Cylinder help. With pictures

[1980mcneil]

My bike was getting 90 PSI compression tests. Decide to take my first 2-stroke apart so here's some pictures of my the cylinder and the piston. Looks like a pretty good scratch right above the man exhaust port. Please take a look at the pictures and tell me what you guys think. I'd like to get this fixed as soon as possible. Where do I send it for repairs and nikasil?

[1980mcneil]

Of course I'm having a tough time uploading the pictures. Suffice it to say I could still use recommendations on getting replated. I'm in Seattle so a reputable place closer to home might be a little better. I've heard a lot of people mentioned millennium. That's the first company that popped into my head. The hell maybe somebody local is really good and I could just drop it off. Looks like somebody's done some porting on the cylinder. No idea if it's a decent job but honestly this go around I'm not even that concerned about getting the extra power. I just want to get back on the trail I have a Wiseco piston already bought so I mostly looking for a quick turnaround. Any advice would be great. I'll try to get some pictures up after I clean up and get inside the computer. Maybe I'll have more luck than on my phone

[sandblaster]

Pics?

[1980mcneil]

[1980mcneil]

I took those while taking the cylinder apart.  I'm gonna go down and get some closer pics if I can.  there are a couple brown spots, not sure if that is the plating wearing away or just stained.  Pretty bad scratch as well in that first pic.  I assume that dooms it from not getting re-coated.  Let me know if you want to see specific spots.

[1980mcneil]

Better pictures here.  besides the scratches, the cylinder just looks worn out.  it's not shinny and seems to lack the micro-crisscross-scratches I see on most fresh cylinder pictures.
there is a picture of the air intake/reed area.  Where some "porting" was done.  can someone take a good look at the bottom of the pillars?  They look cracked on the bottom but they don't go through to the cylinder wall.  Is that one of the problem/common spots for this?  can it be fixed or left?  Will the plating company fix this if needed?

[1901306708]

nothing looks too crazy there bud. other than some donkey fiddled around in your intake. you can make that piece as skinny and sharp as you want and it doesnt make any difference. it would be nice to have someone who knows what whey are doing weld that back up to something substantial so it doesnt crack. cant tell if it allready is or not..?

your bore isnt that bad. nothing a re-nic cant fix.

[1980mcneil]

Okay.  Yeah.  No crazy damage for sure.  But def need a replate...?
I filled out a Millennium form and am going to call them tomorrow.  I assume that is where I'll send it.  Looks like they will repair and touch up the "porting" done by what looks like someone with a Dremel. 

any more comments and suggestions are welcome. 

[1980mcneil]

Can you change the coolant impeller seal and bearing without splitting the case?  I'm doing my top end and thought I'd take care of that while I'm at it.  Do I just need to remove the side cover?  On top of that.  can any other crank or case seals be changed without splitting the case?  I'd like to replace any wear parts i can while top end is apart that doesn't involve splitting the case.  
thanks guys

So I drained my gear oil.  thought it might be "milky", even though my radiator fluid has been 100% topped off since the day I bought it half a year ago.  I've never added any coolant and it's always full.
I'm beginning to think the fluid is just "grey"...?  I've changed my fluid 2 times and each time it is they grey color.  This time while emptying the case I put my finder in it to give it a good look.  I don't see water separation at all.  Of course I'm comparing that to a car engine that had blew a head gasket and you could clearly see water.  It's definitely not frothy, aerated or even milky I don't think.  Not any hint of white in it at all.  It's kinda the gray of un-shinned aluminum.  I don't know what kind of clutch was installed before I bought it.  Maybe it's just fine aluminum?  What do you guys think?

[1901306708]

changing the impeller is pretty easy. just pop the cover off. theres nothing much to go wrong in there though.

if you get water in your oil, it will take a few changes to get it clean again.

[1980mcneil]

Is gray fluid common without it having water in it? Is that a common color for it the fluid to turn?  Sequencing or do I definitely have a water leak? If I were to guess I would say it doesn't have a water leak and grey is just a color it turns. But I really have no experience at this. Maybe the fluid should look essentially new or more black when it needs to be changed? Eeveelutions

[sandblaster]

Dark grey is a sign of clutch wear when you are running aluminum clutch plates.
Light grey is water...

[1980mcneil]

Maybe I'll just change the d**n thing while I'm at it. What's it going to cost me one side gasket, a seal, and a couple bearings? I'm assuming I have to take off more then the impeller cover? Got to take the side cover off the engine to get to the seals and bearing?