Author Topic: installing a new base gasket  (Read 4046 times)

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ShanMan

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installing a new base gasket
« on: June 02, 2003, 02:54:47 AM »
Well, one step forward, two steps back I guess. I got the cast off my no-longer broken wrist last Tuesday. Being the person I am, I decided that if I couldn't ride this weekend, I would wrench instead. I managed to get in new reeds (FMF Torque Reeds), a Moose Reed Spacer and a Steahly Flyweel weight. After that, I couldn't help myself, so rolled it out into the street to see if it would be easier to start (as I had read here that it would). I hadn't kicked the thing since I parked it 20 minuted after breaking my wrist 6 weeks ago. One the second kick...less than TDC too...it roared to life. I was stoked.  :D  Then my stepson tells me to look down, and I see that I have finally blown the base gasket at the bottom of the cylinder (it had been dieing for awhile). It is spraying fuel/oil profusely.  :(

So, I have a two-fold question: 1) What brand of gaskets do you guys recommend the most? 2) Can this repair be made without having to yank the motor from the frame? (seems like it should)

Thanks in advance.

QuantumDuck

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installing a new base gasket
« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2003, 04:50:29 AM »
I just took the head/cylinder assembly off mine in one piece...and the motor was still in the bike...

as far as what kind of gasket...I also await the reply of others :mrgreen:

ShanMan

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installing a new base gasket
« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2003, 05:40:56 AM »
good news to hear that it will all come apart while still in the frame! I went back an re-read a post I did a while back when the problem first appeared. It looks like either the Cometic kit or even a late model KX5 base gasket (rubberized metal) is the way to go...so I will check that out.

ShanMan

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installing a new base gasket
« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2003, 10:59:42 AM »
as a follow up: I cannot use a late model gasket because there are some significant differences between the early models ('86-88') and the later years. Looks like my best bet might be the Cometic kit after all.

Rick

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installing a new base gasket
« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2003, 11:05:09 AM »
Yup, the stock unit is the ticket.  Reusable and everything.

As for pulling the cylinder in the frame, no problem.  Here is a quick rundown (from memory, so hope I don't miss anything).

1. pull the seat
2. pull the gas tank (make sure to shut off the fuel before you pull the hose) :shock:
3. pull the radiator scoops.
4. pull the carb out of the boots, pull the hoses up, and sit the carb on the top of the air box.  Make sure you have a little can or cup to drain the gas out of the bowl before you pull the carb.
5. pull the spark plug wire and snake it up out of the way in the frame.
6. pull the plug and put a piece of tape over the hole.  Press it down for now, but when you start pulling the jug, you will have to lift one edge to allow the air to equalize.
7. pull the drain plug on the waterpump, and drain the antifrees into a jug.  pull the plug with the radiator cap securely in place.  Once the liquid begins to dribble out, loosen the cap a little, and the flow will increase.  Not too much, as you will have quite a stream that is tough to catch.
8. pull the radiator hose off the water pump.  Leave the top of this hose connected to the radiator.
9. pull the radiator hose from the top of the cylinder, but leave the other end connected to the radiator.
10. pull the pipe from the bike.  It is usually easier to reinstall the pipe without the muffler, so I pull the side panel, muffler, then pipe.
11. pull the top jug mount all the way off the bike.  Only three bolts, so not problem.
12. pull the bottom radiator bolt, and loosen the top bolt.  Center your front wheel, and push the bottom of your radiators on each side of the front fender, and tighten the top bolts to hold in this position. (don't remember if the top transfer tube can stay in place or not, but I think it can.  It will be obvious)
13. pull the two bolts holding the power valve cover in place.  This is for viewing while reinstallation, so might as well get it off now.  Take a close look at the way this piece slips together, as you will need to pay attention to this in the last 3/4 inch of dropping the cylinder in place.
14. pull the 4 14mm nuts from the bottom of the cylinder.  Leave the head in place! :!:
15. Using a rubber mallet, tap each side of the cylinder to loosen, and then begin to pull upwards.  As the cylinder lifts, you will need to make sure the piston is at the bottom of the stroke, or you will never get it out.
16. Clean up any antifrees you spilled on the case.  Use spray carb cleaner to clean out the holes for the power valve drums, and generally clean the case and cylinder base.
17.  Since you are this far, might as well toss on a set of rings.  However, if you are unsure of your piston brand, keep the old rings.   :!:  You must use the same brand piston rings as the piston or you will have a train wreck.  But if you know the piston brand, rings are cheap.
18. Now that you have the cylinder in hand, might as well clean the power valve.  I think there is already a post out there for disassemble/reassembly of the power valve.  (In fact, I seem to remember writing something on power vavles a while back) If you can't find a post, we can set you up.  
19.  The only tough part of the installation is getting the piston in the cylinder.  The key here is to line up the rings so the split is directly over the pin in the groove.  Set your cylinder in place (have a buddy on the other side of the bike to help support the cylinder, as it is awkward.  My 13 year old and I help each other at this stage, but do the rest of the work by ourselves on our own bike.  My wife has even helped hold the cylinder on occassion.)  Get one ring at a time in the cylinder, and then slide gently down.  DO NOT FORCE!!  If your cylinder is twisted just a little, the edge of the top ring will hang up on the intake port, so don't be affraid to take the piston out and start over.  BE PATIENT, you'll get it with a little practice.
20.  Install everything in reverse order.  After doing soooo many top ends over the years, it take me only about an hour from assembled bike to assembled bike (assuming no power valve cleaning).  However, if this is your first time, plan for two hours, four if you are going to clean the power valves.

If you get stuck, stop, and send a post.  We can get you through almost anything.

Have fun.

Rick

ShanMan

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installing a new base gasket
« Reply #5 on: June 03, 2003, 09:58:45 AM »
awesome reply as always Rick. Thank you. I went ahead and bought a gasket kit from our buddy Jeff over at MonkeyButtParts. I will let you know how it all turned out later.  :D

woodsy

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installing a new base gasket
« Reply #6 on: June 04, 2003, 06:03:41 PM »
A round of applause for Rick!!!!  I can really appreciate the fact that you dont hafta pull the head and that you double !! that point. Those head gaskets arent cheap and some folks have had a little trouble getting a reseal!
GREAT WRITE UP RICK!
Thanks
Woodsy