lengthening the clutch arm

[Rick]

I always use stock cable, and the $100 fly clutch lever with ball bearings on the adjuster and bearings in the lever.  My clutch pull rivals the KX125.  Super easy, and no clutch arm work.

Rick

[KXcam22]

Scott,
  I probably wasn't very clear in my explanation.  I haven't done the 10mm myself, only read about it as a recommended mod in magazines.  I did 5mm, was shooting for 8mm but carried away with the file.  I think there is probably lots of room for 10mm.  For extra ease use Ricks fly perch and the 10MM. Cam.

[gwcrim]

I thought I'd bump this thread up again because I've been thinking.

Follow along:

The clutch drags.  It doesn't seem to want to disengage fully.  (This is a common problem on dirt bikes to a degree right?)

If it doesn't like to disengage fully, that means that you need more action on the lever at the engine.  

If you lengthen the arm at the engine, you'll have more leverage for a lighter pull.  But as a result, you'll have less action in the throw.

If you want to get more throw/action to promote full clutch disengagement, you'd actually want to shorten the lever at the engine.  Wouldn't you?

[KXcam22]

GWCRIM,
  That is exactly correct.  Mind you I haven't had a clutch that drags since the old Maico days.  It was a good excuse to use on the starting line though. Cam.

[Rick]

For those with dragging clutches, it is worth noting that if you still have the aluminum clutch plates, this could be the problem.  The aluminum plates wear quickly, and as they wear, the fiber plate will leave a ridge on the outside edge that will catch as you try and disengage the clutch.  (Hmmmm, not sure that was clear, but chew on it a while, it might sound better after reading it a few times   ).  As I have noted in other posts, I immediately replace the aluminum plates with steel plates, so have eliminated this as a problem.

Rick

[gwcrim]

My entire clutch, basket to springs to fibers to plates (steel) is only one year old.  And I doubt that it has 10 hours on it.

[littlewing78]

Can somebody post a picture of how to route the clutch cable and a picture of this lengthened arm?  I am having a hard time picturing it.  My clutch is very hard to pull in.  Thanks.

[2-Stroke Tom]

Here is picture of how to route the cable for the least amount of friction/resistance. Also, look at the next picture to see how to zip tie the cable to the frame. You do not want the zip tie here too tight, just enough from keeping the cable from moving around and use good zip ties. My method is a brand new OEM cable (Japanese quality at it's finest), the method of routing shown in my picture, and a good lever with a bearing in it such as ASV. I have done this and my lever feels no different than a stock KX250.

The final picture is Destry Abbott's 2004 KX500 with extended clutch arm. Kaw Rider is working on an arm like this and when it's available, I will give it a go since it never hurts to work smarter not harder!

[littlewing78]

Thanks Tom.  It seems like the metal tube on my clutch cable has a little bit tighter bend than yours does.  I'll have to see if I can take some out.

[2-Stroke Tom]

I just put some aluminum jaws in my vice and made the cable straighter. Just a little at a time, and it will be good to go.

[kaw rider]

here is the aluminum clutch arm.

[1989kawasaki]

how could i get one of those for my 250?

[sandblaster]

Thanks Kaw rider, you know I'll take one 

[kaw rider]

thanks sandblaster.

1989
If your clutch arm for your 250 is the same as the 500 then it will work.

[1989kawasaki]

thanks sandblaster.

1989
If your clutch arm for your 250 is the same as the 500 then it will work.

it looks the same but i dont know if it is the same