wow id like to drop my couple cents worth of what o can share related to this topic. . sounds to me like its your first go round with these valves. gotta drain the coolant. and remove the barrel/jug. everybody has their way of what parts are left connected. but to me the tank the seat the plastics the carb, pipe and spark arrester /silencer are off the bike while im catching the coolant in a bucket. i find it so much easier to take off the six bolts and loosen 3 clamps to remove the radiator halves leaving the long hose connected to the water pump and the left sides connected to the radiator. then rather than remove the short hose above the water pump by loosening the clamp just drop the two bolts that secure the nipple to the cylinder jug, but remember the o-ring that seals the gap between the jug and that nipple when you separate the two. you dont want to have to look for it when it gets away accidentally. you dont have to take the radiator halves off but as i was getting to it makes it so much easier separating and reinstalling the cylinder jug. now you only have the spark plug four nuts on the jug base and a nut under the rubber boot that connects the governor arm to the power /exhaust valve assembly.(oh and the two bolts that fasten the plastic cover that protects the actuator rod end on the outside of the cylinder jug. slide the jug off and you dont have to but i personally would drain the transmission oil remove the kick starter rear brake pedal and remove the clutch cover. its a good time to look at everything not bottom end related right now. i mean s**t is time consuming and odds are youll have to replace the idler gear due to the carbon built up on the exhaust valve assembly , because in all reality that idler gear is the only thing that keeps the two valves in synchronized motion . and when the carbon gets too thick, the teeth of the idler gear are the first thing to feel the pain.any way theres really no simple way to get a carbon caked power valve assembly to come free once you get the screw that holds the seal in place and the 2 little tiny circlips that hold the end of the valve rod off. if you need any pointer on removing the two valve guides and idler guide all i can say is first and foremost before you take these out and think youve won the exhaust valves are marked on the top of the rods as to which one goes on which port. one of them , and i do believe its the rod on the right side(as you are holding the jug upside down exhaust side facing your belly) the valve that sits next to the idler gear has a little ring on the top of the shaft that indicates that is the valve that needs to go on that side..do not forget that. very important. now theres also the main exhaust valve. its like a damper that works in conjunction with the rod valves. thats whats under those two bolts that hold that little oval like piece of aluminum . take those two bolts out and you will have another two bolts inside holding that on place. once you get all this stuff out decarbonize the whole lot of it. if you dont have the clymer manual m447-3 it would be a good investment at this point . i have some literature if you would like me to send it to you but not something i should probably post on an open website. it has to do with the reassembly of the system. alignment of the valves and pushrod are crucial and the gears on the valves are marked with little dots. as well as there are also alignment lines marked on the pushrod.so this is where a picture would be best. just let me know ifyou need the literature and ill send directly to you.
