for the same average upgrade with shipping costs.  Here is a great shop   http://www.tootechracing.com/

My suspension is now capable of the 100 foot plus jumps I like in the sand and it really soaks up the little stuff.  My latest experience with suspension work for you to review...

Sly

[Paul]

The valves in a modern bikes suspension are only one to two years back from the works stuff. Find a reputable local suspension person and have them re-shim and spring the bike to your weight and riding style.

When I had mine done the guy doing the work would go with me to the track to watch how I rode adn from there he re-shimmed them valves to work with my riding style and added the springs for my weight. AMAZING difference, I rode my brother in laws mail order Race-Tech setup and was not impressed at all, it was even worse for him when rode my bike and realized I paid 1/2 what he did.

[Polar-Bus]

I have "heard" quite a bit of feedback on Race Tech G/V's, and the generall opinion is they are a band-aid for improperly valved suspension(s). I do however hear excellent feedback, when they are used in street cruiser style motorcycles. Again, strictly heresay, I have personally never ridden a bike done up by Race Tech.

[kx666]

do not use factory connection. some of the bikes i have worked on the cusomer had spent thousends of $$ on work from them. i never saw any revalving, shimming or anything. if there was any difference at all ocationally they would put a heavyer spring (any one could do that). you are paying for a sticker.

i am not saying they allways rip people off, but i have seen it a lot. the bikes that they acutally do work on turn out good.

[Polar-Bus]

do not use factory connection. some of the bikes i have worked on the cusomer had spent thousends of $$ on work from them. i never saw any revalving, shimming or anything. if there was any difference at all ocationally they would put a heavyer spring (any one could do that). you are paying for a sticker.

i am not saying they allways rip people off, but i have seen it a lot. the bikes that they acutally do work on turn out good.

Dude, get your facts straight. Factory Connection does NOT cost "thousands" for their suspension rework. A complet re-spring and revalve will run you about $800. F/C has set up 4 different bikes for me. Furthermore TONS of NESC New England pros rely on F/C for awesome suspension rework at great prices.

[jolly green thumper]

Thanks for the feedback everyone, and the warning Sly. I will try it myself first, and if I run into problems I will have to look up a dealer around here.

[FuriouSly]

My suspension is now capable of the 100 foot plus jumps I like in the sand and it really soaks up the little stuff...Sly

I have three trips out on the new suspension and have come to some conclusions...

First:  It takes awhile to get the comp/rebound/preload set when starting fresh from scratch.  The suggested settings from the manufacturer (Race Tech) are merely guidelines.  Setting the suspension in the sand is even more difficult for me since it is inconsistent, but that is beside the point I am getting away from.

Second:  The better the suspension the more isolated my KX5 is from the sand, like being able to tell how much the bike is hooking up on take off or how much the front is grabbing on turns.

Last:  I have yet to get over 75 feet let alone make it over 100 foot on the KX5 since the suspension rebuild.

I am thinking it is because the suspension work with the motor mods I have done makes it hard to get a consistent take off from the jumps.  I know Arigato said to me "hey, a slight twist of the throttle is all it takes to go from hero to zero on the jumps"....    Duhh, makes a little more sense now.  Top of 3rd is too revvy and bottom of 4th has too much torque.  So its either take off at 25 mph or 40 mph approximately.

Definately going back to the basics of jumping, but mostly because a 250 is so much easier to jump at all speeds and gears than a built up 500.

Long story short??  Sorry for the babbling, but when you get the suspension done, take some time and really tune it in.  Work on the front and rear/comp and rebound/preload in their respective environments.

Sly

[Polar-Bus]

I am kinda curious, what exactly do you look for setting up a suspension on a "dune" bike? I am a long time woods, weekend MX'er, and I tend to favor a forgiving and quick reacting initial, to mid stroke suspension. I don't focus too much on "bottoming out" . As long as my suspension doesnt break my teeth filling loose, it's good enough. I also am not launching my 500 off 100ft jumps either, LOL

[FuriouSly]

I am kinda curious, what exactly do you look for setting up a suspension on a "dune" bike?....Polar-Bus

Think about all the riding you do in the woods and mx, then think about what percentage of that riding is in loamy/sandy conditions?  Maybe 10%, that being probably high even.

Well in the dunes you are 100% in the most dragging, power stealing, non-suspension friendly environment known to two-wheelers.  Your front tire cuts through the top 3-9 inches of sand like a pizza cutter until you reach about 15 mph where it will finally float on top.

So as far as suspensions go, the sand steals your first 3-6 inches of plush fork travel at speeds lower than 15 mph.  Basically your front end is plowing the sand and compressing until you are up to speed, meaning stiffer springs than most riders and stiffer compression also.

When up at speed, now you have a ride that is stiff like a mx rider, but on the sand.  If you threw nobbies on my KX5 and took it on the dirt it would be a bit harsh and stiff, not ideal. 

Another way to look at it would be the sand is like an additional suspension setting for your bike and you have to adjust for it.  It is soft so you have adjust stiffer to compensate for it.

I think to sum up a dune two wheeler suspension to a MX one would be:
1. you need one or two up stiffer fork springs with stiffer valving to keep from plowing.  Set the fork preload to highest (spacers inside the forks with the springs) and then slide the forks as far down the triples to help with steering rake.  Makes a little crisper turning, if that is possible in the sand... lol
2. set the sag in the back like normal but the spring is one stiffer as well.
3. compression for front is stiffer to keep from blowing through the stroke too fast and handle the dune face entries.  Try to keep the front from blowing through all the travel and bottoming out because that will take any control away from your steering.  Rebound is a little less so the forks can return faster to keep from loading the travel on woops and for landing drops/jumps.
4. compression for the rear is stiffer to keep the tire in the sand for traction and when landing jumps since most all dune landings are 80% rear and 20% front.  Rebound is a little less as well to help keep the rear in the sand for traction and steering, since alot of the turning in the sand is with the rear end and throttle.

Of course these are my findings and are not an experts set-up, just what is getting better for my style...

Sly

[kx666]

do not use factory connection. some of the bikes i have worked on the cusomer had spent thousends of $$ on work from them. i never saw any revalving, shimming or anything. if there was any difference at all ocationally they would put a heavyer spring (any one could do that). you are paying for a sticker.

i am not saying they allways rip people off, but i have seen it a lot. the bikes that they acutally do work on turn out good.

Dude, get your facts straight. Factory Connection does NOT cost "thousands" for their suspension rework. A complet re-spring and revalve will run you about $800. F/C has set up 4 different bikes for me. Furthermore TONS of NESC New England pros rely on F/C for awesome suspension rework at great prices.

when i was working at Al's honda/yamaha in Bellingham, WA the most expencive one i saw was $2500 and all they did was change the springs and fluid, another customer from about the same time spend $1800. back even farther when i was working at Cliffs Cycle center in Bremerton, WA i had yet again another customer riped off although i never did see his recipt.

i never said they ripp off every one, i am not claiming the ripp off most. i am just telling everyone what i have seen. Polar, it is fantastic that you enjoy you suspention work. maybe we are sending the forks to different locations, mabe i am just unlucky i do not know. all i can do is reflect from my personal experence.
~steve

[don46]

Factory connection has authorized service centers all over the country, they are not employed by factory connection, but are independent companies. It would seem reasonable that there would be different levels of service from different locations. This could be said for most companies, what is great for one person may noot be worth a darn for another. For my .02, the best suspension I have ever had, came from Tom Morgan racing, on the flip side the worst came from Enzo, after many calls to Ross and him telling me it was the way the bike was being rode, I went into it on my own and low and beholdthe nuts on the forks and shock had not been ground off, so I paid him over $700 to change oil and install springs in the forks, Major rip off. I know people swear by his work, I swear at it.