What 2-Stroke oil do you use?

[SHLEPY]

OK back in the 80's,85 to be exact I was friends with RJ's YAMAHA MECH Cliff Lett who told me Yamaha did a lot of testing with a lot of diff oils yamalube r at 32.1 gave the best power in all bikes they tested at the time a rival team H even used the R but over the years it has changed and the M has came about with that im a big fan of the 927 I use it in all my 2 strokes from a husky weed eater,chain saw a zuki 50 and both my kx500.....IFFFF I ever do switch it will be to Rock oil or motul 800.

[Ims Roll]

i personally run motul 800 at 38:1 in my kx500 and after pulling the head off after 4 desert races and lots of rides later the top of the piston looked awesome and the power valves looked like they have never seen exhaust fumes haha i run it because so many racing buddies told me how clean it burned in the motor, i can't argue after looking at mine.

[Polar-Bus]

Lot's of positive feedback on Motul 800, I think I might try it . Question for the pros, what exactly is Motul's claim to be an "Ester synthetic" ? 

[Motorrad]

OK back in the 80's,85 to be exact I was friends with RJ's YAMAHA MECH Cliff Lett who told me Yamaha did a lot of testing with a lot of diff oils yamalube r at 32.1 gave the best power in all bikes they tested at the time a rival team H even used the R but over the years it has changed and the M has came about with that im a big fan of the 927 I use it in all my 2 strokes from a husky weed eater,chain saw a zuki 50 and both my kx500.....IFFFF I ever do switch it will be to Rock oil or motul 800.

I used to run 927 in the K5.    then I got tired of taking the kips appart due to them being stuck...   and thats on a dunes bike that got held WOT almost all the time

[Bigtim]

just my 2 cents... i"d been running H1R @40:1 mixed with 93 pump gas. but, so far this riding season i've seen 2 yz250s granade from detonation. one burned a hole thru the top of the piston( these bikes are jetting correctly, we assume it was the poor fuel quaility. So since then I'm mixing 50/50 VP C9 with the ethanol laden 93 pump gas. ( 5gal= 50 bux)  but since i made the change, i also stopped using the Bel Ray stuff, and am now using Maxima super M. i got 64oz for what i would have paid for 24oz of H1R. works good, smells good. i ll report what the pv looks like when i clean it soon

[Bigtim]

how about a thread on differant forms of race fuel we are all using?  non av gas...

[Ims Roll]

I've always been under the understanding that 2 strokes do not make power from compression as a 4 stroke does, so wouldn't higher quality fuel take more force to ignite and in turn be harder on a 2 stroke motor then lower quality 92oct?

 Please correct me if i'm wrong.

[Bigtim]

as i understand it, race fuel burns more complete at lower temps. pump gas is made for cars that redline where two strokes idle. " spooge" is actually unburned gas exhausted out.   if you can afford it, why not?

[NCwoods]

I only use Amsoil dominator mixed at 50:1. I have excellent results. Wrist pin bearing looks good, powervalves clean and moving freely, cylinder wall clean and sealed up with rings. This stuff is excellent. I go between 93 pump gas and power mist race gas. I like the leaded race gas. It does leave lead deposites, but the lead is also a nice high pressure lubricant.

Food for thought.

[81cr450]

This is just my 2 cents & alot of change after reading on 2 stroke oil today. Figured I'd share

Spooge tells you where your at quite a bit, depending how much your cleaning / revving it out, you'll see it in extra oil dripping all over the back of your bike . You may want to adjust the ratio if your going to the dunes of if your going to be in the deep woods for the day. My experience anyway

I've been reading on 2T oils & the baseline for oil choice in 2 stroke bike oil is the JASO FD certification. From numerous oil threads alot of them came down to JASO FD.

One other trick I got from a builder is , on teardown inspect the oil puddle in the bottom of the case. You should have a 1/2" to 3/4" band of oil in the bottom of the case from what drips off the cylinder , case , & crank. Dave mentioned this as well

I "think" people have a hard time grasping modern technology. It's like 30 years ago & heads not having hardened valve seats. Valves would wear into the head & the head material would burn away. Now with more study in metallurgy you have a better use of ideal materials that will run 200,000 miles & show minimal wear. I have this problem myself when I hear of guys running 50:1 & 70:1. NO, NO you cant do that, but I know guys who "get away" with it. It really cant be "getting away" with it, the chemists must be developing better blends, how else can you explain it. Think of this 20:1 1970's & motor oil , 32:1 mid 80's & up with outboard oil. The manufacturer's had to give a mix ratio of the worst possible oil of the time for a safety margin, like they do with the jetting. "Now" you really have to consider the quality of what oil your using.

"Recreationaly" If your using extra spoogey marine follow what they did then 32:1, if you step up to JASO FD 40:1 ?, or if your running all out $20 a quart stuff 50:1 up to 70:1. Just my best guess , dont to me if you burn it up

[USMC 500]

NOT MAXIMA SUPER M!!!.......just locked up a motor on it and from what I hear I'm not the first.  Motul 800 from now on!!

[Motorrad]

Spooge tells you where your at quite a bit, depending how much your cleaning / revving it out, you'll see it in extra oil dripping all over the back of your bike . You may want to adjust the ratio if your going to the dunes of if your going to be in the deep woods for the day. My experience anyway

Wrong.   (unless I missread this)..  and I mean this in a nice, constructive discussion way.. not a A-hole Your "wrong" way..

A properly jetted bike shouldnt spooge, be it idle all day long, or wide open all day long.     spooge tells you nothing more than your jetting is wrong.   (was no spooge on my bike this weekend, and Im sure the boys can attest to how it ran)   If you try to get rid of the spooge by changing your oil ratio... your going about it all wrong... (and a dangerous way to go)   Pick a ratio, AND OIL and jet to it. (as oils are differant viscositys, and just changing from 40:1 of one oil to 40:1 of another brand will throw your jetting off)

Changing your ratio depending on where your riding is a no no...  Unless you change your jetting at the same time. Have seen many guys lock a motor doing that at the dunes.    they figure.   "I normaly run 40:1 for desert,   Im goign to the dunes so Ill run 28:1, as I need more oil to protect the bike"   well, they dont re-jet.   and by adding that extra oil, they just LEANED the bike out,   which is the wrong way to go for high load, High RPM dunes.      PLUS.. there is more oil in the mix, which burns HOTTER than gasoline.     just compounding the problem...


NOW.  if you have bikes dedicated to one type of riding, yes you can run differant ratios in differant bikes (because they are jetted for that ratio)...     for example, I used to run 70:1 in my trials bike..      and ran 32:1 in my air cooled husky's.             If I put the 32:1 mix in my trials bike,  it would run HOT, and ping to death.   and be LEAN LEAN..   (ask me how I know...    I mixed up my cans one day)


anyone PLEASE feel free to correct me if im wrong...


.


and the JADO certs ect,   are for the companys that decided to shell out the money to the "system" for the cert.   some of the best oils I have run (4 stroke, and 2)   have no certs... as they refuse to pay the $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$  to get a stupid 4 letter thing on their bottle)




the reason they didnt run hardened seats, is there was GOOD gasoline...    that made it so they didnt.    LEAD BABY.  

[81cr450]

No offense taken
 extra / unburned oil  will be present as spooge correct? You could lean it out more to burn it more up , but my opinion is generally your running more oil than actually needed in the 20:1 - 32:1 range

I realize that oil takes the place of some fuel when mixed, so yes of course you have to recalculate jetting for different mix ratios, but, oil mix ratio needed is directly correlated to rpm, so if your not winding it out on long desert straights for hours on end the extra oil will create spooge, so in the tight woods you would want less oil when your not "blowing it out" .

Sorry correct jetting was assumed my thoughts were oil related. I ride in enough different terrain that I would feel it worth while to adjust the mix "& jetting" to the type of riding

All the 3 headed fish & I digress "the reason they didnt run hardened seats, is there was GOOD gasoline..."
With the old lead the newer nitrided valves, think black toyota valves & the inserted seats would still be better even with the "good gas"

I am an Ahole though, I'm in Ahole's anon if that helps 

[Motorrad]

, oil mix ratio needed is directly correlated to rpm, so if your not winding it out on long desert straights for hours on end the extra oil will

Piston velocitys. are often over looked...        can have a lower RPM motor that has higher Piston velocitys than another smaller motor    hint hint.   K5           

[motopunk]

NOT MAXIMA SUPER M!!!.......just locked up a motor on it and from what I hear I'm not the first.  Motul 800 from now on!!

in my opinion, maxima makes only relative usable fork oil ...

motul only for me, because i have only the best experiences with it since i used it the first time. 
 for engines on this high performance level use only the best oil you can get..