easy to start

[barryadam]

I just had the wierdest thing happen when starting my bike that changed my outlook on riding this beast.

In my first two outings (and home testing), I had not really mastered any sucessfull starting drills.  I was dreading starting this monster as it was really killing me and rapidly wearing out my riding soles.  So I turned to the resources here on the forum.  Made notes from searching posts by Mikesmith, 91KX, Sharc, Gowen, kxcam, kmac, bigborefan, twist-a-grip, hogwild, etc.  Determined that for cold starts, best practices would be: gas on, choke on, slowly push kick starter through a few times, rock bike in gear to turn the piston over 3 - 4 times, throttle @ 1/8 or less, then kick HARD.  If not started by 5th kick, wait a few minutes, try with choke off, then try with throttle @ 3/4.

On my next big ride, this seemed to work 2/3rds of the time, and hot starts were first kick about 85% of the time.  The remaining 15% hot starts were killers.

Before my fourth big ride, I changed the plug.  It only had one ride on it (BR8EG) and was carboned on the white insulator and electrode ONLY.  Put in a fresh B8EG, switched to a new filter oiled with PJ1 spray-on in lieu of MAXIMA pour oil (MUCH easier to ensure a proper oil job with the PJ1), lowered the float height to -2.0 mm (fuel level below the lower carb body flange lip).  It was 1.0 mm above the lip.

Got to the trails, unloaded, and went to go through my new starting drill.  Gas on, choke on, first real slow, easy push though of the lever while sitting on the seat, and....RING-ding-a-ding.  It was running.  Jeez.  Went off in my holster, I guess.  DANG, I was surprized.  Great start for a great ride.

I'm hoping this is the sign of things to come and can't wait to go riding again.  This is the way it should be!

So a BIG THANKS to all you guys that helped me find a system for starting.  Once again, the power of the forum is invaluable.

[GDubb]

One of the first couple times I rode my K5 I started it within 3 kicks cold..... NO CHOKE! I forgot to turn the choke on and the thing was STILL easy to start. That blew me away. Ive never had a bike that could do that.  I learned about the K5 from these forums... bought one because of these forums.... and it will be the last bike I buy for dirt. These bikes are truly amazing, very underestimated and under appreciated by the masses. I love this bike.

[KXcam22]

Barry,
  I would check your pilot jet size against the chart. Cold, I do the rocking thing for 1 kick starts. Hot it generally always starts 1-2 kick. I run a BPR8ES with good results, likely the only one on this site who runs this plug.  The KX should start easily. Cam.

[barryadam]

I've checked the suggested jetting chart and it looks like I can go up a size in the pilot jet, several sizes in the main jet, and drop the needle 1 notch.  I'll try that (one step at a time), but it seems to run fine as is.  And if it keeps starting on it's own like that, well, I'm going to stick with whatever is doing that.

After reading your LONG efforts with Gowen way back when, I feel really fortunate to have pretty good jetting.  We'll see if anything changes when I play with the settings.

You got any snow yet, Cam?

[Johnniespeed]

Barryadam , my kx 500 usually starts first or second kick, with only choke and some rocking. Always first kick when hot or warm. I wish I knew how to help your bike, but they can start very well , so dont give up just yet.

[KXcam22]

Barry,
  No snow yet, late this year.  Last year I was riding in 6" at halloween.  With respect to your jetting, I would suggest upsizing your pilot first to the chart size.  It will have quite an effect on how well it starts.  I have been playing between 55 and 58. I can't feel much difference in low speed carburation but the 58 starts better hot.  Had more of a tendency to cough instead of start.  Also, that chart is extremely close. I fine tuned mine over a period of about 5 years until it was running primo - and ended up with the exact settings on the chart.  The main size will also effect how smoothly the midrange tapers into the top end.  To save time you could start with the exact chart settings and go for a short ride to see how it feels.  You might be supprised. Hope this helps. Cam.

[barryadam]

Thanks Cam,  I'm definately going from the 55 to a 58 pilot.  However the main at 155 is really not bad, and I'm a bit leary of going all the way to a 165 or 168 on the main (just plain messy!).  I might try it one step at a time.  I am seriously going to add the reed spacer and the VForce soon, though.  Sounds like a winner.
More importantly, I need to get the back tire balanced.  After adding the Baja Designs kit and riding on the pavement, I noticed how it's really wobbly at high speed.  I had to force the shop guy to put my KDX rear rim on a dynamic balancer, but once he added about 16 oz of weight opposite the rim lock, it is really smooth at speed.

B

[hoopty]

...and I'm a bit leary of going all the way to a 165 or 168 on the main (just plain messy!)...

It's not the jetting that makes the spooge, it's the gas/oil ratio. With any modern synthetic you can run safely @ 50:1 and with Amsoil I run @ 100:1 and use a 58 pilot, stock needle in center clip, 175 main, 1.5 turns on the airscrew.

First or second kick starts all the time and she's a dune beast

[KXcam22]

Barryadam,
  Yeah at speed I have run 2 opposed rimlocks in leu of balancing. The 155 sounds lean (mine is 165, 60:1 @2500') but you are the best judge looking at the plug. Just have to be careful that sometimes a riding plug reading on a 500 doesn't show enough wide open running to give a good main jet reading - get mostly a midrange reading. It can be lean up top and not show - then it shows up the hard way when you blast through a long sand wash or fireroad.  A true plug chop test will tell the tale. Good luck. Cam.

[barryadam]

hoopty: My problem is what cam refers to.  I'm really just tractoring around most of the time, so it tends to load up and get messy.  I've recently switched to Yamalube 2R and 40:1.  I'm considering trying 50:1 on the next mix, along with my jetting changes.

cam: You're absolutely right.  This last ride was one of the first times I've been able to open her up and still I didn't have the 8@11s to hold it WFO.  So under normal riding, it's impossible to get a plug reading.  Definitely need to get that rear balanced, though.  Waiting for the next time Cycle Gear has Maxxis ITs on sale ($89 total for f&r mounted).  I'll have to look for the rim lock location to see if I can offset with another one easily.

Barry

[hughes]

Have you checked the float height   You said dropped -2mm. What was total float height? Float height is 27mm from top of float to carb body mating surface. With the carb flipped upside down measure from the top of the float to the area where the carb bowl would mate to the carb body. I used a depth gauge. I disagree with hoopy on the black spooge due to oil/gas mix(with my bike). I had a major problem with spooge leaking out at the pipe and silencer. I tried 40:1 and 50:1 no change in spooge. Float height was off by 6mm and rejetted the pilot and set the air mix screw. You are going have a hard time jetting your bike if the float height is off. I run 32:1 using Yamaha's 2R(best oil on the market). Scent changes I have ran 5-6 trail rides with no spooge leaking. The trails I ride you can only use 1,2 gear they may be one area where you can hit 3rd. What gearing are you running Reason I ask is I switch to 14/49 and it made a big differance when hitting the slower trails. The engine stay rev'ed up more. I may switch to 14/50 or 51 this winter.

[barryadam]

I just reduced float height before second last ride.  It was even with bottom of carb body, now at -2.0 mm.  I think that helped a lot, as it doesn't seem as messy, but plug looked about the same.

I ride mostly in 2nd, but last ride was WFO (or as much as I could brave) on straight paved roads, so it really blew out any cr@p.

The biggest mess I've got is some speckles on the back fender and back of my jersey.  The exhaust tip looks a bit wet and coked, but hopefully the new float height, new oil (Y2R), new ratio, and other changes will help.

I might try to pick up a new rear sproket with some more teeth and throw that on if I plan another ride in the lower gears.  Boy, I relly appreciate the tractor pulling torque of the KX500 in the low RPM range when on a tough uphill or tight spot.  First gear does seem a bit tall at times especially on tight downhills.

Thanks for your help.  I'll be changing jetting this weekend.

[hughes]

Try to measure from the top of the float to the carb body and see how close you are to 27mm. I had the same thing black oily spots on the back of my jersey.

[KXcam22]

Some spooge is oil brand related as well.  Being a belray MC1 fan, I tried their H1-R for a summer since it was a "power valve" formula.  At 60:1 I got so much spooge I couldn't handle it and went back to my faithful MC-1. The MC-1 is nice with only a touch of spooge. I'm going to play with some needles next spring to tune it more exact (also gives me something to play with). I run 14/49.  Just the one tooth larger made a huge diff. more than you would expect.  The 49 rear lets you use 1st to 3rd gears in the tight. I may try a 50 next sprocket but won't go lower. Cam.

[hughes]

My jetting is not perfect but I would half to say the gearing made a big diff. The engine is staying rev'ed more and it's not lugging through the woods. With the stock 14/47 the engine would load up a little more and I was lugging it. I ride in the woods not track.