'09 500AF build

[JimmyOberg]

Amazing build!

I've done the plastic conversion, you need a 2012 och later airbox.
It fits perfect in the 2009-2011 subframe!

The shrouds can be modified to fit OK, but it looks a bit wierd since the 2012 fuel tank is not as wide as the 2009-2011 tank.

[Foxx4Beaver]

FEAR the footpeg! ...d**n Mako shark's teeth aren't even that vicious.

[sandblaster]

That foot peg makes sharks jealous 

[jBernard]

just about have to wrap a towel around that thing in the garage, just wants to take your calf off walking by it! haha.
heres a better picture

[Foxx4Beaver]

just about have to wrap a towel around that thing in the garage, just wants to take your calf off walking by it! haha.
heres a better picture

That foot peg makes sharks jealous  

yeah, those things just scream pure evil!....you won't have any issues with your feet sliding off those....though your boot soles will hate you

[jBernard]

Amazing build!

I've done the plastic conversion, you need a 2012 och later airbox.
It fits perfect in the 2009-2011 subframe!

The shrouds can be modified to fit OK, but it looks a bit wierd since the 2012 fuel tank is not as wide as the 2009-2011 tank.

thank you for the info on the airbox. saves me lot of research time!

planning on building a CF tank, and i'll model the look from a CRF tank (lot of tank showing vs shroud overlapping tank). then i'll re-make the shrouds as well in CF and alter that top piece to fit in perfect to the tank.

[jBernard]

no turning back now on the hydraulic clutch.

able to get some bridgeport help and shaved the whole manual clutch area clean off. left about .075" on the wall thickness before it gets into the bearing.
since the clutch pushrod pressure point is on a ball bearing/diaphragm on the rekluse hydraulic side, position of the adapter inline with the pushrod needs to be pretty spot on.

buddy made this little bronze puck to center-locate my adapter for me, so I can tack weld it, then pop it out, and everything be perfectly inline, no guessing. pretty smart if i say so myself  

possibility of being able to get to the welder tomorrow, will see if they can fit me in.

will weld the adapter on, then shave off the top to get as much clearance as i can. The thickness needs to be only about .250" , and it's .500" now. this will also let me square it back up to make sure the welding didnt heat distort and warp the face, thus leaking oil later possibly.

[dave916]

That look fairly awkard to weld especially on the rear due to the steel insert for the bearing
then again i am not a welder
It also looks like the hyd cylinder going to be very close to the chain when finished?

good luck i would love to have a proper hyd clutch  on my build

[umberto]

Amazing build!

I've done the plastic conversion, you need a 2012 och later airbox.
It fits perfect in the 2009-2011 subframe!

The shrouds can be modified to fit OK, but it looks a bit wierd since the 2012 fuel tank is not as wide as the 2009-2011 tank.

thank you for the info on the airbox. saves me lot of research time!

planning on building a CF tank, and i'll model the look from a CRF tank (lot of tank showing vs shroud overlapping tank). then i'll re-make the shrouds as well in CF and alter that top piece to fit in perfect to the tank.

I love how casually you say that.  I'm just going to redo everything in carbon fiber, no big deal.  I'd be happy to make a blob in cf, much less a tank and shrouds.  . Please post pics, cf really fascinates me.

[JimmyOberg]

Jbernard, Is it possible to get in contact with you thru e-mail?

Regards, Jimmy

[umberto]

Just click on the mail icon under his name.  It will allow you to send a private message to him via e-mail.

[jBernard]

Well figure I'd post an update, of sorts....

Finally able to get down to my welder and we were able to get that adapter bracket welded on with not much issues.
a couple spots had some of the porosity of the cast aluminum causing issues, but not to bad.
I'll hopefully get this done within the week, all that needs to happen is chop about .100" off the adapter, drill and tap the little M6 bolts, and then get a carbide burr and smooth out the welds to make it look stock.






now for the bad news. real bad.
when i mocked up the engine mounts and got them welded into place, i didnt have a long engine thru-bolt (need something like a 160mm M10, so i used 4 short M10 bolts (top and bottom shock mount bolts) to mockup with. i stuck 1 in each mount and into the engine. But of course being short it only went in the engine cases about a half an inch. really stupid for me to do this.
what i should have done was got the proper bolt to make sure there were no issues, and everything was perfectly square.

now i present to you what happens when you dont think things thru....



yep, that sucks.
it didnt help that when the tubing was bent it didnt make it perfectly square. the cavitation of the tubing made it so the engine mount 'shelf' was able to not sit on the rail square. so even if its off a half of a degree, 5" down the bolt its off .100"

2 options now:
1. carefully grind off the engine mounts, reposition them and try to reweld
2. chop everything below the yoke i made out (rails and engine mounts) and re-do it correctly

going with option 2. i never liked how the tubing was cavitated from the bending process. and i should have done a radiused tubing to begin with for stress relief.

but here's the upside. will be making the rails cnc'd out of solid billet, with pocket weight reliefs on the inside(hidden, towards engine) like i did on my yoke.

by doing this i'm going to not have to worry about getting it heat treated later, and having any kind of stress fracture. it will be super strong.

oh and other great news. guy that turned the threads on my inconel 718 studs messed the thread pitch up now they are all scrap! will be re-making those as well.

1 step forward, 2 steps back. just when i started to have something that looks like a bike going.
dont worry, i'll keep motivated and it will be better than before for SURE.

taylor

[kxpegger]

Well figure I'd post an update, of sorts....

Finally able to get down to my welder and we were able to get that adapter bracket welded on with not much issues.
a couple spots had some of the porosity of the cast aluminum causing issues, but not to bad.
I'll hopefully get this done within the week, all that needs to happen is chop about .100" off the adapter, drill and tap the little M6 bolts, and then get a carbide burr and smooth out the welds to make it look stock.






now for the bad news. real bad.
when i mocked up the engine mounts and got them welded into place, i didnt have a long engine thru-bolt (need something like a 160mm M10, so i used 4 short M10 bolts (top and bottom shock mount bolts) to mockup with. i stuck 1 in each mount and into the engine. But of course being short it only went in the engine cases about a half an inch. really stupid for me to do this.
what i should have done was got the proper bolt to make sure there were no issues, and everything was perfectly square.

now i present to you what happens when you dont think things thru....



yep, that sucks.
it didnt help that when the tubing was bent it didnt make it perfectly square. the cavitation of the tubing made it so the engine mount 'shelf' was able to not sit on the rail square. so even if its off a half of a degree, 5" down the bolt its off .100"

2 options now:
1. carefully grind off the engine mounts, reposition them and try to reweld
2. chop everything below the yoke i made out (rails and engine mounts) and re-do it correctly

going with option 2. i never liked how the tubing was cavitated from the bending process. and i should have done a radiused tubing to begin with for stress relief.

but here's the upside. will be making the rails cnc'd out of solid billet, with pocket weight reliefs on the inside(hidden, towards engine) like i did on my yoke.

by doing this i'm going to not have to worry about getting it heat treated later, and having any kind of stress fracture. it will be super strong.

oh and other great news. guy that turned the threads on my inconel 718 studs messed the thread pitch up now they are all scrap! will be re-making those as well.

1 step forward, 2 steps back. just when i started to have something that looks like a bike going.
dont worry, i'll keep motivated and it will be better than before for SURE.

taylor

What about align boring and using some stainless or whatever bushings. Might be easier than starting all over again?

[jBernard]

thought about that. but pretty much impossible to get the frame square on something like a vertical mill where i could drill thru both at the same time.
anything else like a hand drill or bore, then i dont see it being able to be more accurate by hand.
other thing is that once they had been bored out (and i'd have to bore the cases as well, kinda ghetto) that the faces that mate to the nut and bolt head wouldnt be flat. holes would be straight and the material not at a perfect 90.
no big deal. the frame was one of the first fab things i did. never was super happy, knew that it could be done better. so i'll have the chance now.
+ i didnt want to pay 350$ for heat treating either.

[SS109]

Bummer. Well, it's probably for the best anyway.

+ i didnt want to pay 350$ for heat treating either.

$350... ouch! Who was that through?