springs and valving for 240lb rider

[1980mcneil]

So I've turned my 500 into a trail/fireroads bike.  I'm also 240lbs and the previous owners were under 200lbs.  The bike definitely seems a little squishy but with really know comparison and not riding other peoples bike much I have gotten by.  But the bike does seem more jarring that what others talk about.  I've been getting some leaking fork seals so I would like to rebuild and spring for myself.

I've heard plenty of people on the forum say the 500 suspension isn't bad at all if setup properly.  I'm having tons of fun now and seem to keep up with other riders just fine, but might as well tune it to myself. I'm not gonna buy all new forks and rear spring so I just want to make this setup as good as it can be.

I've read a bunch of threads and was on racetech's sight I've found some .48kg/mm front springs, and 6.0kg/mm rear.
I hear a lot of talk about valving the bike as well.  But racetechs site only has there "Gold valve" as an option.  And only the "compression" one.

Does our bike not have a rebound valve?  Or is it just set by the clickers only?

Is the gold valve a pretty much standard and almost necessary upgrade for my trail riding needs or just stock valving setup of my weight?

Where can I buy stock style higher weight valving?

Pretty much those same questions for the rear as well.

I like the way racetech has you enter some figures and it pops a setup out.  But its bias for there products obviously.
Would a stock component website give me some "range" of the valves I can purchase?  Or does anybody know good ranges for trail riding?  Do I buy "valving" based on the spring rate and then just dial it in with the "click adjustments" on the forks?

Edit:looking online for stock springs it looks like the range is very limited and doesn't get anywhere near what my fata$$ needs.  So it doesn't look like I will get what I need using stock parts?  I saw several parts break downs labeled "ring-O Fork Valve".  If those are the components that do the "valving" are they limited to the small range the springs are? Is that similar throughout all the factory parts available?  So I will be going aftermarket for sure? Do aftermarket parts makers make "stock like" valving for people my size or do I have to go the expensive Gold Valve path?

Thanks guys.

[KXDINO]

Start off by getting springs as close as possible for your weight , you can revalve the standard fork and shock with out going to after market stuff to save some coin.I found gold valve on rear shocks work well especially on rebound adjustment.

[1980mcneil]

thanks for the reply.  Do you know where I could pick some up?  websites I could research and possibly call.  Any writeups on valving for weight ranges and riding style?

[KXDINO]

Race tech site say they have a 4.8 fork springs avaliable and a 6.4 shock spring which is the heaviest they do as for valving work you need to have the tools and the shims which there are hundreds of different sizes and you need to know what does what and were , you might be better off to get a pro to revalve it, In the suspension business nobody will tell you about valving specs it all secret ?

[cwtoyota]

thanks for the reply.  Do you know where I could pick some up?  websites I could research and possibly call.  Any writeups on valving for weight ranges and riding style?

KXDINO's suggestion to use RaceTech for spring rate suggestions is good in my opinion.

The stock spring rates in the KX500 fork are especially soft.   My 1990 had 0.39 kg/mm fork springs stock.

If you want to explore different valving yourself, go check out the suspension forum on ThumperTalk...   
There are some sharp guys over there who may be able to help you learn and give you some valving suggestions.
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/forum/31-motorcycle-suspension/

If you want to spend your time riding, rather than working on your suspension, you'll have the best luck sending it to a reputable suspension tuner.

Right in the middle of those two options is the Race Tech Gold Valve...   They sell you a piston, a bunch of shims and a setting for your weight, speed and riding style.   You install it yourself.

Be aware that to do a fork you need a few special tools.
To do a shock correctly, you need access to pressurized nitrogen and a few special tools.

Race Tech sells tools, springs, shims, valving kits, etc.
Suspension Direct sells tools, shims, genuine KYB, Showa and WP parts.
You can some of that stuff from places like Rocky Mountain or Motosport as well.

[KXDINO]

The only trouble with race tech you only get 1 setting of there site for a gold valve , the days of the spec sheets are gone so if you arnt happy with the settings you got you have to contact them and get a new  valving code for the new specs , cheap skates to save paper, not good.

[cwtoyota]

The only trouble with race tech you only get 1 setting of there site for a gold valve , the days of the spec sheets are gone so if you arnt happy with the settings you got you have to contact them and get a new  valving code for the new specs , cheap skates to save paper, not good.

They should have stuck with the spec-sheets.   Now they give you a code to log in to a website.   
My buddy's code didn't work.  Then they sent him another code and it didn't work.  It took them an extra week to e-mail him the setting.

I have a few of the old spec sheets and some gold valves that my 80 year old buddy gave me. 
That stuff is all from the late 1990's and early 2000's when he was still racing these big green bikes.


I don't think they're trying to save paper, but trying to protect their settings.
That's the angle behind selling the piston with the setting in the first place.
Their shim setting is useless unless you buy their pistons.

Personally, I just stick with the stock pistons and shuffle my own shims and springs.

[KXDINO]

That right cw , i was only joking about the paper , we dont need the extra hassle with codes etc , especially as i do this for a 2nd job at my son bike shop.It a endless gathering of information on all types of makes and models and forever changing , interesting stuff.

[1980mcneil]

So I've don't some more research and I might just go through the suspension, new o-rings and springs and call it good.  We have dampening and rebound settings on the forks already right?  Couldn't I just get the new springs from racetech, rebuild and call it good?  If we already have the adjustments what does "revalving" do?

[sandblaster]

Springs are super important.
Depending on your skill level that my be all you need... with the addition of new seals, bushings, and oil.

Valving allows you to take your riding to the next level.

It's the difference between this guy:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPHu4WgZCKg

and this guy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rz-qr3M3VpI

For me on my 500 it was the difference between 3rd gear pinned over the whoops and 4th gear.
But know yourself and be honest with your riding goals.

[1980mcneil]

OK so it sounds like I’m on the right track. Get the correct springs because my ride is way too squishy right now. And then just freshen the rest up with new bushings and O-rings. Most of my writing is first and second gear ATV and single track. I do zero jumping and a cruise on forest service roads. Thanks a lot guys. I’m glad I didn’t dump a ton of money into it.

[cwtoyota]

OK so it sounds like I’m on the right track. Get the correct springs because my ride is way too squishy right now. And then just freshen the rest up with new bushings and O-rings. Most of my writing is first and second gear ATV and single track. I do zero jumping and a cruise on forest service roads. Thanks a lot guys. I’m glad I didn’t dump a ton of money into it.

You will get a lot of improvement from the springs as Sandblaster pointed out.
You'll also get a lot of improvement from fresh oil if your suspension hasn't been serviced in a long time.   
Suspension only lasts about 25 hours, but people never freshen it up until the seals are leaking.

The bike will feel bouncy with stock valving and stiffer springs.
You can compensate for that to an extent using the rebound adjustment clickers.
Using the stock clicker settings as a starting point, try running the clickers in about four clicks (clockwise) on the rebound (fork and shock).

[1980mcneil]

Thanks for that info.  Yes, I've only changed the shock oil once since I got the bike a few years ago.  But also only road for 2-3hr sessions less than 15 times in these three years.
My front left shock started leaking.  So I bought new "bushings" inner and outer, and new seals.  While Im in there I will check out the orings.
I'll stick with the stock valving for now but I definitely figured I would be using some stiffer settings with the stiffer springs.  If I click the settings all the way tight and is still feels springy, I will look into new valving.

I never did get a link from anyone on stronger valving, or where I could buy them (what part numbers they are)...  Could somebody let me know please?  Would I possibly need aftermarket or does partzilla carry a OEM "valve" that would be a step or two up?  No MX or desert racer is 240ish pounds like myself, So I'm guessing there is no OEM valve.  Where can I get one of these things, and what exactly is it called.  I've done lots of searching this last week.  No luck so far.

[KXDINO]

If you want better valving get gold valves and you can fit them yourself , they give you the directions on paper how to do it , to easy. Ring a race tech dealer.

[cwtoyota]

If you want better valving get gold valves and you can fit them yourself , they give you the directions on paper how to do it , to easy. Ring a race tech dealer.

Here's the 2000 KX500 on Race Tech's site.  They list the Gold Valves on there with pricing.
Change the last four digits of the URL to your year KX.

https://racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Kawasaki/KX500/2000