Author Topic: Well I bought the 1999 KX 500! Holy Shyte!  (Read 2370 times)

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mg175150

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Well I bought the 1999 KX 500! Holy Shyte!
« on: May 30, 2005, 12:53:06 PM »
Said the heck with it and bought my friend's 1999 KX5.  Man this thing can be a widow maker if you're not careful.  Although many tried to steer me away from this particular bike, primarily cause i've never really ridden before, i'm happy I went through with it.  I paid $2k and he threw in the boots.  The bike wasn't ridden much.  The original tires are still there and they look new.

Like I said before i'm new to this so here are a few dumb questions.  

1.  I'm 5'10" and about 180.  My feet are still not flat on the ground when I sit on the seat.  Please tell me that the seat height is adjustable and if so how do I do it?

2.  What's the best way to load the bike into my truck if i'm by myself and cannot find a hill to back up to?  

3.  Seems like the bike won't go through the gears and then into neutral when I am not moving.  What exactly is the gear sequence?

4.  I can get the bike to start with the first kick and idle fine, but after riding for 15-20 minutes it seems like it doesn't want to idle on it's own anymore.

5.  I have read about flywheel weights.  Is this recommended for somebody just getting used to this bike?

Thanks for any info anybody can provide me.

Offline hughes

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Well I bought the 1999 KX 500! Holy Shyte!
« Reply #1 on: May 30, 2005, 03:12:07 PM »
Congrads on the bike.

1)  You may need to set the sag. You have pre-load adjustment on the rear shock. This will set the ride height with you on the bike. Do a seach on this site and you will find more info on how to.

2) ATV loading ramps work great. They are wide enough to walk beside the bike as you load it into the truck.

3) 1 down 4 up. Netural in between 1 and 2. The trans shift better with the engine running or by rock the bike back fourth with it not running.

4) You may need to play with the pilot jet. The air mixture screw needs to be at 1 1/2 turns out for a starting point or factory setting. Their is a idle speed screw on the right side of the carb.

5) Flywheel weights are used for diff. types of riding. Woods guys like the weights. But a weight could help you learn to ride the bike easier. They just slow down the hit of the power band make the bike more tractable.
Open Class 2-Stroke Kawasaki KX500
Yamaha 2005 YZ250
Richard Hughes
Dirt Hammers - Online Off-Road Journal
hughes@dirthammers.com
http://www.dirthammers.com

Offline Timbowe

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Well I bought the 1999 KX 500! Holy Shyte!
« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2005, 05:16:20 PM »
Well you've got the balls to buy the thing, dont dull the power down too much. just shift it. Does it have a standard exhaust. I found the stanard system to be all mid /top of the range HIT. Heaps different to what I've been used to. Quite intimidating to a new rider it must be! The Fmf gnarly is a good place to start. Drop the power band back to a more usable level, at the bottom of the range. No more surprises. I've just been playing around with the 04 and the old pro circut pipe wich is a little better in terms of evening out power delivery. But the gnarly seems mush more suited to the kx5s super tractor torque and it can also be tapped out to semi peaky top end if you so desire.
 V force2 reed block is also high on my list of upgrades for the 04. Have 1 on the ol 92 and they work a treat paired up with the FMF and reed spacer.
 All that gear together can have your bike a very choice machine to be aboad. Make a good bike better by smoothing out the hit.
 But as I and others here have said "Its all about throttle control" and being smooth and a liitle extra confidance is good too. Happy Fanging to you!
KX500
Weapon in the hands of the Master

mikesmith

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Well I bought the 1999 KX 500! Holy Shyte!
« Reply #3 on: May 30, 2005, 10:10:21 PM »
Congradulations!Looks like your questions were answered,but as far as loading I just ride up the ramp.But pushing up a ATV ramp is good advice,if you arent carefull riding up the ramp you can bend the bed of the truck,break your back window or miss the ramp.I even had the ramp come out from under me and ended up side down!As far as seat height you can cut your sub frame and remove 10mm or so,but it would be easier to cut you seat foam down a little with a electric carving knive and sand it smooth with sand paper.Im the same height and cant touch flat footed,but your really not going to on a full size bike,youll get used to it.I dont like my bike to idle,doesnt suit my riding style,.But the fly wheel weight will help with the stalling if thats why you want an idle,throttle and clutch control will come in time and you may not want an idle then.A reed spacer (moose makes them) woul be agood idea to and cheap.Respect the bike but dont let it intimidate you and take your time learing the bike and how to ride,dont go over your head.The more you spend time on the bike (even in the garage on the stand) the more comfortable youll get with it,have fun!

Kawadougie

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Well I bought the 1999 KX 500! Holy Shyte!
« Reply #4 on: May 31, 2005, 12:39:34 AM »
Do yourself a favor and get a flywheel weight.  It will really smooth out the power hit for you and make it easier to ride.  If you get a Steahly flywheel: http://www.steahlyoffroad.com/ , you can easily remove it again.  Drop the forks down in the triple clamps as much as the bars will allow.  I run Fatbars so mine is dropped down 1".  This will lower the front of the bike and make it steer better.