Author Topic: headseal  (Read 2375 times)

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Offline doordie

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headseal
« on: September 23, 2004, 06:30:11 AM »
Here is a pic of my race cylinder and the headseal.
Will not show the porting,though!!! :lol:  :lol:  :lol:
(Still a bad pic) :oops:

//doordie
Iceroad champion 2006,still 2007,even 2008 without a single race!

Offline doordie

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more seals
« Reply #1 on: September 23, 2004, 06:47:10 AM »
You can order different  headseals with different thickness!
Make it easy to adjust the squishclearance.

//doordie
Iceroad champion 2006,still 2007,even 2008 without a single race!

mikesmith

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headseal
« Reply #2 on: September 23, 2004, 07:43:16 AM »
I was always going to try it but never did,how differnt does it make the bike run between the two?

Offline doordie

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headseal
« Reply #3 on: September 23, 2004, 12:24:18 PM »
Hi mikesmith!

Just want to tell you all that you have some options when you want to setup the bike to run it?s best.
If you setup the right squishclearance you make the bike use more of the mixed air/fuel instead of waste it.
Reduce all "pinging"  when there no endgases to ignite to soon in the 2 stroke-cycle.
A all win doing this "mods". :wink:
 
//doordie
Iceroad champion 2006,still 2007,even 2008 without a single race!

Offline KXcam22

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headseal
« Reply #4 on: September 24, 2004, 04:43:06 PM »
Doordie,
  Are those really Kawasaki option head gaskets?  Cool! What ranges do they come in?  I am very interested for my rebuild this winter.  The squish clearance makes such a noticable difference in how the bike runs.  I am always amazed a how many bikes come with waay too large of a squish clearance.  In my view, the squish should be as low as reasonable with the compression ratio set by the head volume, but they never seem to get built that way.  Often the squish is quite large and, as Doordie says, fuel/air is wasted on each stroke.   Ideally the squish should be nearly zero, but since the rod grows with heat and rpm it has to have some clearance, around .025" for small up to .045 for large engines (feel free to correct me if I'm way off on the numbers - going from memory (old Jennings book memory)).   For example my sons PW50 had .080" when it ought to be about .025".  After milling I ended up with about .030" but the bike run overall much better.  I once had a 2-stroke twin 350cc road race bike that had .200". Yuk!  Following a tuning recipe from the UK, I tossed the head gasket and milled .100" off the head, putting the quish at around .030". What a big difference it made!  Doordie, what squish clearance do you recommend for the KX and what do you normally find set them at from the factory. Thanks. Cam.

Offline doordie

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headseal
« Reply #5 on: September 25, 2004, 12:41:46 AM »
Kxcam22!

My knowledge about the squishclearance for big twostrokes is minimum 1,3mm with a new rebuild engine who is checked often.If you don?t rebuilt so often set it for about 1,5-1,6mm and you have a "safe"clearance.
But always measure it after thighten head/cylinder/engine and not only with calculate figures. :wink:
It?s many different squishclearance from stock but always to much. :lol:

I come back later with info about different thickness of gaskets.

Folke,can you help me out there?

//doordie
Iceroad champion 2006,still 2007,even 2008 without a single race!

Folke

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headseal
« Reply #6 on: September 27, 2004, 11:46:57 PM »
Quote from: doordie
Kxcam22!

My knowledge about the squishclearance for big twostrokes is minimum 1,3mm with a new rebuild engine who is checked often.If you don?t rebuilt so often set it for about 1,5-1,6mm and you have a "safe"clearance.
But always measure it after thighten head/cylinder/engine and not only with calculate figures. :wink:
It?s many different squishclearance from stock but always to much. :lol:

I come back later with info about different thickness of gaskets.

Folke,can you help me out there?


Ok i will help you
Gasket-head with partno.and thicknes.
11004-1276 T=1.0
11004-1209 T=0.4 (Std.)
11004-1187 T=0.2

//doordie