Author Topic: Need Some Bling.  (Read 2615 times)

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Offline hughes

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Need Some Bling.
« on: March 08, 2005, 08:42:00 AM »
Hey Guy's

I'm looking for chrome or colored banjo bolts. One more question do ya'll know of a company that I can get chrome nuts and bolt from. Thanks
Open Class 2-Stroke Kawasaki KX500
Yamaha 2005 YZ250
Richard Hughes
Dirt Hammers - Online Off-Road Journal
hughes@dirthammers.com
http://www.dirthammers.com

Offline machine

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Need Some Bling.
« Reply #1 on: March 08, 2005, 12:20:21 PM »
I always try to buy stainless steel nuts and bolts, then polish them out my self!!!

Offline demographic

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Re: Need Some Bling.
« Reply #2 on: March 09, 2005, 08:30:29 AM »
Quote from: hughes
Hey Guy's

I'm looking for chrome or colored banjo bolts. One more question do ya'll know of a company that I can get chrome nuts and bolt from. Thanks


DON'T buy anodised aluminium banjo bolts cos they are badly affected by corrosion and you don't want the brakes to fail.

They are not allowed on road bikes over here because of this and for the couple of grams weight saving is it worth it?

Stainless is much better and has a significantly higher tensile strength.

Have you tried Goodridge banjo bolts?

Offline hughes

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Need Some Bling.
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2005, 12:45:10 PM »
demographic, Thanks. Looks like somthing I will half to work on. Goodride had some nice stuff. I will need to cut through some red tape but I think I can make my own custom brake lines with chrome fittings. This might be future project. Looks like I could have around 60.00 in each brake line.
Open Class 2-Stroke Kawasaki KX500
Yamaha 2005 YZ250
Richard Hughes
Dirt Hammers - Online Off-Road Journal
hughes@dirthammers.com
http://www.dirthammers.com

Offline machine

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Need Some Bling.
« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2005, 01:04:17 PM »
Strange that they would say not to use anodize parts?
The Co. Russel fitting makes big $$$ from fabbing up tons of them.
This is what I  found off Techplates site...

Anodize Type II ( Sulfuric)  
[MIL-A-8625F]
Anodizing is a conversion of the aluminum surface to practically pure aluminum oxide: the anodic coating (a true ceramic). Type  II is of particular interest to the designer wishing to extol both the virtues of form and function. Allowing for radiant colors; full coverage; full coverage.
This anodic coating is significantly more abrasion and corrosion resistant then the untreated metal. The coating thickness is a approximately, .0002" penetration and .0002" build-up. This coating may be subsequently dyed in a variety of colors, imparting a very decorative finish both in a satin and a polished surface result.  Limitations to these virtues vary according to the alloy and fab method. The casting alloys being the most difficult to work with.
 
I use mostly "Hard anodizing"
You can look all these finishes up @

Techplate.com
And all they're aplications....

Offline hughes

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Need Some Bling.
« Reply #5 on: March 10, 2005, 01:08:09 PM »
Thanks dude. I am making a list of things I need to do and parts to buy to finish my 500.
Open Class 2-Stroke Kawasaki KX500
Yamaha 2005 YZ250
Richard Hughes
Dirt Hammers - Online Off-Road Journal
hughes@dirthammers.com
http://www.dirthammers.com

Offline machine

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Need Some Bling.
« Reply #6 on: March 10, 2005, 02:59:07 PM »
I'm not 100% certan, but it looks to me that the stock banjo's are
anodized on my 04' KX5???
I'd have to ask my plater...

I do LOTS od work for the medical biz, and almost all the parts are ano'd!


????

I think I saw them offering some red ano'd banjo's out of the "Motostport"
book?

I'lll look into it 4 ya!  :wink: