V-Force vs. Rad Valve

[hughes]

I would like more low to mid range punch. Which system is best V-Force or Rad Vavle. Does the reed block spacers really work and do they work  with these aftermarket reed blocks. 87 KX500.

[Paul]

V-Force with low tension setting and a Moose reed spacer, get ready for the grunt-a-pot-a-most

Oh yeah, Rick says "get a flywheel weight"

[Rowdy-Yates]

Paul what about a 1991 KX125 That year was not known for its Low range? Probably works across the board. Minus the fly wheel weight not sure what that would do to a 125???

[gowen]

Rowdy, are you looking for low-end? A Rad Valve is more what a 125 needs, as it helps boost the top-range. When I purchased my cr125 it had a V-Force and it ran great. Gave it a little low. But nothing to speak of, anyway, ended up robbing alot of top-end power. So, I replaced it with a rad valve. Couldn't be more happy. Much much more power in the top-range. Lost a little low, but it's a 125. I'd recommend a 250 if you are looking for a bike to grunt around on.

[crazyryan]

I run a spacer, rad valve, lectron 44mm carb and K&N filter that has a angled boot. Covered with a outerwear of course.  Everything fits great with no mods needed. Hold On!

[reknelb]

Which ever you decide on, make sure its what you want. I bought a RAD valve for my cr250. I ended up parting the bike out after only about 2 hours of use on the RAD valve. I cannot get rid of the thing. I've offered it up for half price on evil bay and havent been able to get rid of it. It even fits 86-98 years cr250's. I figured I would easily get $100 for it. I'm going to end up letting it go for probly 50 bucks ($159.00 new)

[GDubb]

I'm thinkin that a friend of mine had the same problem on ebay with a brand new, never used, still in the box rad valve set-up for his 86 Honda 250R. If I remember correctly, it didnt even sell.