Can't post a picture, but I can give details on the reroute.
1. remove your front number plate.
2. Remove the cable from the clutch perch.
3. disconnect the cable from the clutch activation arm at the case.
4. remove the cable from the bike. You might have to take the bolts out of the throttle side radiator to make this easy, but it's only two bolts, and the fluid stays in place.
5. Depending upon the year of your KX, you may have to rebend the metal section at the bottom of the cable. I believe the newer models have the metal section, while the older models have just all plactic coated cable. You will know which one you have just by looking. If you have one with the metal section, place this section in a vise, and gently close the vise. You need to straighten the bend enough to allow the cable to go in front of the clutch side radiator. Staighten in small steps, as you do not want to go too far. Once the bend is straight enough to allow the cable to go just in front of the radiator, you are ready for the next step.
6. This step also depends upon the year of the KX, as cable length has changed over time. The only differnce is which side of the frame to install the cable before it is snaked between the tripple clamps and to the clutch. The only way to find out is to snake to the throttle side first and install at the clutch perch. turn the bars as if to make a left turn, and watch the activation arm. If the arm moves as you get close to the steering stop, you will need to install the cable on the other side of the frame. This assumes proper clutch lever play has been set prior to the testing. (slight movement is OK, while excessive movement that disengages the clutch is unacceptable)
7. Reinstall the number plate, and your done. Attach a zip tie at the bottom of the clutch side radiator just snug enough to hold the cable from flopping around. Not too tight, as the cable needs to move a bit.
8. Install a long zip tie, or two short ones around the frame at the top of the top radiator mounts, and around the cable. Again, not too tight, as flexing is needed. Just tight enough to keep it from flopping around.
9. If you are running a ratio reducing system in line with your clutch cable, you will need to run a KX250 cable, as they are shorter and will make for an easier bend at the top behind the number plate.
Viola, your done. With fewer bends, you have less drag on the cable inside the housing, hence less friction. Also, always use stock cables, as I have found them to be smoother than the after market cables.
Finally, I have been rerouting clutch cables on the KX125, 250, and 500 for several years without any problems. On the KX500, with the rerouting and the use of the expensive Fly quick adjust lever (they use a Honda ratio which is better than the KX ratio. They also use bearings in the lever which make for smoother pull), I have stopped adding material to the ativation arm, as it is no longer required.
Hope this helps.
Rick
