Author Topic: 1989 kx125 restoration master thread (Read 104126 times)

queen of spodes · « **Reply #90 on:** November 22, 2014, 10:51:34 AM »

Ready set go

Yamabond

Together again, at last...

queen of spodes · « **Reply #91 on:** November 22, 2014, 10:55:18 AM »

Got some new brake lines shipped in...

Can't afford new wheelsets so I spent a little time fine sanding the oxidation & rust from the stockers....

bens87braap · « **Reply #92 on:** November 22, 2014, 01:00:16 PM »

Awesome she will be going braaap in no time

sandblaster · « **Reply #93 on:** November 22, 2014, 01:07:22 PM »

Quote from: queen of spodes on November 22, 2014, 04:23:28 AM

Need some advice/input.
How close should the crank half come to the case? I'm using the puller motojason suggested above. Will the crank half bump up against something before it touches the case?

I use the heat freeze method and let the crank drop in all the way till it stops.
It should spin freely excluding the resistance of the seals.
Interesting tool... Looks like stuff I have made

For rusty or corroded spokes I use a stainless steel wire wheel on my Dremel tool or blue Scotch Brite.

queen of spodes · « **Reply #94 on:** November 22, 2014, 01:08:32 PM »

Do you normally put seals in before or after?

sandblaster · « **Reply #95 on:** November 22, 2014, 01:11:36 PM »

On a K5 they go in first.
The trick is to not get the cases too hot.
I usually use 265-275 degrees.
Any hotter and you start risking seal failure or hotter yet and you get over expansion of the bearing causing it to lock up.

queen of spodes · « **Reply #96 on:** November 22, 2014, 01:53:31 PM »

Both seals on my 125 look like they go in from the outside. That's what the parts diagram shows too.

sandblaster · « **Reply #97 on:** November 22, 2014, 02:10:39 PM »

Yep. Your lucky...
If you do another, consider the heat freeze method as you will eliminate axial load on your bearings.
Remember, main crank bearings can take a lot of radial load but not so much axial.
Plus, it's really cool when your crank drops in with little to no resistance.
Here's how I did mine..

http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=661

Mike Grant · « **Reply #98 on:** November 22, 2014, 05:09:15 PM »

I am getting ready to build my put my KX 500 engine back together and really appreciate the How to's on this forum......Does the heat cause any problems with the yamabond being applied onto hot cases. I am stressed out with the time constraints with applying gasket sealer to both case halves before the crank warms up and i end up with a left case half way on

sandblaster · « **Reply #99 on:** November 22, 2014, 06:29:31 PM »

Working temp on Yamabond is up to 302 degrees Fahrenheit
Stay below that and your good.
Be sure to stay above -40 Fahrenheit.
You catch that Roost

And you have some time before the crank warms up.
Just don't diddle dally around.
I do a test fit without the crank to make sure everything goes together smoothly the first time.