500af radiator and hose help

[LundMx]

so i just finished my 2011 kx500af using radiators from a 1988-2004. My issue is I have seen a lot other conversions now where the hoses go everywhere! like 8 different hoses or more. this is my setup and my bike i feel is running to hot? i am using ready mixed Engine Ice and still "feels" to hot? here is my setup 

[cmotodad]

Are you sure of the flow direction? It thought when it came out of the pump, it went into the cylinder and out the head. That looks like stock K5 but in reverse. I put a crossover on the bottom and top.

[LundMx]

i am not sure of the flow direction. i am basically copying the same routing of the original 500 setup

[brooksie]

Might sound obvious, but have you bled the system using the bleed screw on top of the cylinder head?

Also, how is your jetting? If it's running lean, it will run hot. Modern oils permit engines to keep on going with poor set ups when dino oils would have had the engine lock up ages ago.

[Motorrad]

you have the directions in your diagram backwards/

what you mean by "feels hot?"     have a temp guage of some sort on her?


Differant tank / shroud combo's radiate heat to the rider differantly.    (My KTM and my pops,  one would swear my runs hotter, but it doesnt,  just all the fairing throwing more heat input to the rider)...



Have to bleed the head.    

AND to bleed a K5 PROPERLY.   you should lift the front tire UP in the air a few feet..   there is another air bubble in the system, no one ever seems to talk about.  (doing mine last week)     sandblaster has a picture of what im talking about  (me and him had this conversation last week also)

[Motorrad]

here ya go. Im impatiant. so I drew my own..

[LundMx]

thanks Motorrad, i wasn't sure of the direction of the water flow however that is an exact replication of my hose hook up. what i mean by running hot is when running say my yz250 and at operating temperature i can feel the cylinder and yes it's hot but the kx500 seemed hotter to the point where i can only touch the cylinder for a second or two whereas the yz250 5-10 seconds before removing my hand because the temperature was to hot. possibly this can all be remidied with race gas as i already have problems with detonation and knocking after coming off a hard rev while riding. side note i am using engine ice in the 500af

[LundMx]

also is there any advantage to running crossovers like some of the other conversion done. it seems to me like all it would do is spread more hot water around instead of letting it complete a cooling cycle

[sandblaster]

Sorry, I missed this thread.
There is a lot of debate on this issue right now.
Motorrad and I have been working on trying some different configurations.
But Motorrad's suggestion about temp gauges is a good one.
You won't really know where you are at until you get some solid readings.
I just added some temp gauges to my SM project and I will be adding the same gauges to my Sand bike.

The left is head temp and the right is water temp.
If it will stop raining here I will get some good base line readings for this stock engine.
Then we will be playing around with some mods and configurations and see how this effects the temps.
I'm sure there are those on this site that have done all this before but nobody seems to be interested in commenting so we will be forced to re-visit the past  

This is the thread where we are working on cooling.
It is where I will be posting my numbers:
http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php/topic,11480.0.html

[motopunk]

you have the directions in your diagram backwards/

what you mean by "feels hot?"     have a temp guage of some sort on her?


Differant tank / shroud combo's radiate heat to the rider differantly.    (My KTM and my pops,  one would swear my runs hotter, but it doesnt,  just all the fairing throwing more heat input to the rider)...



Have to bleed the head.    

AND to bleed a K5 PROPERLY.   you should lift the front tire UP in the air a few feet..   there is another air bubble in the system, no one ever seems to talk about.  (doing mine last week)     sandblaster has a picture of what im talking about  (me and him had this conversation last week also)

a few years ago i found a real good way to take the bubbles out of cooling system. found it in an older ktm-manual .
 1. fill the system up to the right level.
 2. lean the bike with closed cap to the filling cap site .( ca. 30 degrees out of neutral position)
3. lean the bike without filling cap to the other side, that the filling hole is absolutely the highest point. (you will sea and hear the bubbles come out   )  
4. fill the rads again to the right level...
5. take control after first short ride...

 and voila... that worked on all bikes,where i had my fingers on...  

[LundMx]

Thanks guys! Thinkin im going to try both 

[agentwilliams]

That thing sounds sooooo right!

[sandblaster]

KX500 COOLANT FLOW... WHICH WAY DOES IT GO?
The simple and easy thing to say is that it goes from the pump, up the right side of the cylinder, out the left side of the cylinder, up the left radiator, out the left radiator at the top, into the right radiator at the top, out the right radiator and back into the water pump.
Simple right?

Not so fast.
Recently there has been a few respected members battling it out on private messaging and other forums about this very topic.
Everyone has a opinion as to why their theory is correct.
So... What is the truth?

Watch the vid:

https://youtu.be/_LDVQNCZ9Qw

Just as we have been says for a lot of years 

Just like this:

[dave916]

Wondering how the cr500 flow  would work

two outlets on head to top of each rad/ link pipe on bottom of rads

http://www.gpiautoparts.com/goods.php?id=894

[sandblaster]

I think you are referring to parallel cooling.
I've heard of guys doing it but have never seen any empirical data.
I intend to try it as time permits..