not shifting

[littlewing78]

I recently rebuilt the topend of a 99 Kx 250.  The piston has exploded so I split the cases to get it all cleaned out.  Now that I have it back together it's not shifting through all the gears.  I dont know what gears are working but it will only shift three times.  I am guessing its 3,4, and 5 that work because I don't seem to be getting neutral. The tiny spring on the shift mechanism just behind the return spring was broken.  But even fixing that didn't help.  I am worried that something got goofed up on the transmission side when I had the cases split.  I am worried that I am going to have to split the cases again.  Any Ideas on what to start looking for?  Thanks.

[DoldGuy]

How did you reassemble? Did you use a torque wrench? Shift Drum star wheel?

[littlewing78]

I didn't take any of the transmission out.  I split the cases just to get all the bits of piston cleaned out around the crank bearings. I think a shift fork may have slipped out of place.

[Hillclimb#42]

I have a yz125 that had a clutch fiber disentegrate. Little chunks all over in it. I pulled off the cover and removed tiny pieces from around the clutch area, until I could find no more. Problem was that a piece found its way into the transmission. It wedged itself between the case and gears. I could not get the bike to shift, almost impossible to get into neutral, and it would get stuck in third. I bought shift forks and drum, expecting the worst, but it was just the clutch fiber chunks holding the gears from moving. I couldn't be sure what was going on until we split the cases and examined it, but that was the problem for me.

[snoopjonnyjon]

I once mixed up two shift forks on my 500. I could shift 1-2, but nothing else. I had to split the cases again to get it right.

[littlewing78]

The clutch plates are good.  The fork thing I'm not so sure of.  I really don't want to split the cases again but I think I have to.  I just got the bike all back together.

[littlewing78]

Turns out it was the ID 10 T operator.  The shifting works fine. All i needed to do was get the engine to turn over a bit to get it to shift.  unfortunately I didn't figure that out until after I had pulled it off the bike. At least I hadn't split the cases yet.

Put it all back together and it started right up with three kicks.  I am very happy with it since I picked it up seized for $360.

Now the issue is the carb.  It runs great with choke pulled.  When I push it back in it idles fine, but as soon as I give it any gas it bogs way down and dies right away.  Any suggestions?

[sandblaster]

If you haven't already, pull the carb off the bike, open it up, remove the jets, floats, float valve ect, and CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN!
Look down the center of each jet and make sure there are no obstructions.
Let us know what you find.

[littlewing78]

I cleaned it a little when I had it apart but not very thoroughly.  It hadn't been ran for quite a while.  I'll give a real good cleaning.

[littlewing78]

Once again I have proven that I am a moron.  Took the carb off and cleaned it up. Took it out for a ride and it started doing the same thing.  Looked down and holy crap the gas is shut off.  Had to laugh at myself.
Now I get to take the carb apart again because when the bike sits at even the slightest angle gas pours out of the overflow tubes.  We'll see what I did wrong this time.  I love working on bikes, but I kind of suck at it.

[Friar-Tuck]

Float level/height


Here's one explanation  http://justkdx.dirtrider.net/floatlevel.html

There's an excellent one on All things Moto I will look for.  Here ya go:
 http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-15/how-set-your-motorcycle-carburetor-float-level-more-commentary-13608/
 
Also found a nifty chart with some carb float heights : http://www.carbparts.com/keihin/needles_tuning/jetting_your_carb.htm

 Tuck\o/

[sandblaster]

Thanks Tuck.
I was going to suggest that next but you beat me to it