2001 RM250/ 1994 KX500 conversion. The "Kawasuki RM500"

[mikectanker]

Started this the past week. 2001 RM250 and 1994 KX500.





Yes I am really going to put "Kawasuki RM500" decals on the finished project.
Thought it would make people laugh until they get hit by the roost!

I am going to do everything I can to make a high quality build. Hopefully I can get it ready to ride before winter. Then I will make it look good over the long winter.

Any advise is welcomed.

2001 RM had a crank and new top end put in. Heat cycled 4 times. Motor will be for sale on ebay unless someone gets a hold of me first. I will blast the outside of the motor and make it look nice and clean. Runs great and shifts perfect. I have a video of my buddy
taking it for a short spin in my field.

1994 KX500 is pretty nice for the year. It was well maintained and greased. Only  noticable flaw is a bent subframe. The rolling chassis is for sale as well.

Will post more with pics later.

[mikectanker]

Ordered pipe today. Service Honda KX500AF fmf gnarly. At $369 plus $31 shipping i hope cutting and rewelding mounting tabs is all I have to do.
I have a longer fmf silencer on the RM250 which is slightly shorter than the KX500 and a hair bigger diameter. Hope it works out...

[umberto]

Ordered pipe today. Service honda fmf gnarly. At $369 plus $31 shipping i hope cutting and rewelding mounting tabs is all I have to do.
I have a longer fmf silencer on the RM250 which is slightly shorter than the KX500 and a hair bigger diameter. Hope it works out...

That will be interesting to see how the pipe works in the RM frame.  I think it should work fine, as long as it doesn't hit the subframe or have any issues mating to the silencer.

I used a CR FMF gnarly on my 03 conversion, but modified it myself.  I also used a CR Q Stealth silencer.

[mikectanker]

Machine work next week.
There are drill bits that have a shaft one size and then the larger drilling part of the bit starts.
they allow a strait and true overbore of a hole.
The rm250 swingarm bolt is 17mm calling for the 43/64 drill that many on here have used.
What is the special drillbit I'm talking about called and where can you buy one?


I put some ebay adds up. RM250 complete engine
KX500 tank super nice
Seat and rad shrouds with nice n style graphics
thats all so far.
Parts are super nice tight and clean so if you need K5 origional parts le me know.
heres a link to the seat and shrouds with a pic of the KX500 before the disassembly
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KX500-Seat-Radiator-Shrouds-and-Graphics-off-of-low-hour-1994-/171902522689?fits=Year%3A1994%7CModel%3AKX500&hash=item2806305541&vxp=mtr

ordered more parts yesterday.
MH3 Starcross rear tire $88.78 (rocky mt mc)
Dunlop mx51 front tire $52.99
2015 KX450f Cycra Stadium front number plate green (hope I can make it work...)$24.99
2015 KX450f front fender green $25.93
All bearings and bushings for the rear suspension $112
New clutch and throttle cables $27
new oem reed cage boot $40
New green gel PRO GRIPS $16
RM250 clear number plate backgrounds $11.99
fork bleeders green anodized chinese ones off ebay $7.19
Steering stem bearing kit $32.30

I am looking for the following parts
-a plain black piece of gas tank graphic material to wrap my tank with  completely (even underneath)
- a clear pre cut number plate background for that KX450f stadium front plate
- clear RM250/125 radiator shroud graphics/protectors/background/whatevers
- clear 2001 RM swingarm decals

I have a vinyl cutter machine. I plan on using that to cut green chrome vinyl and put thicker clear on top. I hope it works.

What is the easiest way/site to use for uploading my pics?

[mikectanker]

My bike has 2001 RM 125 showa forks on it.
I am not sure how good they can be made to work.
Stock 250 forks were Kayaba, but they changed the upper clamp to accept the 125 forks.



The 125 forks are blown and the anodizing on the outer tubes are cracking. I can smooth the outer tubes down and wrap with colored chrome vinyl no problem. Do you guys think those forks can be made to perform great enough to be worth revalving and springing them?
I dont want to spend over $800 on forks and a whole front wheel/axle/brake setup

I will be revalving and springing the 2001 RM shock unless there is something way better that I am unaware of.

[mikectanker]

Coolest looking throttle assembly ive ever seen on ebay. You guys think a green one will work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-YAMAHA-YZ-100-125-250-MOTOCROSS-CNC-THROTTLE-GRIP-ASSEMBLY-MR-/321815898414?var=510742064803&hash=item4aedb8e92e&vxp=mtr

[mikectanker]

Got the k5 motor sitting in the rm frame. used k5 swingarm bolt(will need to drill the cases later.
It is amazing how close the motor mounts  all are to working!
RM radiators are bigger than the k5 ones and will work easy enough.
airboot is almost a pefect fit with no mods needed.
electrical parts are bolted up in stock rm locations. no mods needed but ill make it nicer later.

I need to...
-post pics (plenty of detailed ones on my phone)
-heat and dent the frame where the front lower ignitioncover bolt is hitting and possibly re-enforce the underside of that spot.
-have the professionals drill the 43/64 bit through the cases
-line up the sprockets and shim at the swingarm.
-then set the other mounts right and shim.
- will need a new head stay with shims.
- need to move the radiators forward a hair(they are hitting the top front of the motor but bolt up)
-need to make a short 90 degree coolant elbow
  i can use 1 k5 hose on the Right radiator. RM hose on the left with a elbow and small hose going to the dome.
-need to mold the tank(hitting water spout on left top of dome)
  should i use hot water or my heat gun?
-need to make service honda kx500af pipe fit and then match the muffler to it

Am I forgetting anything important?

[umberto]

You can reshape your tank using boiling water.  I boiled water in my wife's two soup pots and then poured it in the stainless steel sink in our utility room.  I put the tank minus the petcock (I built a little aluminum plate and used a bit of floor mat to block the opening off) in the water for 2-3 minutes to heat up.  It becomes very easy to shape, but I would use a tire spoon or something metal to push on it because it was a bit too hot to use your hands.  The boiled water will cool off pretty quickly, so I would have it marked and a general idea of how much you need before you start.  Once you like where it is, run some cold tap water over it, and you're done.  It's actually very easy and seemed really safe.  Just like forming you sports mouthpiece.   

As far as the radiator mounts, I just welded up the holes and then marked a spot forward about 3/8" and drilled and tapped it.  I made new radiator braces out of aluminum to keep the radiators pushed forward just a little bit.  Don't push them forward too much or the hoses will kink.

Here's a link on how to post photos using photobucket.  I can't wait to see pics; it sounds like a very interesting build!

http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,10040.0.html

[mikectanker]

Thanks Umberto.

Turns out I had a photobucket account from 6 years ago with 1 pic. Forgot it existed.
Should have pics up tonight I hope.
Gotta heat and smash that framerail by the front ignition cover bolt.

Do any kick start levers with more of a forward bend fit on the k5 engine?

[mikectanker]

Just ordered more parts all from ebay but 1

-2 PIECE CLUTCH COVER ADAPTER from sandblaster $95
-New oem KX450 clutch cover $45
-KX450 clutch cover gasket $8.86
-KX500 clutch gasket $7.99
-wiseco topend kit $171.79
-fmf muffler packing $11.39
-spec bolt 120 piece RM kit $29.99
-Outlaw Racing Complete Replacement Seat $87.96

-Fusion Graphix custom seat cover (white top/green ribs/green sides) $59.99 not from ebay, but fusion's website

[mikectanker]

Bottom motor mount is close


need a new head stay


frame contact with ignition cover b4 heat and smash. look how close the front motor mount is to lining up


No more frame contacting ignition cover

[bens87braap]

Personally I would have spent the money on the KX      Those cool looking throttle tubes are just that,  "cool looking".  My mate bought the same one Blue and put it on his yz.  It filled up with water on the first ride and seized up.  He rode back to camp pulling the cable with his hand..  He may have just got a dodgy one

[mikectanker]

Personally I would have spent the money on the KX      Those cool looking throttle tubes are just that,  "cool looking".  My mate bought the same one Blue and put it on his yz.  It filled up with water on the first ride and seized up.  He rode back to camp pulling the cable with his hand..  He may have just got a dodgy one

Thanks for the warning. I guess It will be a not as cool looking motion pro throttle going on it.

[mikectanker]

Dropped the bike of at the machine shop for the swing arm bolt. pulled the clutch cover so they can use parallel blocks to get it straight and true.

Pulled the top end and it is in need of a resleeving. I am sending to Eric Gore and having him port it for usable, broader power.
Going with a stock bore. He did one of my old rm250 motors back in 2002 and it was a great job.

I am thinking about doing a compression release. I know theres a guy on here doing them that Gore recommended somewhere.

Looks like I have boyesen reeds on the stock cage. I need to find out which reed cage offers the best or broadest improvement.

All that with the service honda KXAF gnarly pipe and stock carb.

I wont have the top end to mock up with the radiators when my frame is done. I dont think it will be a problem as there is enough room to move the rads up and/or forward.

[mikectanker]

Still waiting on the machine shop.

The 2015 kx450 front plate and fender will work. I just need to drill new holes in the fender.

Most of the other parts are in except my cylinder and some nonimportant parts.

The green chrome vinyl looks great. I'll wrap the forks and make decals with it.

seems like all the graphics today look like an add kid on acid made them. Plus it's hard to get green kits for a Suzuki.