2000 KX500 Project

[Pmcg]

Good reading on jetting the pilot
http://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter/KeihinCarbJetting.pdf
http://www.keihincarbs.com/tips/gate.html

If jetting is not causing your issues after the easy stuff/plug fuel cutout switch damage wiring etc maybe refit the stock flywheel ignition to see how it runs
Did u do the kipps bolt mod and set the kipps valve correctly ?

Thanks Dave I was thinking the same thing about the stock ignition setup. I did do the kips bolt mod and am fairly certain that it's all working correctly.

[Pmcg]

So I moved the needle clip up into the second spot and the bike starts a ton easier. I had the timing back at .080 btc and it felt flat on top so I advanced back to .087. Top seems good now and bottom isn't teriable. The biggest problem now is that the bike surges like crazy. I turned down the idle but it doesn't seem to help. I was thinking about switching the pc pipe for a fatty to move the power down a bit. I'm wondering if I soupd move the needle clip back down and jet down accordingly. Are their advantages to doing it that way?  Any idea on the surging?  Everything is new no air leaks.

Thanks.

[Pmcg]

After some re reading looks like the surging may be caused if I'm lean?  I think I'm going to order a bunch of smaller jets and swap em out tying to keep the needle on the 3rd clip. Any suggestions from the experts?

[sandblaster]

The side of the carb is stamped pwk g250 ancn. Thanks for the help!

Ok, that is the last version from 96-04
I'd go 52 165 clip in the 3rd position.
It might still be fat but better to go in small increments.
What you are looking for is your air screw to be set at 1.5 turns out and running good.
And, you want it so that when you let off the gas, the engine winds down quickly.
Be sure to make adjustments with a warm engine.
And then, watch your plug color.

You might want to take a look here:
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=550

[Pmcg]

The side of the carb is stamped pwk g250 ancn. Thanks for the help!

Ok, that is the last version from 96-04
I'd go 52 165 clip in the 3rd position.
It might still be fat but better to go in small increments.
What you are looking for is your air screw to be set at 1.5 turns out and running good.
And, you want it so that when you let off the gas, the engine winds down quickly.
Be sure to make adjustments with a warm engine.
And then, watch your plug color.

You might want to take a look here:
http://www.oem-cycle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=550

Thanks Blaster!  I ordered a 165 and a 162 and a 52 and a 50.  I feel like I'm getting close and its nice to have eliminated the electric system. 

[sandblaster]

Just go slow and watch your plug color..

[Pmcg]

So I changed a bunch of stuff and came pretty close to blowing the bike up.  I took off the PC pipe and switched to an FMF Fatty and rebuilt Turbine core.  I also added a 10mm reed spacer.  I changed the jets to 165 52.  Sandblaster had a great how to and I made a plug and set my float level. 
The bike was idling really high despite the screw being all the way out.  I had leak tested the motor before install and I sprayed wd40 around the carb intake boot to rule that out.  So I thought I might be lean with all the changes and re installed the 167 55.  The bike still idled high so I blipped the throttle so see if it would settle.
Well that was a bad move because the throttle went crazy.  I couldn’t shut it down with the kill, shocked the s**t out of myself trying to disconnect the plug, and finally got it back down after twisting the throttle again.  The throttle was not stuck and after shutting down the bike I had fuel dumping out of the overflow.
I’m not sure what went wrong I assume the float stuck and the motor took off.  I don’t know if I should try and replace the carb or some parts.  The float needle looked great and I verified that it was working.  The float had been bent a few times but looks ok.  I’m hoping for some advice.  Don’t want to start it again with this carb.

[Foxx4Beaver]

have you verified your cable routing is correct?...no tight spots when you turn the bars from side to side?
is the upper adjuster at the throttle housing set correctly?...you generally want an 1/8" of free play at the throttle.
check were the cable goes into the top of the carb....there's two different types of caps...
my old carb used the kind that uses the clip that you slide into place that locks the cable in...
my new carb came with a cap that didn't use the clip, but I used the old cap with the clip on my new carb...as I feel safer knowing the cable is locked into the cap.

[Pmcg]

yea thanks Fox  checked.  Its not the cable I'm pretty sure its the float.  I'm thinking about replacing the float and needle and seat or maybe just ordering a Lectron.

[Foxx4Beaver]

or maybe just ordering a Lectron.

that'll be my next carb!

[Pmcg]

I cant find any prices or places to order them

[Foxx4Beaver]

I cant find any prices or places to order them

http://www.lectronfuelsystems.com/
http://www.lectronfuelsystems.com/carburetor/
http://www.packardracing.com/start.php?page=products.php?id=22

[Pmcg]

Thanks Fox.  Looks like I have to call Lectron.  Packard shows it but the add to cart has it at $0.00

[Foxx4Beaver]

Motorrad or one of the other guys might know of better places to buy them from too.

[Pmcg]

I need to figure out what size to order and find out how much trouble I'll get in when the bill hits.