Author Topic: centering the crank during rebuild  (Read 2698 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline kyser777

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 21
centering the crank during rebuild
« on: October 26, 2018, 09:49:10 PM »
During the rebuild, when I compare the left side and the right side.
I got a small gap difference (between the crank and the case side)

should we really center the crank in the case, someone knows the gap in mm we should have in both side



thanks

Offline KXDINO

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 630
Re: centering the crank during rebuild
« Reply #1 on: October 27, 2018, 07:45:47 AM »
looks to me the rod is in the center of the cases , what i look for is the crank to run around with no drag when there not in the right spot they wont turn freely .

Offline dave916

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 546
Re: centering the crank during rebuild
« Reply #2 on: October 27, 2018, 10:40:03 AM »
 i Usually use a .2mm shim on the primary side to centre the crank/   
Your  crank is tighter on the primary side which is GOOD {That side locates the crank}
The bearing on the flywheel side floats a little on the journal so that where u want the clearance


if your crank turn  freely with no tight spots i would leave it alone

Offline kyser777

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 21
Re: centering the crank during rebuild
« Reply #3 on: October 27, 2018, 10:49:55 AM »
yes indeed it is tighter on the clutch side, I worry that the rod does not align perfectly with the piston and involve therefore harmful wear.

the crank spin but with some resistance probably due to the new bearings and crank seals including the grease.

what does it mean "freely" ? I can rotate the crank with the tip of fingers by pushing a little, is it enough?

Offline dave916

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 546
Re: centering the crank during rebuild
« Reply #4 on: October 28, 2018, 02:26:28 AM »
There is going to be plenty of clearance  conrod to piston{about 2mm} your crank is only off center by about 0.2mm{ even though gap differance sides will be 0.4mm}

depending where you turn  the crank resistance will vary / use the conrod it should turn pretty easy[seals will have resistance}
Any tight spot would be your main concern{a sign crank is out of true} very easy to do when building a kx500 / thats why  ther are so many issues with worn crank journals and bearing inserts on the kx 500

hondas are far easier to build kawasaki / nut and collar will pull and locate primary side bearing as the
 kawasaki depends on a interferance fit to locate the crank