On the pull rods, I have thought of using them in the past, but never wanted to lay down the coin. I know Destry uses them, and I talked with him a little about the attributes. I will probably install a set at some point.
On the rear sag adjustment, the correct method is to remove the rear sub frame and use the special wrenches to turn the sring adjustment nuts. Too much work, and I want to get on the trail. I switched to using a long punch, on which I ground an angle to better bite the tabs on the nuts. It works much better than the ol' screw driver, as the flat surface ground to an angle does not mangle the tabs. I also use a black permenant marker to mark one of the tabs before I start any adjustments. I note the position of the marked tab, and can then count the rotations. If I adjust too much, I know how many turns I adjusted, and can adjust the opposite direction about 1/2 way. If I adjusted backwards too much, I split the amount in half again, and adjust in the original direction. With this method, it is easy to dial in your spring because you always know how many rotations (or partial rotations) have been taken. After the initial adjustment, it is simply backwards or forwards in smaller and smaller increments until you achieve the desired sag.
Have fun.
Rick
