Author Topic: Kickstarter Issues (Read 6879 times)

gowen · « **on:** December 18, 2004, 03:09:14 AM »

I have started to notice my kickstarter is starting to rotate beyond what it is supposed to. I purchased it two years ago and have had no issues with it. Being it used to come out at a perfect 90 degree angle, Which now it is like a 110 angle, so my foot slips off and I can't get a good kick. Is this pretty normal for it to wear this fast? Did I get a defect starter? It is a newer oversized kicker. Anyway, two years ago I paid $86 for a new one, I just paid $135 for a new one yesterday. Talk about a mark up. The actual aluminum kickstarter is what warped.

Is there anything I can do to prevent it if it is destined to happen?

doordie · « **Reply #1 on:** December 19, 2004, 01:45:21 AM »

gowen,

Drill kick 0.5-0.7mm oversize and put in a 0.5mm steel sleev.

Shims it and it?s like new.

Do this before the hole gets to oval.

//doordie

hughes · « **Reply #2 on:** December 19, 2004, 03:22:04 AM »

Mine had the same problem. Just bought a new one for 110.00. What happened to mine was the aluminum kick stater it self was worn where it makes contact with the steel collar that mounts the assembly to the shaft on on the engine(not where the c-clip mounts the kick starter to the steel collar). When you pull the kick start out for starting the kick start and the steel collar make contact(built in kick start stop right behind the tension set screw.). Take a look at yours and see.

afritts4u · « **Reply #3 on:** December 20, 2004, 03:11:06 AM »

I'm also having kick starter problems. My deal includes some crank oil leeking around the kick pivit area. Only a small amount so I have not fixed it, but it is a little anoying.

Would apreciate some help knowing how to fix this? The arm itself is slightly bent down, in addition it rotates to far on the pivit itself. Have to use my left foot while standing to the side so I kick into the bike rather than away as you do normaly so my foot does not slip off.

Rick · « **Reply #4 on:** December 20, 2004, 05:51:05 AM »

The contact point where the aluminum kicker hits the steel pivot causes wear down over time, allowing your kicker to turn past 90 degrees. Remove the assembly from the bike. Using a welder (I have used both wire feed and stick), add a little material to the contact point on the steel pivot piece. If your welding skills are lacking, it is best to disassemble the two parts, but this can be done while assemble as well (if a wire feed is used). You will add too much material at first, but just use a grinder or dremel to clean up the weld down untilt he kicker is at 90 degrees. If your aluminum hole is out of round, a bushing is the best fix, but if you just have contact point wear, fire up the welder and save yourself $100.

Rick

hughes · « **Reply #5 on:** December 20, 2004, 05:57:24 AM »

Thanks Rick,

You explained the issue and problem alot better than I did.

gowen · « **Reply #6 on:** December 20, 2004, 07:44:50 AM »

A welder, I would have never thought of that.

I've already ordered a kickstarter

which is not cool, but I do have a mig and will try to patch the previous kick starter. I will just keep the new one as a backup for when this one gives up the ghost.

Just as a second curious question I wanted to ask how I can get my kickstarter off the shaft? I'm stuck and cannot remove it. I don't want to try at it cause it might bust the aluminum casing. Thanks

Rick · « **Reply #7 on:** December 23, 2004, 02:36:56 AM »

While I have never had this problem, you might try a power steering pully puller, as it is about the right size. The question I would have is if there is enough room to get the puller between the case and the kick starter.

Gabe, I spent all day yesterday changing the 500 for woods running (see my post), and it now flies through the woods. If you are not doing anything on January 2nd, I'm going to enter the Hare Scrambles about 50 miles north of you and you can come a play (probably on your 250). Just give me a call if you want to join in the fun. Since I don't have anything to do next week, I might arrive early and help Mark and Jill set up the course or work on their new building or....ride.

Rick

mikesmith · « **Reply #8 on:** December 23, 2004, 06:34:49 AM »

Use some never size when you put it together.

gowen · « **Reply #9 on:** December 23, 2004, 05:31:51 PM »

Hi Rick, let me find out tomarrow what my schedule is, the 2nd I believe is on a Sunday. Mark and Jill, they are NC Motorsports Park. Is this going to be there? I would still like to get out and ride, I believe I can go, but I will have to let you know tomarrow (christmas eve). But, would really like to ride, I have not thrown my leg over a bike since you were here in Raleigh and a little before. So, I would like to ride, but it will more than likely be just myself. Thanks for letting me know,

BTW, how was your time at the track?

demographic · « **Reply #10 on:** December 24, 2004, 07:41:56 AM »

Quote from: Rick

The contact point where the aluminum kicker hits the steel pivot causes wear down over time, allowing your kicker to turn past 90 degrees. Remove the assembly from the bike. Using a welder (I have used both wire feed and stick), add a little material to the contact point on the steel pivot piece. If your welding skills are lacking, it is best to disassemble the two parts, but this can be done while assemble as well (if a wire feed is used). You will add too much material at first, but just use a grinder or dremel to clean up the weld down untilt he kicker is at 90 degrees. If your aluminum hole is out of round, a bushing is the best fix, but if you just have contact point wear, fire up the welder and save yourself $100.

Rick

If you can get hold of Hard Facing welding rods (they often contain Tungsten or cobalt and get used on the teeth on digger buckets) you will find that they put down very wear resistant metal over normal steel.

Rick · « **Reply #11 on:** December 26, 2004, 06:11:17 AM »

Gabe,

Never really timed myself on the track, as I am not a motocrosser, so have nevery really learned how to jump. I did find that my corner speed and attack speed from corner to corner was a lot faster than folks who could out jump me all day. As a result, I could hang with the big jumpers by just attacking the corners. Also, the weekend I was there, the mud was terrible, so ruts developed quickly. I spent a lot of time just practicing riding ruts in various sections of the track, as I am sure ruts will develop in any muliple loop race in the trees.

Finally, yes, the January 2nd event is at the park.

Rick

teamgreen500 · « **Reply #12 on:** December 27, 2004, 11:05:47 AM »

EVRYTIME you wash your bike you should LUBE your pivots and cables...etc. I use WD40 right after I clean the bike and then I hit various lube points with the necessary service lubes.

I've never had the wearing out issue; however, I've snapped a few of the old design kickers.

Happy New Year and Good Fortune to all of you.

Manny

kawdude · « **Reply #13 on:** January 02, 2005, 02:13:12 PM »

Quote from: hughes

Mine had the same problem. Just bought a new one for 110.00. What happened to mine was the aluminum kick stater it self was worn where it makes contact with the steel collar that mounts the assembly to the shaft on on the engine(not where the c-clip mounts the kick starter to the steel collar). When you pull the kick start out for starting the kick start and the steel collar make contact(built in kick start stop right behind the tension set screw.). Take a look at yours and see.

$110

Was this bought in the US?

hughes · « **Reply #14 on:** January 02, 2005, 02:18:21 PM »

Yes it was. Local Kawasaki Dealer here in GA. I may be alittle off on that price but I don't think I paid much more than thw 110.00

Author Topic: Kickstarter Issues (Read 6879 times)

afritts4u

Rick

Rick

mikesmith

Rick

teamgreen500

kawdude